Author Topic: Obviously I don't know how to read a guidebook!  (Read 4832 times)

JC w KC redux

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Obviously I don't know how to read a guidebook!
« on: April 22, 2013, 10:53:18 AM »
The downclimb is shown on the N side topo on page 92. It is listed as "approach to Third Sister" - third class. I think it would be good to include - scramble off/downclimb the "approach to Third Sister" (shown on N side topo) - third class - in the route descriptions. This is as steep or steeper than any 3rd class I've been on at Pinns (Possibility Pinnacle and the Regular Route on Beak Peak come to mind). We haven't ever looked at or used the tree to step across the gully as described in the paragraph below Third Sister on page 95. There are two paths shown on the topo and we evidently use the lower path by walking up the gully and then making a few moves up a short steep face on big holds and excellent rock - which some folks might say is 5th class (Bruce says 5.0).

I just "discovered" something as a result of the discussion over the new routes on the Sisters. I had always looked at the N Side topo gully where route 236 is shown as 3rd class - since that's what it says on the section above. Bruce kept referring to the 5.0 downclimb and it just wasn't registering. I always thought that short little steep section up onto the shoulder seemed awfully hard for 3rd class. I reexamined the description for 236 and the topo and realized that I had been reading it wrong all this time. I just saw the two dashed paths on the topo with the words 3rd class. Now I see that the lower path curving right with an arrow is actually route 236 5.0 R - DUH! No wonder KC wanted a belay the first time we did it about a year ago. That is actually the only way we have ever gone up there - initially to do the North Rib and West Face on 4th Sister. I guess the fact that it is only two or maybe 3 moves - it just didn't register in my reptilian brain as a route! Good news? Now I have another onsight to add to my list. Either no one else realized what I was talking about earlier in the thread or you were all just too busy laughing!
One wheel shy of "normal"

mungeclimber

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Re: Obviously I don't know how to read a guidebook!
« Reply #1 on: April 22, 2013, 01:01:25 PM »
Even when dry I don't particularly like the fall potential on the downclimb I did (climber's left). But maybe I'm misreading the topo too.

To climber's right from the top of the slab with the new lines is a newish bolt (I believe that's the rebolted line) that comes up from the chimney between 2 and 3.

The other line onto 2, goes south thru the notch, then around to the west side of 2.


Least that's how I read those.

On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

JC w KC redux

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Re: Obviously I don't know how to read a guidebook!
« Reply #2 on: April 22, 2013, 07:16:07 PM »
Even when dry I don't particularly like the fall potential on the downclimb I did (climber's left). But maybe I'm misreading the topo too.
To climber's right from the top of the slab with the new lines is a newish bolt (I believe that's the rebolted line) that comes up from the chimney between 2 and 3.
The other line onto 2, goes south thru the notch, then around to the west side of 2.
Least that's how I read those.

236 does have a nasty potential since you'd continue to slide down the gully if you fell down the short cliff(Brad calls it an obvious weakness). It's only about 10 or 12 feet of steep, because I can stretch down twice and be just short of touching down in the gully.

I believe the bolt at climber's right at the top of the slab you're referring to is the face portion of 235 (we did it last weekend). It is shown as 2 bolts on the topo close together but one is described as hangerless in the text and I didn't see that one when we did the route. It's a few class 5 moves from the top of the chimney up and across the face to that bolt and then it "goes" at about 3rd class for the rest of the unprotected traverse.

I haven't checked out that other line you're describing - appreciate the feedback though.
One wheel shy of "normal"