The Standard Machete Descent: Is It Time for Rap Anchors?

[Brad Young]

Yeah, Adam, they've got a good point, no apologies necessary. You bring a lot to this forum (and a lot to Pinns climbing too).

It sounds like work got too slow?

[waldo]

Gavin, I agree with you about the safety issues.  Inexperienced climbers deserve a less hair-raising option.  Rappelling the face gives me concerns too.  I recently saw climbers on Machete Direct on a very busy park day - dozens of kids and hikers on the trail below them.  However careful they were, loads of loose stuff was ready to come down.  The same goes for rappels of the face.  You can't tell what's going to happen when you pull your ropes. 

[waldo]

Brad, it's going to be 25 tonight at my house in K.C.  That gully will be flat miserable all day and ice may linger.  I climbed Freemont Peak yesterday and there was ice on the trail at four in the afternoon.  Next week should be better.

[Atomizer]

Yeah, Adam, they've got a good point, no apologies necessary. You bring a lot to this forum (and a lot to Pinns climbing too).

It sounds like work got too slow?

Thanks Brad, its nice to know you guys have got my back.

The money has run short and our strategic investor fell through. There is nothing to purchase at this point and its become apparent we need to spend a few million upgrading some tools or we'll never get to where we need to be to get competitive in the market. I'll likely know in a few weeks whether our other prospects come through. Sorry if this is off topic.

[oldtopangalizard]

Are there new rap anchors up there? Weather permitting, would like to shoot for Old Original late February or March. Just want to know what to look for. Only time on top we rapped first pitch of OO.
Really want to do this route in it's entirety, I've only climbed first two pitches.

[JC w KC redux]

Are there new rap anchors up there? Weather permitting, would like to shoot for Old Original late February or March. Just want to know what to look for. Only time on top we rapped first pitch of OO.
Really want to do this route in it's entirety, I've only climbed first two pitches.

No rap anchors on the descent gully yet. With your level of experience and penchant for adventure I doubt you'd have a problem. Of course if we start to get some rain...
You could do like we did and climb up the descent and do Fish Breath Arete.
That way when you finish OO you'll already know what to do. OO is magical.

[Uncle Stinky]

JC how did you like Fish Breath Arete ? - It looked very cool. It would be fun to do O.O. in reverse.

[Brad Young]

Bill,

Jim and I have decided to go ahead with installing rappel anchors. But time and priorities (mostly the proximity of the bird closures) have delayed us. We will post here once we have finished this work.

And, by the way, welcome to the forum. I hope to meet you in person; iIs there any chance that you and your son will be coming to this year's Master's of Mud Rendezvous to meet all of us?

[JC w KC redux]

JC how did you like Fish Breath Arete ? - It looked very cool. It would be fun to do O.O. in reverse.

I think Fish Breath is awesome. Position and exposure just keep getting better as you get higher. check out my May TR Breaking Barriers - Something smells Fishy
I've also done all the "alternate" OO pitches and the rappel bypass. The Hideout is cool as an alternate OO start if you haven't done that. My least favorite of the reverse pitches is Barber's Backside. I liked the Rappel Reverse even though the first bolt is too low and the second is quite high - but it's right where you want pro.

[oldtopangalizard]

JC - unfortunately my level of experience and penchant for adventure doesn't help me get up the climbs anymore. BTW, we met last April at the bottom of Passion Play, chatting about route direction.
Brad - thanks for the invite. Can't say where I will be around the end of April. Be great for my son to meet younger climbers to climb with.

[JC w KC redux]

JC - unfortunately my level of experience and penchant for adventure doesn't help me get up the climbs anymore. BTW, we met last April at the bottom of Passion Play, chatting about route direction.

Then I would definitely recommend climbing up the descent - even if you just scramble up the upper gully to the base of the rappel at the bottom of Barber's Backside - you'll know exactly what you'll have to downclimb at the end of what could be a long day depending on OO traffic. Working carefully up the lower gully has a couple interesting 4th class sections - including the 4th class ledge - and some close-in PO that can be carefully avoided. I do remember meeting you - I seem to recall some wisecracker suggesting the route be re-led in the water chute

[waldo]

I thought I'd mention that Crux and I left a top-rope (70 meter, though I believe a 60 meter will serve, too) at the last set of rappel anchors and used it to protect the Rappel Reverse (837).  There was a bit of a pendulum potential at the level of the second bolt, but it was much better than leading through the damp choss.  Whose permission might we need to add another bolt above the first one?  That would make this baby a more reasonable Pinnacles lead.  Clint's rebolting efforts took the X off it. 

[JC w KC redux]

I thought I'd mention that Crux and I left a top-rope (70 meter, though I believe a 60 meter will serve, too) at the last set of rappel anchors and used it to protect the Rappel Reverse (837).  There was a bit of a pendulum potential at the level of the second bolt, but it was much better than leading through the damp choss.  Whose permission might we need to add another bolt above the first one?  That would make this baby a more reasonable Pinnacles lead.  Clint's rebolting efforts took the X off it.  

For what it's worth - I onsighted that route and I think the 2nd bolt is right where it needs to be. The first bolt becomes useless almost immediately - it's too low. The moves up to the second bolt are scary but not hard and the harder moves are well protected by that second bolt. Above that point the climbing eases substantially. I wouldn't change a thing. We're talkin' slippery slope here Bob

By the way - why was it previously X?

[clink]

 Wow, intense read. I hope to descend this old school style (existing) with JC sometime soon. I agree with distance of 50m- if stations are added. That way if LA does Old Original in hiking boots, hemp rope and knickers he won't cuss his rope not being long enough.

 Haven't been down it since the mid 90's so any opinion I have has faded with my recollection of specific details of the descent. I seem to remember rapping off a block (with a back up bolt?) sometimes and then keeping hummocks between me and a fall. If the descent has changed and become dangerous, a creative, community solution is in order.

 Someone tried to add a bolt to Dos Equis? That is dumb, and probably set LA off big time. He gave the clearest statement I've heard yet about not altering the original ascent party's intention or style of a route. Larry Arthur took a lot of time to mentor me through those early years, for which I am forever grateful.

[clink]

 Did it yesterday with JC, He took pictures of a few sections.

 The main gully has an erosion trench down it. I suspect the water is flowing much faster and washing away the lower hummocks. A  rock ramp 4-6ft wide exists on the side of this section. Anchors could be positioned on this at 22m+- intervals.

 The lower traverse first holly is a weathered stick now, this section can be belayed. If the remaining die intermediate pro might be placed. How to preserve the mountaineering adventure as it changes is the question.

 Don't do it wet.

[F4?]

those would work great!

Doesn't West Marine carry them? Or were you going to borrow a few from the SC harbor?

[JC w KC redux]

those would work great!

Doesn't West Marine carry them? Or were you going to borrow a few from the SC harbor?

I can get a discount on those but I would prefer a pin head model.

[clink]

Or were you going to borrow a few from the SC harbor?

Night mission, meet me at the "place" 0200

[clink]

pin head model

What's it look like? Or are you making fun of me...?

[JC w KC redux]

What's it look like?