Author Topic: All I want for Christmas is a Pinns bolt kit  (Read 20576 times)

JC w KC redux

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All I want for Christmas is a Pinns bolt kit
« on: November 20, 2013, 04:58:41 PM »
suggestions?
One wheel shy of "normal"

Atomizer

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Re: All I want for Christmas is a Pinns bolt kit
« Reply #1 on: November 20, 2013, 05:30:09 PM »
You can borrow my Pika drill, but you'll need to find your own hammer. I'll include some hardware.

If you want to purchase a drill check these out:

http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/verticality/anchors/anchor-accessories/rocpec-0
I've used these, but Dave and Scott had one fall apart while bolting Blister in the Sun. Some critical part fell out... not good. Its a cool drill but that has got me scared to use it. And the wrist loop won't hold a fall.

http://shop.runoutcustoms.com/D-5-Hurricane-Drill-D5-HURR.htm
Its expensive but I love it. Works great and is solid, but the glue that holds the grip on is suspect.


Brad Young

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Re: All I want for Christmas is a Pinns bolt kit
« Reply #2 on: November 20, 2013, 06:04:28 PM »
suggestions?

Here's my suggestion:

Maybe Sunday wasn't such a good idea. There is, however, treatment available.

Signed,

Doctor Frankenstein

mungeclimber

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Re: All I want for Christmas is a Pinns bolt kit
« Reply #3 on: November 20, 2013, 09:09:49 PM »
Go for it Ahab.

Definitely ping Luke at Runout Customs for his "Heavy Duty" bolt bag. Don't get the light duty one.

I prefer the rocpec drill since bits can be changed out on the fly (on stance), if you break a bit en route.

blow tube length -  DO NOT MAKE A SHORT FACKING BLOW TUBE!  You guys know who are who still have blow tubes. F4, I'm throwing yours away one of these days. Get small cord to make tie offs with. Probably available at hardware stores.

Brush for the hole. Fixe hardware sells them. I find it hard to use them while on stance.

Wrench... I like a fixed box end. Very light. Others like a ratchet. For a few dollars more, they have ratchet box ends too that don't weigh too much. Very swanky. Whatever you do, make sure you have the right size (or an adjustable wrench, for the type of bolt you are using. Fixe wedge are different than Powers 5 piece.  Also, keep in mind that if you want to wrench down screw gates, the big ones are different from either Fixe or Powers.

Hammer - Yosemite Hammer by BD is a good way to go. Not too heavy, but heavy enough.

Hooks- stance everything and you won't have to worry about the cheating that using a hook is.

On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mynameismud

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Re: All I want for Christmas is a Pinns bolt kit
« Reply #4 on: November 21, 2013, 12:11:28 AM »
I think the hole brushes are a waste but other like them.  I agree with have a long tube.  I like the hard plastic tubing versus the floppy surgical tubes.
Here's to sweat in your eye

cobbledik

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Re: All I want for Christmas is a Pinns bolt kit
« Reply #5 on: November 21, 2013, 05:33:42 PM »
I think the hole brushes are a waste but other like them.  I agree with have a long tube.  I like the hard plastic tubing versus the floppy surgical tubes.

Likes... hard.... and long tube... instead of... floppy... must...... control..... need..... to.....make...joke......

mynameismud

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Re: All I want for Christmas is a Pinns bolt kit
« Reply #6 on: November 21, 2013, 06:19:53 PM »
I got something long and hard for ya
Here's to sweat in your eye

F4?

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Re: All I want for Christmas is a Pinns bolt kit
« Reply #7 on: November 21, 2013, 06:21:21 PM »
Hey!

It had better not be the holy blow tube Jim passed to me?

I want it back if so.
I'm not worthy.

squiddo

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Re: All I want for Christmas is a Pinns bolt kit
« Reply #8 on: November 21, 2013, 07:11:14 PM »
I got something long and hard for ya

ha ha haaaaaa
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber

mynameismud

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Re: All I want for Christmas is a Pinns bolt kit
« Reply #9 on: November 21, 2013, 08:27:24 PM »
Nope had mine since back in the day
Here's to sweat in your eye

squiddo

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Re: All I want for Christmas is a Pinns bolt kit
« Reply #10 on: November 22, 2013, 09:05:02 AM »
Go for it Ahab.

I prefer the rocpec drill since bits can be changed out on the fly (on stance), if you break a bit en route.


Munge- did you ever try the Bosch SDS bits? Curious how they are holding up?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber

mungeclimber

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Re: All I want for Christmas is a Pinns bolt kit
« Reply #11 on: November 22, 2013, 09:08:52 AM »
Pretty well. I'm pretty sure most of mine are the Bosch. That's all they have at Lowes.

