Author Topic: MLK?  (Read 20483 times)

Atomizer

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MLK?
« on: January 16, 2013, 10:03:15 PM »
So whats the story? Who is going where for what?

JC w KC redux

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Re: MLK?
« Reply #1 on: January 16, 2013, 10:52:17 PM »
Looks like I am going nowhere fast. I realized yesterday that with the holiday I have the next 6 days off.
Problem is - KC is going through her busiest time of the year at work and can't take any time off. Boo hoo.
Guess I should have been prowlin' on here for someone to go to JTree. I may have to go find and do all of Brad's tour routes I haven't done yet and then do the tour with them next November - or this summer when the days are long and it isn't Pinnacles season :)
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Gavin

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Re: MLK?
« Reply #2 on: January 17, 2013, 07:26:29 AM »
I'll be at the Pinns, climbing on the east side on Saturday then monitoring falcons in Bear Gulch over to the Yaks. On Sunday I'll unofficially see how falcons are responding to people while on the west side, and will plan to climb at Balconies with my wife Alacia. (We'll start off with Lava Falls and Shake & Bake, then see what else she'll be willing to belay me on!)

Atomizer

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Re: MLK?
« Reply #3 on: January 17, 2013, 08:33:53 AM »
JC, if you do head out to do some of the Pinnacles on The Tour, I would suggest having a short shoestring rope, if you don't already have one. I use a 30M 7.5mm for such occasions. It weighs nothing in the pack and is about the size of two softballs. I would say that for Little Flatiron you might want it. I either do a Dulfelsitz rappel or bring my really little black diamond ski mountaineering harness.

I would say that doing one half of the tour is an attainable goal. Do the first half! It's super fun and the Neglected Valley is amazing right now.

Gavin, as for Falcons, I did have something give me a pretty good warning. I never spotted it in my hasty travel, but I think I was on Frothy Flake and it was towards the southeast. I descended quickly to get below its perch. But it may have also been in the Crowley Towers.

F4?

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Re: MLK?
« Reply #4 on: January 17, 2013, 08:50:39 AM »
Sat would be nice....
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JC w KC redux

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Re: MLK?
« Reply #5 on: January 17, 2013, 08:50:39 AM »
JC, if you do head out to do some of the Pinnacles on The Tour, I would suggest having a short shoestring rope

Appreciate the suggestion Adam. I don't have one.
By the way - how would that help with Little Flatiron since there is no summit anchor listed?
Tie off to something below - a shrubbery perhaps? Ni!!
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Atomizer

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Re: MLK?
« Reply #6 on: January 17, 2013, 10:49:33 AM »
Not every anchor is listed in the book. I believe there was one up there. But you could tie something off then rap the other side.

mungeclimber

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Re: MLK?
« Reply #7 on: January 17, 2013, 11:17:17 AM »
I'll be at the Pinns, climbing on the east side on Saturday then monitoring falcons in Bear Gulch over to the Yaks. On Sunday I'll unofficially see how falcons are responding to people while on the west side, and will plan to climb at Balconies with my wife Alacia. (We'll start off with Lava Falls and Shake & Bake, then see what else she'll be willing to belay me on!)

If she won't belay you, I will. So want to get LF.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

JC w KC redux

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Re: MLK?
« Reply #8 on: January 17, 2013, 11:23:47 AM »
Not every anchor is listed in the book. I believe there was one up there. But you could tie something off then rap the other side.

10-4. Another example is the Three Bears - Papa and Mama Bear list nothing but they both have two bolt anchors with chains. I'll add it to the corrections sticky.
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Gavin

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Re: MLK?
« Reply #9 on: January 17, 2013, 06:54:57 PM »
Gavin, as for Falcons, I did have something give me a pretty good warning. I never spotted it in my hasty travel, but I think I was on Frothy Flake and it was towards the southeast. I descended quickly to get below its perch. But it may have also been in the Crowley Towers.

Adam, thanks for the heads-up... There is a territorial peregrine falcon pair near Frothy Flake (and extending south past H&L Dome) and a prairie falcon pair at Crowley Towers... I would guess you heard them both. They are starting to get more territorial... Climbing closures right after MLK Day (starting on the 22nd) should be soon enough for them.

