We had a great west side adventure yesterday.
I have been longing to do Old Original since I first saw the Mighty Machete.
I made a deal with KC that we would climb up the descent and learn that portion so there would be no surprises on the way down after a long day on Double O.
I figured if we were going to make the effort up the descent - we should climb Fish Breath Arete. KC and I have looked at it from the Old Pinnacles Trail and in the guidebook - her original reaction was "No Way!"
Long story short - KC has come a long way over the last year with regard to approaches, adventure/exploring and scrambling.
We started through the caves and after some initial confusion about exactly where to go up and over the ceiling boulders - we emerged from the caves, crossed the metal gangway and decided to head up the grassy slope. I had failed to copy the correct text for the Fish Breath approach and we didn't have the guidebook - just a few scanned pages. We followed the steep slope up to the base of a large formation and got confused again. I told KC to stay put while I worked my way down and across to see if I could figure out how to get us in the gully. I saw a big pine tree with a sling and a leaver biner, but I also started encountering outrageous amounts of poison oak. I headed back up to KC and we decided to follow along the base of the large formation. We carefully picked our way through and eventually made it into the gully. After some 4th class moves up through a boulder jumble, things became clearer and before long we were at the 4th class ledge. We roped up and I slung a couple shrubs/trees and a big knob to protect myself and KC across the ledge. I found the ledge to be pretty easy to cross but one false move and you're gone. We discussed before and after and agreed it just wasn't worth taking the chance. Once I was safely across and in the meadow, I saw a tree with two slings, 2 cords and a couple of leaver biners - which I assume is the tree people use to make the 2 rope rappel. I used that as my anchor for KC to come across.
Looking up at the arête I was damn intimidated but I was also determined.
We had a bit of shade at the base but then the climb was in full sun and it was getting hot. Now I rarely use chalk - but with the heat - today would be an exception. I dipped twice on the first pitch and that was it - once getting started and once before the groove. I knew that with only 10 bolts in 195 feet this would probably be pretty scary. Better have your head right for this one. I also knew the route got no stars and that usually means mediocre or downright nasty rock quality.
For me the crux was committing to and climbing through the groove.
JC way up (above the 6th bolt), stemmed out, committed and feelin' groovy...
First pitch done and KC followed clean and solid.
Someone had obviously led this pitch and then rapped - leaving tied runners and a single aluminum rap ring.
I left it intact and shook my head.
The end of my left big toe had been screaming on the first pitch, so I changed into my approach shoes before belaying KC up. Looking up at p2 I decided to leave them on. 4 bolts in 130 feet on what Brad describes as easy 5th class.
The part that "makes it" - as Brad says in the guidebook - the exposure and position.
I only wish I had some pics of us climbing this thing from the trail!
JC after the 2nd bolt on p2
The other thing that I really enjoyed was being able to see KC at the p1 belay from the p2 belay.
It was getting pretty toasty and I was feeling tired. I looked up at p3 and thought to myself - that shit is crazy!
To me it looked like a large version of the love child of Baby Bear & the 4th Sister's North Rib.
I seriously considered walking off to the left, but I knew I had to at least take a closer look at this thing.
When KC asked me the best way to rig her belay and I proceeded to show her - I said - "Okay - now that I did that - I HAVE TO climb this thing"
When I stepped up to the base it actually didn't look that bad. As I started up I could see the bolt way up there (35 feet) and a big patch of spider or cobwebs surrounding it. I stopped and took a pic.
After clipping that lonely bolt and moving up further, I quickly realized that KC would be just as exposed following this as I was leading it. I called down to let her know. I proceeded to take the wild ride over the "ride em cowboy" section and along the ridge to the belay. I did find a couple slingable features along the top to protect myself and my precious pard.
I could see a bunch of folks climbing on the Flumes far below.
I called to them but I doubt they could hear me.
JC on pitch 3
The only bummer about p3 was there was no way to get pics! I was really glad I did it afterwards - talk about exposure!
I overlooked the "obvious bolt w/rappel ring" and accidentally downclimbed and then climbed back up just to the right of pitch 6 of OO. When I got back up between the bumps and looked again - it was right in front of me! I guess I was looking for something down a bit since the route text said I needed to downclimb to get to it. You do downclimb a move or two, but it's more across than down. Classic overthinking the problem.
We headed down from the belay and found the descent anchor. It looked nothing like I imagined it. I guess I had this picture in my mind of a big square block sitting on top of the ridge with bolts on both sides (can't remember where I read that).
I could clearly see the last part of Machete Direct over the other side and I knew from our position relative to the arête we had to be above the upper gully. I also knew I could start the rappel and proceed down far enough to see over the edge before committing. A few feet down and I could see the gully - sweet!
KC needed a little coaching on the downclimbing but she did great. We worked down through the 4th class sections together.
Getting down the last slab and back into the meadow was a nice feeling.
While we were on the arête I saw some hikers come up out of the caves and along the ledge Brad had told me about the first time we met. On the way down, we found our way straight down the gully and over the boulders back into the caves. There was a bit of PO reaching out in a few spots but I think we managed to sneak past all of it - fingers crossed the next 2 days
All in all an amazing day and a prelude to Double O...soon...very soon...
