Historic

[F4?]

Yep, it's in a blank face, 50m or so down climber right to Hook and Drill. There is a vague ledge that you stand on. It's on the face opposite Digger/ HooknDrill

I was tired of showing up with 1 rope and having to do some trickery to get off of the balconies. Of course I have since bought a 60m 8mm static that's pretty light.

I have a picture somewhere, not since it was years ago.

BTW, the original b3y3r bolts from the top look fine...until you look from underneath...can you say cratering...

The guides to this in Yosemite and the sierras...you just have to look in the right spots.

BTW, the bolts are lower down the face than we originally planned due to serious rock quality issues/ challenges.

[mynameismud]

Brad we may have TR'd that together but my memory really is not all that good.  I do remember looking at it real close and thinking it was 5.10 and since I am rarely wrong about ratings...

EDIT:
Brad you may as well put the route in the New Route section now
Blank Wall 5.10 -
FA UnKnown

[Brad Young]

I couldn't add it to the new routes even if I were so inclined (and I'm not 'cause it's not). That thread/post is (apparently) maxed out on word count and until you get home so I can call and we can fix it, I can't even add a real new route.

And Factor, it's Sierra not Sierras. The word is spanish and it's already plural.

[F4?]

? so I can't spell, you got the point.

Did you guys TR that face?

Damn, beat me to it.

[clink]

"Why would you want to climb a three star classic when you could be on this just across the valley?"

JC, what is that? It looks bad, and furry.

[JC w KC redux]

And Factor, it's Sierra not Sierras. The word is spanish and it's already plural.

I love it when people say the Sierra Nevada Mountains

[JC w KC redux]

JC, what is that? It looks bad, and furry.

Triple X 5.7 - some tasty moss and choss served with a generous portion of runout on the side

[JC w KC redux]

Another weekend of no climbing for the reduxes. UNHEARD OF - and probably one of the coolest Pinns weekends we'll have all summer. We walked to the beach but did little else. I've been riding the big uni every day and backsliding on free range veganism. I have Golfer's elbow - which is a stupid name since golfers don't even get it. Anybody ever have this condition? Seems fate doesn't want me to climb without some nagging, limiting, physical BS.

[Brad Young]

...I have Golfer's elbow - which is a stupid name since golfers don't even get it. Anybody ever have this condition? Seems fate doesn't want me to climb without some nagging, limiting, physical BS.

I think I talked about this with you when you were up here? I bet that your muscles are getting stronger faster than your ligaments and tendons (which is how it normally works). I had it bad for several months back when I was new to climbing. It went away spontaneously as the connective tissues got stronger. I hope that that happens for you.

[JC w KC redux]

Yep, it's in a blank face, 50m or so down climber right to Hook and Drill. There is a vague ledge that you stand on. It's on the face opposite Digger/ HooknDrill

BTW, the bolts are lower down the face than we originally planned due to serious rock quality issues/ challenges.

Are the top bolts shown on the topo on page 295? It shows 2 bolts but no route below.
Where would it be on the pic on page 293?

[Brad Young]

Are the top bolts shown on the topo on page 295? It shows 2 bolts but no route below.
Where would it be on the pic on page 293?

Nope, page 295 has nothing to do with this rappel. The rappel as it used to be is shown on the topo on page 292. One rappelled from the top two bolts of Hook and Drill to the ground with two ropes (about 160 feet).

I descended from the Balconies this way after the first time I did Lava Falls (as I've said before, Lava Falls used to have a one bolt top belay well back from the top - one walked off to rap Hook and Drill with two ropes after climbing it).

So go back to the topo on page 292. Add in a foot-wide ledge and a two bolt anchor just about where the letter "s" is in the word sling; maybe a little left of that. That's where Factor's anchor is. It was a smart and good addition - the rap can now be made with one rope (I think a 60 meter).

Unfortunately he put it in a few months after the book came out and so no-one knows about the additional anchor.

(And BTW, the new anchor isn't "on" any route, so there is no question of him having added bolts to a route or anything like that.)

[mynameismud]

Uh hum, I think everyone knows about it since it is posted on the forum.

[Brad Young]

Uh hum, I think everyone knows about it since it is posted on the forum.

Of course they do. Plain silly of me to even suspect otherwise. All the cool kids are here and so are all the Pinns climbers.

(Got my ass kicked hard enough today on granite that I may well be ready for some Pinns action soon.)

[JC w KC redux]

Thanks Brad. I know that was a lot of keyboarding. I will pencil it in to my book.
Now I just need to get up the nerve to go do some stuff on Balconies.

[Brad Young]

Now I just need to get up the nerve to go do some stuff on Balconies.

You mean "get up" something on the Balconies other than a great two pitch route that you did the first ascent on?

I think you'd love the north end (Knifeblade and the routes around it).

[JC w KC redux]

I think you'd love the north end (Knifeblade and the routes around it).

Agreed. I have looked at those in the book repeatedly. The approach climb scares me.
I was looking at Casper again yesterday and it scares the crap out of me too!
Looks like a double rack would be a good idea and the anchor needs chains(huge mass of old webbing up there).

[JC w KC redux]

Almost 1.2 inches of rain since last night on the Park gauge.
It stopped for a couple hours this morning and will probably pick up again if the pitter patter on my roof is any indication.
Looks like it is already tipping...

Good day to be a duck.

[Brad Young]

Two inches of snow here.

Good day to be a Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever 

[Brad Young]

Almost 1.2 inches of rain since last night on the Park gauge.

And where is that rain gauge in the Park (I forget)?

[JC w KC redux]

And where is that rain gauge in the Park (I forget)?

LATITUDE: 36.470750
LONGITUDE: -121.147278
ELEVATION: 1322 ft

Got an app for that?