Author Topic: Anchors in poor rock - discuss (Read 11695 times)

mungeclimber · « **on:** November 27, 2013, 09:57:29 AM »

http://www.climbing.com/skill/building-anchors-in-poor-rock/

MUCCI · « **Reply #1 on:** November 27, 2013, 01:12:49 PM »

I built a 9 pcs anchor on a new free route.

Had to rap and then jug it later.

Thought it was going to explode.

Would have been bomber with totems. Fat bolts were demanded by my partner.

Rivet belays are cool too, especially with tie off loops.
Until they pull out.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #2 on:** November 27, 2013, 03:42:13 PM »

I'm partial to good gear myself. Rivets as anchors is anachronistic.

MUCCI · « **Reply #3 on:** November 27, 2013, 03:48:30 PM »

Big word for a mungeclimber

mungeclimber · « **Reply #4 on:** November 27, 2013, 04:10:09 PM »

Better than saying "FeculentClimber"

buahahaha

MUCCI · « **Reply #5 on:** November 27, 2013, 04:36:12 PM »

Blah!

F4? · « **Reply #6 on:** November 27, 2013, 04:41:04 PM »

I bring my bolt gun.....BAM, BAM 2x new bolts. Then equalize them.

Brad Young · « **Reply #7 on:** November 27, 2013, 04:41:44 PM »

I can only understand about half the words that you two are using here.

Me? I say that a drilled hole is a drilled hole. Filling it with a rivet (or worse yet, a dowel) on any kind of rock is being cheap or lazy (or both), or else looking for bragging rights (sort of like running out before stopping to drill gave bragging rights BitD). Gonna put a hole in the rock? Justified that by filling it with something worthwhile.

cobbledik · « **Reply #8 on:** November 27, 2013, 04:59:01 PM »

I looooooooved solo-aiding over an anchor of twenty-year-old machine head rivets on the crux pitch of Horney-Johnson.

MUCCI · « **Reply #9 on:** November 27, 2013, 05:03:31 PM »

Oh you know cobble... And then there is that rivet that popped out on Steve....

Brad Young · « **Reply #10 on:** November 27, 2013, 05:06:24 PM »

Quote from: MUCCI on November 27, 2013, 05:03:31 PM

Oh you know cobble... And then there is that rivet that popped out on Steve....

And Mucci, at least, has heard of the 110 foot fall I held when Forest popped a whole dowel ladder on South Seas. Cheap and lazy.

MUCCI · « **Reply #11 on:** November 27, 2013, 05:18:26 PM »

Where would the difficulty come from if there were no rivets?

Jeez:)

F4? · « **Reply #12 on:** November 27, 2013, 05:20:43 PM »

Quote

Rivets as anchors is anachronistic.

Such a powerful word, yet with so much meaning.

What was the purpose of a rivet @ that time?

Nowdays, with how technology has progressed, are they needed?

Brad Young · « **Reply #13 on:** November 27, 2013, 05:21:10 PM »

Quote from: MUCCI on November 27, 2013, 05:18:26 PM

Where would the difficulty come from if there were no rivets?

Jeez:)

By not drilling a hole at all. Gonna drill? Fill it well. Otherwise find a different way.

MUCCI · « **Reply #14 on:** November 27, 2013, 05:22:27 PM »

Enhance!

Brad Young · « **Reply #15 on:** November 27, 2013, 05:23:41 PM »

Quote from: MUCCI on November 27, 2013, 05:22:27 PM

Enhance!

It's a testimony to your ideal personality and good humor that I like you anyway

MUCCI · « **Reply #16 on:** November 27, 2013, 11:10:09 PM »

mungeclimber · « **Reply #17 on:** November 28, 2013, 08:27:29 PM »

Trenching at Pinnacles is more like learning to operate a backhoe.

waldo · « **Reply #18 on:** November 28, 2013, 08:49:26 PM »

That first pitch of the Balconies regular route comes to mind when mentioning risk sans rivets, especially the belay. That flake is not permanent. I agree with Brad. Rivets should be consigned to the woodpecker holes of history.

F4? · « **Reply #19 on:** November 28, 2013, 11:23:33 PM »

wonder if anyone has tried BAT holes @ the pins?

News:

Author Topic: Anchors in poor rock - discuss (Read 11695 times)