Figured I should add some more that I like and others I haven't climbed but have heard good things about firsthand by those that have climbed them.
I Like:
Green Phantom Rock: less than 2 minutes from the parking lot, TR from bolts, Climb in morning or afternoon, midday is hot, go on weekdays because the crag is gangroped by guides (myself included during the summer) on the weekends.
Phantom Staircase 5.8-5.10a TR 1P - Really fun friction climb of good length left is easier, middle is fun, right is weird.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/phantom-staircase-left/105836195Roccocater and Yellowjacket both 5.10 sport but easy to TR from bolts at the top. Not worth it on their own but if you're there for Staircase, it's worth moving over to them.
Everything else is meh or too short.
Snowshed Wall:
Telegraph Crack 5.8 Trad 1P - Very Nice. Some vertical and wide moves, easy for 5.8 leader, hard for the 5'6" new leader who led it.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/telegraph-crack/106888893Moles Corner 5.8 trad 1P - Short fun 5star crux section then wandering 1star gully climbing to top.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/moles-corner/106906236Heard Good Things About:
School House Rock
Mary's Crack trad 5.8 2P long - route finding can be a problem I'm told but otherwise is a mellow and fun climb to gain an appreciable altitude. My friend solos it when he has free time.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/marys-crack/106157283Grouse Slab
Insidious Crack 5.6 trad 1P 150' - Watched my new leader friends lead this. They did fine, seems to protect well, looks straightforward and fun.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/insidious-crack/105735155Black Wall
One Hand Clapping 5.9 trad 4P - My friend looooves this route. Can't speak about the protection of difficulty because he's a notorious sandbagger. Check on bird closures for upper pitches to lizard ledge
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/one-hand-clapping/105736426I Hate:
Stay away from Peanut Gallery. Blech.