Atomizer

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Re: MLK?
« Reply #10 on: January 17, 2013, 08:20:55 PM »
Today we saw some Falcons swooping repeatedly into a cool hole/perch on the upper left of the main Balconies Wall above and left of Peregrine. It was a beautiful day to do a painting of The Balconies. The Hawks, Falcons, and Condors seemed to be having a great time in the very welcome warm sun.

Atomizer

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Re: MLK?
« Reply #11 on: January 17, 2013, 08:22:29 PM »
And how do you tell the difference between Peregrines and Prairie Falcons? Is it tail shape or size?

Gavin

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Re: MLK?
« Reply #12 on: January 18, 2013, 07:39:15 AM »
Adam, I think I know the cliff cavity you're referring to at Balconies - a prairie falcon pair has often used that site in past years for nesting (including last year). I was out monitoring South Balconies a week or two ago and a prairie falcon pair is definitely in the area again.

As for the difference between prairie and peregrine falcons: they are pretty much identical in terms of tail shape and size. The main differences are in coloration and plumage. Prairie falcons are brownish on the backs and crowns, and have whitish chests / undersides with some dark spotting on the chests that is not usually visible in flight. They have facial striping that looks a bit like a mustache. Viewed from below in flight, they look whitish, but with distinctive dark "armpits" or auxillaries.

Peregrine falcons look steely gray on the backs, and have distinctive blackish hoods on their heads. Viewed from below in flight, they look grayish due to consistent banding across body and wings, with a whitish patch of throat feathers sometimes visible as well.

Both species are cliff-cavity nesters and highly territorial. They both have very similar wailing and "kekking" alarm calls. At Pinnacles, the only confirmed peregrine falcon pair is at the Tuff Dome / Frothy Flake area, though there may be a peregrine pair moving in near Yaks as well. Otherwise, nesting falcons at the park - at High Peaks, Chaos Crag, Resurrection Wall, Pig Canyon, etc. - are prairie falcons.

Hope those details aren't too long-winded. Thanks for the observations!

Gavin

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Re: MLK?
« Reply #13 on: January 18, 2013, 07:43:02 AM »
If she won't belay you, I will. So want to get LF.

Hmm... Munge, I'm pretty sure Alacia wants to climb, but you're welcome to join us if you can make it down (and if folks aren't already on Lava Falls). We'll try to get to the base of the climb around 8:30 or 9:00, I reckon.

kylequeener

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Re: MLK?
« Reply #14 on: January 18, 2013, 09:54:45 AM »
There should be some people out form the Monterey area. There has been talk about Balconies routes. Unfortunately for me, I'll be riding a desk and strapping climbing holds to bare walls this weekend...

When do the closures actually go into effect? I would really like to get the third pitch of Conduit done and free Peregrine. I always forget about closures and then rush to get things done last minute...

mungeclimber

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Re: MLK?
« Reply #15 on: January 18, 2013, 10:08:17 AM »
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Gavin

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Re: MLK?
« Reply #16 on: January 18, 2013, 11:02:00 AM »
Kyle, as Munge posted with the link, closures go into effect in 4 days, on January 22nd, the day after MLK Day. So if you can't get out to the Balconies this weekend, you'll be out of luck until later in the year!

F4?

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Re: MLK?
« Reply #17 on: January 18, 2013, 01:29:10 PM »
Don't worry, Peregrine is cleaning up with all of the traffic. By next opening in August....all the good holds will be chalked.

I'm in the same boat..oh well.
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kylequeener

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Re: MLK?
« Reply #18 on: January 18, 2013, 01:46:45 PM »
Kyle, as Munge posted with the link, closures go into effect in 4 days, on January 22nd, the day after MLK Day. So if you can't get out to the Balconies this weekend, you'll be out of luck until later in the year!

Yes!!!

I can get out on Monday and send the gnar before it's too late.

Psyched!

Gavin

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Re: MLK?
« Reply #19 on: January 18, 2013, 04:44:45 PM »
Yes!!!

I can get out on Monday and send the gnar before it's too late.

Psyched!

Sounds good. Keep in mind that there is a falcon pair in the area... The birds shouldn't be too aggressive at this point in the season, but if they start wailing and diving at you, it would be worth backing off the climb!