Author Topic: JTree Dec 2012  (Read 5383 times)

JC w KC redux

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JTree Dec 2012
« on: December 30, 2012, 04:03:01 PM »
KC and I had a blast at JTree.
It was our first time back on granitic rocks since last summer with Brad.
My resume of 4 all gear climbs on granite got more than tripled in a few days.
This was the first time I had to build all my own anchors.
I had practiced building anchors at ground level but hadn't ever actually put it into practice.
I got 4 onsights and one solo at Short Wall on day 1.
Toe Jam Express 5.4
Double Crack 5.4 – best route of the day
Donna T’s Route 5.5
Chockstone Chimney 4th Class – I probably would not do this one again unprotected and I told KC not to follow.
SOB 5.6 - KC said she got some good jams on this one.

Day 1 (12-23) was the anniversary of my first lead climb at Pinns.
Would I have preferred to be there for my anniversary?
Sure, but it was rained out - so the timing for JTree was just right.

We talked extensively with a free soloist from Austin TX  before and after SOB.
I think he soloed everything I led, except SOB.
There were some topropers at the crag and it was pretty busy.
Everyone we met was nice.

JC leads Double Crack 5.4





KC follows her first JTree climb - Toe Jam Express 5.4





JC on the exit move for Chockstone Chimney 4th class





Day 2 started out windy and cold.
KC and I sat in the car for about half an hour wondering if and when the wind would lessen.
Before long another couple arrived at the crag and we struck up a conversation while we geared up - with the wind howling. They were from Vegas and had recently gotten back into climbing.
We started on the Trough while they did B-3.
I thought the wind was going to blow us off the top!
Luckily as the day went on the wind eventually died down and the temps came up a bit.
The sun was a saving grace.
I got 4 onsights at Trashcan.

The Trough 5.0
B-3 5.3 – not sure why it doesn’t get a star and the other B’s do.
B-1 5.1*
B-2 5.3* - I thought a few of the moves up high on this one felt like about 5.5.

Anchor for B-3





We cleaned up and went to the JTree Saloon to have a beer with Elaina and Kurt and two of their friends.
Elaina was one of the guides for the girly gathering KC attended back in September at the New River Gorge.
 
On Christmas day KC woke up with a lot of pain in her left wrist – she couldn’t bend it sideways/down at all.
We went to Atlantis wall first using the 60 trad book and checked out Men with Cows Heads and Solar Technology.  Bummer was the sun had already passed and it was only about 9:30 and still very cold (probably low 40’s).
We decided to save these tasty climbs for warmer weather.
We could see the Aiguille de Joshua Tree in the distance.

We went to Intersection Rock next and hiked back to the Blob.
There was a couple finishing Beginner’s One and a free soloist downclimbing it.
KC was worried that she might not be able to get up the route, which would have meant a ton of work for me to set an anchor, clean and then 4th class back up to get the anchor gear.

We watched several free soloists ascend the route.
We took a look at Beginner’s Two and the upper part of the Bong - I was salivating over the Bong.
We decided it wouldn’t be a good idea to test Kat’s wrist on this crag, so we went back to Trashcan.

I got two more onsights at Trashcan.
Eschar 5.4*(Vogel) or 5.6(Gaines) - I'll go with 5.6.
Karpkwitz 5.6 – this climb should get at least one star in my book - it was a great climb to end on.
It took me forever to figure out the crux move but it was really cool because I was able to sew it up before I did.
I stepped up and back down repeatedly before I finally figured it out - good times!

On our last day in the park, KC's wrist was worse and quite swollen so we decided not to climb.
It was also cold, windy and very cloudy. We drove out to Ryan’s Peak trail and hiked to the summit.
The mountain appears to be a metamorphic roof pendant – mostly gneiss and some migmatite.
The views were AMAZING! and I don't think we could have picked a better hike.
After the hike we went to Hall of Horrors and walked around looking at the formations and climbs with the Gaines book.
For the rest of the day we used the 60 Trad book to hike out to Mental Physics.
The Wonderland of Rocks was excellent!
We got to see the Astro Domes on the way out to Lenticular Dome.
The temps were actually pleasant when we got out to Mental Physics.
We talked to a couple coming down the last part of the approach from the climb.
They said it was awesome.
Super fun day even though we didn’t climb.
Can't wait to go back!

Enjoying the view from Ryan Mountain


One wheel shy of normal

JC w KC redux

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Re: JTree Dec 2012
« Reply #1 on: December 30, 2012, 05:35:24 PM »
Our trip was pretty tame, but it was a significant step for me/us.
Trad is rad...nothin' like a rack and a crack :)
I'm sure the New Years crew will have some crazy stuff to add when they get back!
One wheel shy of normal

mungeclimber

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Re: JTree Dec 2012
« Reply #2 on: December 30, 2012, 10:55:11 PM »
Sleet on the way back home today. Fun time. Will post more later.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mungeclimber

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Re: JTree Dec 2012
« Reply #3 on: December 31, 2012, 09:51:15 PM »
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mungeclimber

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Re: JTree Dec 2012
« Reply #4 on: December 31, 2012, 09:52:27 PM »
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: JTree Dec 2012
« Reply #5 on: December 31, 2012, 10:05:29 PM »
I didn't take a camera; so no shots. But we had a great (but butt-cold) trip with lots of climbing and fun.

My favorite non-climbing moment was at dinner one night when Laura did an imitation of herself. I'd just taken a sip of water and I laughed so hard that I very nearly lost it out my nose. It took three full minutes before I was able to swallow.

And for some reason I enjoyed hanging with Tricia even more than I normally do. I realized how very fine things were in 2012 and how great they promise to be in 2013.

F4?

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Re: JTree Dec 2012
« Reply #6 on: December 31, 2012, 11:26:33 PM »
Nice, but back to the Pinnacles.

Ps, how is the bolt on double cross?
I'm not worthy.

F4?

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Re: JTree Dec 2012
« Reply #7 on: January 01, 2013, 12:47:53 AM »
1 more for the 1st of 13!
I'm not worthy.

JC w KC redux

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Re: JTree Dec 2012
« Reply #8 on: January 01, 2013, 08:25:10 AM »
Those shots are choice Rob.
Brad - Rob posted a few of you on facebook. Looks like you guys had fun.
I miss it and can't wait to go back.
We were already back on moss and choss yesterday.
One wheel shy of normal

mungeclimber

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Re: JTree Dec 2012
« Reply #9 on: January 01, 2013, 03:33:07 PM »
Gracias JC. I'd like to go back soon too.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

squiddo

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Re: JTree Dec 2012
« Reply #10 on: January 02, 2013, 10:41:01 AM »
good times indeed.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber