Author Topic: Historic (Read 222330 times)

mynameismud · « **Reply #40 on:** December 11, 2013, 04:51:20 PM »

nah, it is just the rule.

kinda like you have to have two drills, but different.

Atomizer · « **Reply #41 on:** December 11, 2013, 04:55:40 PM »

Quote from: mynameismud on December 11, 2013, 04:51:20 PM

nah, it is just the rule.

kinda like you have to have two drills, but different.

Eventually you'll "need" two hammers.

waldo · « **Reply #42 on:** December 11, 2013, 06:15:40 PM »

Holmgren experimented with a "head" hammer, but he got dizzy after twenty hits or so.

mynameismud · « **Reply #43 on:** December 11, 2013, 10:29:34 PM »

that is hilarious because it is believable.

waldo · « **Reply #44 on:** December 11, 2013, 10:43:54 PM »

Kind of like a headlamp without the lamp. He got it so he could take a decent lick, but he had trouble aiming. Had to close his eyes.

F4? · « **Reply #45 on:** December 11, 2013, 10:56:16 PM »

Quote

Kind of like a headlamp without the lamp. He got it so he could take a decent lick, but he had trouble aiming. Had to close his eyes.

You could have taken at least 1 picture.

The best part of leading is you get to decide where to put the bolts in....

clink · « **Reply #46 on:** December 15, 2013, 09:16:16 AM »

Yesterday was guided by Aaron up Lava Falls. Was admiring Holmgrens placements.
and happy to follow.

We rapped off Hook and Drill. Single 70m stretched within 6ft of ground. Someone rapped apparently off a hardware store snap link from a single bolt 80' up. It is stamped 200lbs, they must have weighed 150 or less?

Showed Aaron the Regular Route and suggested the first pitch as "classic"

Sucker bit! Ha ha. I love being guided.

Was super cool to meet all the Inn Crowd!!

Great day Aaron, thanks

mungeclimber · « **Reply #47 on:** December 15, 2013, 10:36:10 AM »

Wow, sounds awesome!

Brad Young · « **Reply #48 on:** December 15, 2013, 08:36:43 PM »

F4, tell Clink about the rap station you put in so that one can rap Hook and Drill with one 60 meter rope (two, one-rope rappels).

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #49 on:** December 16, 2013, 11:00:16 AM »

Quote from: clink on December 15, 2013, 09:16:16 AM

Yesterday was guided by Aaron up Lava Falls.
Great day Aaron, thanks

Why would you want to climb a three star classic when you could be on this just across the valley?

Aaron McDonald · « **Reply #50 on:** December 16, 2013, 01:37:14 PM »

Quote from: clink on December 15, 2013, 09:16:16 AM

Great day Aaron, thanks

Clink,

Thanks for you patient belay. This was a mile stone for me. The first time I went up Lava Falls, Gavin lead the route with me and Alicia following. This was only a couple months after my first outdoor climb 2 years ago. I came off at the bulge on that first time up and hung around for a while trying to figure the move. This time I really had a mental block when I got back to the bulge. After several tries and a lower off I finally made the move only to discover how physically easy the move really was versus my mental build up. Great feeling to push through. Thanks again Jon!

Aaron McDonald · « **Reply #51 on:** December 16, 2013, 01:38:28 PM »

Quote from: JC w KC redux on December 10, 2013, 05:39:43 PM

Damnit! Already lost a day

HA! 4 days and counting.

Aaron McDonald · « **Reply #52 on:** December 16, 2013, 01:40:34 PM »

Quote from: Brad Young on December 15, 2013, 08:36:43 PM

F4, tell Clink about the rap station you put in so that one can rap Hook and Drill with one 60 meter rope (two, one-rope rappels).

F4 for real?

Brad Young · « **Reply #53 on:** December 16, 2013, 01:46:13 PM »

Aaron, he's not answering yet, but yes, for real. He put in a two-bolt rappel station off to the right of Hook and Drill, just outside that route's water chute, on a stance. Instead of rapping Hook and Drill with two ropes, two half-rope length raps (I think about 85 feet and about 60 feet, but use a 60 meter rope just to be sure).

mungeclimber · « **Reply #54 on:** December 16, 2013, 02:31:25 PM »

what's the story on the convenience anchor?

mynameismud · « **Reply #55 on:** December 16, 2013, 03:15:23 PM »

before when climbing folks rapped from Hook and Drill since there was no anchor on Lava Falls, there is still no anchor on some of the routes to the right of Lava Falls. I rapped Hook and Drill serveral times with a single 60 but that required clipping into and from a jingus bolt. Now you rap to bolts in a blank wall.

Well blank until someone bolts a line up to the new anchors (5.10 -).

Aaron McDonald · « **Reply #56 on:** December 16, 2013, 03:27:13 PM »

Quote from: Brad Young on December 16, 2013, 01:46:13 PM

Aaron, he's not answering yet, but yes, for real.

Good to know. I rapped first and tried to look for more options. I guess you need to stay out of the Hook and Drill chute in order to obtain the anchor?

Brad Young · « **Reply #57 on:** December 16, 2013, 03:32:55 PM »

Quote from: mungeclimber on December 16, 2013, 02:31:25 PM

what's the story on the convenience anchor?

It's not my story, so I'll let F4 tell it. But yeah, I've used it too since he put it in and told me about it. I know he put it in soon after the book came out, maybe in early '08? It is on a blank face - at least blank of climbing routes.

I think I may have top roped the face leading up to it too? Dennis is that what your post refers to - did we try to top rope up to that anchor at some point?

mungeclimber · « **Reply #58 on:** December 16, 2013, 03:34:03 PM »

how is the rock quality? new project?

Brad Young · « **Reply #59 on:** December 16, 2013, 04:27:29 PM »

Working on a slender memory here, but Dennis' comment about it being in the 5.10 range reminded me that I (I think with him) tried to top rope the line from the ground to the anchor F4 put in. I do recall that there is a bit of a natural line of climbing to that anchor, but I don't remember why I think that.

Rock quality must have been average since the climbing isn't in the Hook and Drill chute (or at least most of it isn't (?), and we didn't rush out to make it a lead climb.

News:

Author Topic: Historic (Read 222330 times)