Author Topic: Pigeon Crack  (Read 54414 times)

mungeclimber

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Re: Pigeon Crack
« Reply #40 on: December 12, 2013, 06:08:19 PM »
whaddayamean? Missing chunks means it's already been cleaned.


noob
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mynameismud

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Re: Pigeon Crack
« Reply #41 on: December 12, 2013, 06:30:17 PM »
the edge it left behind looks usable  :)
Here's to sweat in your eye

Brad Young

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Re: Pigeon Crack
« Reply #42 on: December 12, 2013, 06:33:17 PM »
I'd be very happy hanging out below while you two go for the lead on such usable edges (I actually stood on this usable edge when I was drilling - it crumbled predictably, but held).

As a noob/boob I'd be satisfied with the second ascent   ;)

cobbledik

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Re: Pigeon Crack
« Reply #43 on: December 13, 2013, 12:46:51 AM »
whaddayamean? Missing chunks means it's already been cleaned.


noob

best post of the week

mungeclimber

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Re: Pigeon Crack
« Reply #44 on: December 13, 2013, 11:02:04 AM »
I'd be very happy hanging out below while you two go for the lead on such usable edges (I actually stood on this usable edge when I was drilling - it crumbled predictably, but held).

As a noob/boob I'd be satisfied with the second ascent   ;)

that's the spirit! Just need to get to the mother choss. Let the next guy worry about that cookie-ing apart.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

squiddo

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Re: Pigeon Crack
« Reply #45 on: December 13, 2013, 12:19:06 PM »
Worst route at pinnacles?

looking like it.....
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
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F4?

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Re: Pigeon Crack
« Reply #46 on: December 13, 2013, 07:09:08 PM »
just start bolting.....rivet or 2....
I'm not worthy.

cobbledik

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Re: Pigeon Crack
« Reply #47 on: December 13, 2013, 09:42:33 PM »
It's all there if you want to waste the metal. Make sure your rivets are 3/8" and about 4" long

F4?

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Re: Pigeon Crack
« Reply #48 on: December 14, 2013, 09:44:43 AM »
Them dimensions sound like re-bar.

Use some glue and they are A1?
I'm not worthy.

clink

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Re: Pigeon Crack
« Reply #49 on: December 15, 2013, 06:56:44 AM »
I propose that any heads left fixed, trenched between cobbles at Pinns, be called cobbledikheads.

In honor of anyone who would weight one.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

Brad Young

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Re: Pigeon Crack
« Reply #50 on: December 15, 2013, 07:44:15 AM »
I propose that any heads left fixed, trenched between cobbles at Pinns, be called cobbledikheads.

In honor of anyone who would weight one.

Sh#t John, you musta had your coffee early this morning. That was pretty damn funny. I'm supposed to see him this morning, It'll make him laugh too.

mungeclimber

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Re: Pigeon Crack
« Reply #51 on: December 15, 2013, 10:38:08 AM »
Have fun!
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Max

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Re: Pigeon Crack
« Reply #52 on: August 18, 2016, 09:45:25 AM »
Just talked to Steve again about crackaphobia.

He said he is pretty sure he did not aid the crack.

However, he did mention drilling the 1st pitch of son of dawn direct solo.  He thought SOD wall was to be an FA.

It had already been climbed prior to his attempt.

Shortly thereafter, he repeated sod wall, complete with the original start for its 2nd ascent.

Cool history.

Pigeon crack looks bagalaar.

Edited for clarity:

I haven't been in contact with him for a bit now, but Chuck Clance had told me he did the second ascent of Son of Dawn Wall with the original start. He seemed dumbfounded to hear about the direct first pitch bolt ladder. He said if you're gonna climb it, do the original start. I haven't climbed it yet.
When in doubt, run it out!

Brad Young

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Re: Pigeon Crack
« Reply #53 on: August 18, 2016, 09:59:01 AM »

...he said if you're gonna climb it, do the original start. I haven't climbed it yet.


Do both starts and you'll have done two different routes (nobody is limited to just one  ;)  ).

The original start is loose, scary, relatively easy, garbage climbing. I'd never do it again (but I had to do it once!!).