Author Topic: Age Record Set for Shake and Bake  (Read 17153 times)

Brad Young

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Age Record Set for Shake and Bake
« on: December 14, 2013, 09:11:26 PM »
While most of us were working on our new route "The Inn Crowd," Shake and Bake saw a perfect, on sight lead today by a person who is six weeks shy of his 73rd birthday. He led all three pitches. Mudworm "floated" every pitch behind him.

I have no doubt that this is the age record for leading this route (and it probably always will be).

While this leader understands that the 2007 guidebook maxes out at three stars on any given route, he pronounced Shake and Bake as a "five star" climb. He also led both pitches of Lava Falls two years ago and thought is was among the best face climbs he'd ever done.

Great day.

squiddo

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Re: Age Record Set for Shake and Bake
« Reply #1 on: December 14, 2013, 09:56:58 PM »
A great day indeed
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber

mungeclimber

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Re: Age Record Set for Shake and Bake
« Reply #2 on: December 14, 2013, 11:03:22 PM »
Sweet!
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

clink

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Re: Age Record Set for Shake and Bake
« Reply #3 on: December 15, 2013, 06:41:57 AM »

"I have no doubt that this is the age record for leading this route (and it probably always will be)."

Brad, I think that record will be broken, by the 72 year old climber himself. They stopped at Lava to chat with Aaron and myself.


 My assessment is;

He is probably going to wake up on his 90th B-day and tell his mirror that it's lying. Then with a "be damned if I don't" look in his eye, lead a poorly protected 5.10, or a well protected 5.12.

For his 100th get'm a crash pad.

PS: If he wants a friendly wrestling match, say no thanks.

Causing trouble when not climbing.

mudworm

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Re: Age Record Set for Shake and Bake
« Reply #4 on: December 15, 2013, 09:25:06 PM »
Jon/clink, that was funny!

I had the honor of witnessing Ron's historical, record breaking, ascent of Shake and Bake. Being an attentive belayer, I only took action shots of him climbing when I was still on the ground. The route is very spicy and this photo here of the first pitch shows it if you can see the rope that runs horizontally.



As if the route was not spicy enough, he skipped two bolts. Okay, he missed two (the 1st one on the 2nd pitch and the 3rd one on the 3rd pitch) . I took photos of them while following to show him after the climb. The funny thing is, he voiced his disapproval that there was no bolt when a bolt could have been put in at a good stance. Those rustic hangers sure look discrete -- I didn't see them until my nose was pointing at them when I was at the stances. Considering Ron is so much taller than me, they were probably in front of his chest.
Inch by inch, I will get there.

mungeclimber

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Re: Age Record Set for Shake and Bake
« Reply #5 on: December 15, 2013, 11:07:49 PM »
are you kidding me? Ron did it, and you're saying he did it more run out than actually bolted?

That's gotta be a first too.

wow
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mynameismud

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Re: Age Record Set for Shake and Bake
« Reply #6 on: December 16, 2013, 05:43:47 AM »
Very inspiring.  Hope to be somewhere close to this level at 70.
Here's to sweat in your eye

mungeclimber

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Re: Age Record Set for Shake and Bake
« Reply #7 on: December 16, 2013, 09:55:56 AM »
Call in January if you need a belay.  :)
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mudworm

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Re: Age Record Set for Shake and Bake
« Reply #8 on: December 16, 2013, 10:03:02 AM »
Munge, not sure if you meant to be funny with that comment, but I laughed when reading it in the context.  ;D

But wait, don't you dare to joke about age with Mr. Mud!  >:(
Inch by inch, I will get there.

squiddo

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Re: Age Record Set for Shake and Bake
« Reply #9 on: December 16, 2013, 10:03:42 AM »
are you kidding me? Ron did it, and you're saying he did it more run out than actually bolted?

That's gotta be a first too.

wow

I seem to recall Denicola skipping a bolt on the second. Crushers....
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber

squiddo

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Re: Age Record Set for Shake and Bake
« Reply #10 on: December 16, 2013, 10:05:00 AM »
Munge, not sure if you meant to be funny with that comment, but I laughed when reading it in the context.  ;D

But wait, don't you dare to joke about age with Mr. Mud!  >:(


HA I just got that joke. Wait for it.....DIE!
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber

mungeclimber

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Re: Age Record Set for Shake and Bake
« Reply #11 on: December 16, 2013, 11:01:33 AM »
no joke intended, but funny in hindsight. lol

If I'm not travelling for work that last weekend might be a good weekend to hit pinns.

That or I'm clipping bolts in the Owens for my bday.



On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Aaron McDonald

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Re: Age Record Set for Shake and Bake
« Reply #12 on: December 16, 2013, 01:12:00 PM »
OK this guy is no joke! He said he does Crack-a-Go-Go every year for his birthday. Here is evidence on his 68th.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=779637

Amazing! I only hope someday I can trad lead 11c.

mynameismud

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Re: Age Record Set for Shake and Bake
« Reply #13 on: December 16, 2013, 01:13:28 PM »
he did it last year as well.
Here's to sweat in your eye

Brad Young

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Re: Age Record Set for Shake and Bake
« Reply #14 on: December 16, 2013, 01:16:21 PM »
Yes, clean lead and fun day. Here's the link to the 72nd birthday lead:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2064335/Ron-Skelton-72nd-Birthday-Perfect-Lead-of-Crack-a-Go-Go

waldo

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Re: Age Record Set for Shake and Bake
« Reply #15 on: December 16, 2013, 01:31:34 PM »
Skipping bolts on that 3rd pitch adds quite a bit of pucker factor!  Congratulations!

Aaron McDonald

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Re: Age Record Set for Shake and Bake
« Reply #16 on: December 16, 2013, 01:45:31 PM »
Skipping bolts on that 3rd pitch adds quite a bit of pucker factor!  Congratulations!

Waldo,

The gauntlet has been thrown down. I would be honored to belay you up Shake and Bake anytime!

waldo

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Re: Age Record Set for Shake and Bake
« Reply #17 on: December 16, 2013, 02:57:49 PM »
Aaron, hang in there.  I'm working on getting older!

F4?

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Re: Age Record Set for Shake and Bake
« Reply #18 on: December 16, 2013, 05:52:02 PM »
What's up with folks missing bolts on that route? Especially them new SS glue-ins that will not blend it.

As Squiddo said...Crushers!
I'm not worthy.

Brad Young

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Re: Age Record Set for Shake and Bake
« Reply #19 on: December 16, 2013, 06:13:32 PM »
Dennis and I had assured Ron that ALL the bolts on the second and third pitches had been replaced (I thought that's what you guys told me, and Dennis was there and agreed). The ones he missed were ones that hadn't been replaced, and for which he wasn't looking! (Although you'd think after missing one on the second pitch he would have been more careful on the third!)