I've done the standard Machete descent now more than 20 times over the 29 years I've been climbing at Pinns. It's changing (and not for the better). A question Jim McCon asked me two years ago got me thinking about how it's changing and about whether it's finally time to install rappel anchors in the upper gully part of this descent. Here are my thoughts:
First, I'm talking about the upper descent gully, the part above the meadow and below the route Barber's Backside (which is the route that goes up the first, and right now only, rappel on this descent). This upper gully is shown fairly clearly on page 311 of the 2007 guidebook.
Second, the changes I've seen aren't good. This used to be a fairly casual descent, even when it was damp. It's fairly steep, but there used to be more rocks that stuck out and gave traction. Also the rock overall wasn't as worn and smooth. But mostly there used to be much, much more dirt, grass, vegetation and hummocks over the whole length of this chute. The vegetation and dirt allowed one to bypass many of the steepest rock parts of the descent. But walking on the dirt has caused it to go away. Areas that used to be dirt and hummocks are butt-smooth rock now. And most critically, there are huge, foot-deep trenches in the dirt away from the wall. People use the dirt because the rock is now so smooth, and who can blame them? But it's eroding very badly now, the trees there are being undermined and will die (at least one is dead already). We may be "destroying-by-use" the little bit of environment that is in that gully.
Third, when Jim asked me if I thought it was a good idea to put up a series of bolted rap stations down this upper gully, I think he was a little surprised when I told him that there had been one once. A bit of history: there were no bolted rap anchors at all during the first 40 or so years of humans using this descent (but there wasn't much traffic over those years either, at least by today's standards). Then, in the mid-late 1980s someone put in multiple two bolt rap stations. I only saw these anchors once: they didn't last long. A local with a long (and very good, ethical and positive) history at Pinns removed those bolts. He did this because he thought they were:
1. Wrong and probably not ethical, and;
2. Poorly thought out and placed (my interpretation of his comments).
I didn't disagree with him on either point. He was clearly correct on the second one, and on the first point I felt he was taking the high road, which is my preferred path on ethical issues.
The descent has been the same since those bolts were removed.
Fourth, to be clear on what I alluded to above, I've become convinced that climbers will, without wanting to, destroy the grass and trees and, in fact, everything growing in that gully if we continue our ways. I've come to believe that three or so properly installed rap stations 90 feet apart are the right solution at this time. Such rap stations would consist of two-each, stainless steel bolts with rings and, critically, would be placed on the wall, at about chest height (the prior bolts were down low on the ramp and some, if I recall were also in wet spots).
Fifth, I've talked now with at least a dozen Pinns "locals" about this issue (including the one who removed the 1980s bolt stations). No-one has opposed a careful, proper installation of new rap stations. Reaction has varied from definite support to non-oppostion/who cares.
As a side note, one strong local climber who didn't care much either way just uses the Rock Around the Clock rappels since getting down by those is quick and easy. But I'm not sure this a solution for the masses - if one hasn't climbed Rock Around the Clock the mere issue of finding the right top anchor can be a non-starter. I think this backside descent is going to be the standard descent from Machete for the foreseeable future.
Sixth, would installation of such rap stations be ethical? I think so, maybe. Certainly this issue isn't as cut and dried as is the issue of adding bolts to existing climbing routes. Adding bolts to existing routes is a heresy so bad that it is exceeded (maybe) only by bolting next to protectable cracks. I worry that, in the name of "safety" (always, of necessity, the greater goal of commercial climbing enterprises) adventure will eventually be sacrificed in outdoor climbing and the wonderful history and tradition that is climbing at Pinnacles will go with it. If this ever does happen, I hope it isn't until after I have died a peaceful death from old age.
But what about adding bolted stations to a long-established descent? This isn't as close a call ethically. In point of fact, I'd be cautious on the issue myself and say "no" to the idea ("convenience anchors") but for the fact that this gully is getting badly trashed. Can rap anchors be added here without setting a bad and dangerous precedent? I think that the answer to this question is "yes," but only if the vast majority of Pinns regulars recognize this as an unusual situation and reach a consensus about this one situation.
Seeking such consensus is the purpose of this thread. Although I've talked to a dozen or more regulars, I think it is critical to bring the discussion to as many Pinnacles climbers as possible (or maybe not as many as absolutely possible - I'm not sure that I'd post this on Supertopo any more than I'd deliberately paint a target on my back and then go visit a shooting range).
Seventh, If such consensus is reached, I am willing to carefully and thoughtfully install such anchors (and I think Jim is willing to help me).
Thoughts?