Admittedly I'm ditching any bit after enough holes so that I'm working with sharp bits most of the time.

Make every hammer blow count.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

squiddo

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Re: All I want for Christmas is a Pinns bolt kit
« Reply #12 on: November 22, 2013, 09:32:46 AM »
Pretty well. I'm pretty sure most of mine are the Bosch. That's all they have at Lowes.

Admittedly I'm ditching any bit after enough holes so that I'm working with sharp bits most of the time.

Make every hammer blow count

Yep about $7 at Osh as well. Curious how many good holes you can roughly count on in solid granite.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber

JC w KC redux

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Re: All I want for Christmas is a Pinns bolt kit
« Reply #13 on: November 22, 2013, 01:36:25 PM »
So to summarize all the suggestions it sounds like I need:

BD Yosemite hammer
Petzl Rocpec or Hurricane Drill
A heavy duty runout customs bag - price? other options?
A bulb or blow tube - I think I like the bulb better
SDS Bosch bits from the hardware store.

The hurricane seems like the smarter choice given it's beefiness - it's been my experience that with tools you get what you pay for. Sounds like the difference between Home Depot's house brand and Snap On.

How much of an issue is the pinching on the Rocpec? How do you tighten the bit on that one? The spec sheet online just shows a twist arrow - reminds me of IKEA.

Bob and Brad - what kind of drills were we using?

Jim or Bruce - wanna chime in here?
One wheel shy of "normal"

squiddo

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Re: All I want for Christmas is a Pinns bolt kit
« Reply #14 on: November 22, 2013, 01:41:35 PM »
So to summarize all the suggestions it sounds like I need:

BD Yosemite hammer
Petzl Rocpec or Hurricane Drill
A heavy duty runout customs bag - price? other options?
A bulb or blow tube - I think I like the bulb better
SDS Bosch bits from the hardware store.

The hurricane seems like the smarter choice given it's beefiness - it's been my experience that with tools you get what you pay for. Sounds like the difference between Home Depot's house brand and Snap On.

How much of an issue is the pinching on the Rocpec? How do you tighten the bit on that one? The spec sheet online just shows a twist arrow - reminds me of IKEA.

Bob and Brad - what kind of drills were we using?

Jim or Bruce - wanna chime in here?

HD Bolt bag was $45 plus shipping ($50 OTD) and it is buurl. Email Luke....he had a couple more in Oct.

Luke Malatesta <runoutcustoms@gmail.com>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber

MUCCI

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Re: All I want for Christmas is a Pinns bolt kit
« Reply #15 on: November 22, 2013, 01:47:55 PM »
I have hundreds of bolts on my Rocpeck.  It did break as Atomizer mentioned after around 100 holes.  I took off the collet system and fabricated a key lock to hold the bit in.

It is now way better than original, and is holding steady with a bit of tape.

The D5 hurricane is a more complex system, involving collets and 2 wrenches.  The good part about the Hurricane is that you can use multiple sizes of bits for different applications.

I have a hurricane you can try out for a while, see if you like it. 

I agree with munge on the runout customs beefy bag, and long blow tube.

The brush in MANDATORY. It will ensure that you have the best chance of the sleeve sticking.  I have had many spinners when I have not had the brush.  More often with the wedge bolts, but at pins you will be using 5 piece so it may not be that big of a deal.

The Pika I had kept coming loose at the set screws, not a great drill IMHO.

Take Adam up on it though, use as many drills as you can before you commit to purchasing one.

mungeclimber

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Re: All I want for Christmas is a Pinns bolt kit
« Reply #16 on: November 22, 2013, 03:40:15 PM »
had

I may have bought the last one that was sitting on the shop floor. But please do email him. He'll probably make another run of them if people speak up.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

squiddo

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Re: All I want for Christmas is a Pinns bolt kit
« Reply #17 on: November 22, 2013, 03:45:46 PM »
I may have bought the last one that was sitting on the shop floor. But please do email him. He'll probably make another run of them if people speak up.
HA HA-you need Luke to make you a bolt bag for your bolt bags....
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber

mungeclimber

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Re: All I want for Christmas is a Pinns bolt kit
« Reply #18 on: November 22, 2013, 04:25:57 PM »
an Uber Bolt Bag to rule them all?
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

JC w KC redux

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Re: All I want for Christmas is a Pinns bolt kit
« Reply #19 on: November 22, 2013, 04:34:14 PM »
I may have bought the last one that was sitting on the shop floor. But please do email him. He'll probably make another run of them if people speak up.

Just got a message from him that he has both in stock - yeehaw!
One wheel shy of "normal"