Well, if you know me and KC - you know we're not scared of a little heat. We got up at the crack of "WTF am I doing up this early on a Sunday" yesterday and headed to our beloved Pinns. We were amazed to see other cars in the lot, since we passed through the gate at 7:32. We talked briefly with a pair of climbers getting ready to go do Son of Dawn - whew...no competition for our objective. We were shocked again when we started up the approach trail and saw packs stashed below Alias Bandit Bench. There was a male/female couple on route as we wound our way along the base of the Machete - not sure which route they were on - maybe Desperado Chute-Out. The man waved and I said good morning but I didn't hear a reply from the woman belaying.
Old Original is a route I have been clamoring to onsight for over a year. When I started climbing again and pouring through the guidebook, I was drawn to it like a moth to flame. Then we met Brad a few months later and discussed the route a little over dinner in Soledad. KC was very hesitant at that time, especially concerning the exposure and the descent. Brad suggested we do the descent in reverse so we'd be familiar with it. Sound Advice. Well, we took care of that problem a few weeks ago with my onsight of Fish Breath Arete. Now it was time for KC to conquer her fear of the scant protection and exposure on Double O. I think we both imagined pitch 4 as a sidewalk width of ridge with vertical drops on both sides - especially since the guidebook said unbelievable exposure. I have to say that some of the other pitches felt equally or more exposed - especially with the near total lack of protection - a lone bolt or two to keep you from going "all the way". As I started pitch 2, I called back to KC that she might want to lead this one - since following with that much rope out would essentially feel like a solo. She assured me she'd be fine despite my repeated "holy shit!" comments upon seeing what was ahead. I have to say that this climb was an absolute blast! - better than any adventure I've ever been on
We knocked off the first 3 pitches in short order and when I started up and over pitch 4...well...let's just say that what I had been imagining in my mind for over a year was much hairier/scarier than what was in front of me.
We did have one unexpected thing happen on pitch 4. I was about 30 feet from the anchor when KC yelled that I was nearly out of rope. I stood still while she removed her anchor from the manzanita and moved up enough for me to finish. I let her know that I was totally comfortable at that point and a sitting body belay would be fine.
If anyone is curious about the rappel stations for pitch 5 - anchor 1 is 63 feet down and anchor 2 is 95 feet.
From anchor 2 it is a full 60 m rope rappel if you don't want to do any scrambling to get to flat ground to pull your rope.
My tape was at 98 feet on that one. Why was I measuring? Someone at the AAC climb-in asked me if I would.
I suppose you could use a 50m for that 2nd rappel but I wouldn't recommend it - since you'd have to scramble down about the last 30 feet and it would be precarious to pull the rope from the top of that scramble.
Does anyone buy 50m's anymore?
We had one mishap on the route. KC managed to bang her left knee on a big block climbing the South Tower, so I was glad she had asked for a belay. Luckily the cut was small but I swear the banging echoed - ouch! She rapped down the other side and I downclimbed. I needed to warm up my climbing muscles for the Middle Tower.
The Middle Tower rock was blistering hot! Everything else before that had been fine.
I didn't need any chalk since my fingers seared onto each hold - in fact I never used any chalk at all on the whole route
We thought this might be the last pitch for us - but when we both got to the top and looked ahead, it was too good to resist.
I initially went all the way to the base of pitch 9 but then "climbed" back up to the notch below the short headwall where I thought KC might want a spot. She downclimbed that short section just fine - but it made both of us feel better to have less rope out - especially since there is no pro.
I proceeded up pitch 9, trailing the rope for KC and we summited the final pitch - yea!
I couldn't resist going to the top of the boulder on the North Tower for my finale.
We were getting a weird echo from the surrounding rocks and swallows darted past us several times.
It was a special treat to see Fish Breath Arete from our final summit vantage point.
KC single-rope rapped off my ballast and then I downclimbed pitch 9 so we could reverse pitch 8 and start the descent.
The shade of the gully was a welcome relief and we stopped briefly in the meadow to snack and hydrate before crossing the 4th class ledge. We packed up at the end of the ledge and then proceeded to weave our way down the lower gully, being extra careful of the PO reaching out for us in multiple places. It was a great feeling getting into the caves and we hooped and hollered a few times as we worked our way through those last sections. We stopped to talk briefly with several groups of hikers on the way out. It was 96 when we started the car around 3:30. We'd started from the parking lot at 8:05 in 70 degree temps.
I just want to say how proud I am of KC for following me on all these pitches - YOU ROCK woman!
This was one fine day!!!***
JC checking the route description along the way on pitch 3
KC follows pitch 4
JC belays KC to the end of pitch 4
KC follows pitch 8
JC with the 9 finger salute on the summit boulder of the North Tower
KC raps the Middle Tower so we can start the descent
