Author Topic: The Inn Crowd  (Read 569396 times)

F4?

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Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #100 on: January 17, 2014, 06:27:03 PM »
Quote
Rob wants you to stash beer for Sunday. Please

Agreed. A mutual location in the shade needs to be established.
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JC w KC redux

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Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #101 on: January 20, 2014, 09:42:06 AM »
Hope it is getting some traffic today while I sit at home and pout without a partner - I tried to recruit to no avail.
My right heel is still a bit angry at me anyway - I think I'll take it for a walk on the beach.

Final stats on the routes:
A total of 29 bolts placed - 30 bolts used - One replaced after it was a spinner.
Three rap stations with chains - two of the stations (The Inn Crowd) have a third "convenience" bolt.
Total climbing length is just over 300 feet for the three pitches - The Inn Crowd pitch 1 = 115feet (10 bolts), pitch 2 = 75 feet (6 bolts) and the extra sweet Brosseau Finish is 105 feet (8 bolts).

You might be able to fry bacon and eggs at the P1 belay today.
 
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Uncle Stinky

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Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #102 on: January 20, 2014, 11:05:09 AM »
Home sick for the second day, I feel for you.   Planned to do Feather Canyon today but doing household chores.

squiddo

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Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #103 on: January 20, 2014, 11:08:26 AM »
Bummer- if it happened I'd say bring a bolt kit!! Baaaad bolts
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
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JC w KC redux

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Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #104 on: January 20, 2014, 11:35:54 AM »
Home sick for the second day, I feel for you.   Planned to do Feather Canyon today but doing household chores.

Bummer you're sick - lots of stuff going around right now.
I want to do FC too.
I'll try to remember to talk to Bruce and Clint about the bad bolts on it Wednesday.
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mj

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Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #105 on: November 19, 2014, 09:04:20 PM »
Hi all!  My name is Matt, and I ran into a bunch of you a couple of weeks ago at the west-side parking lot. Brad, JC, KC and possibly some others?

Anyway, I was with a group of 4, we mentioned heading over to climb the Inn Crowd route later in the day, and were asked to give an opinion on route here on the forums.  You are all a brave group asking for someone's opinion online, so it's the least I can do to offer one :)

We spent the morning climbing around on the flumes, and then split up in the afternoon.  Rachel and I split off to the Inn Crowd, while the other two went after Lava Falls.  Only we were short one rope in the group and had to hike back to the car to get an extra rope and didn't make it to the base of the climb until late afternoon.  The directions here were good, we found the route without much trouble.  Which is saying a lot.  I have a bad habit of making extra long approaches and then getting off-route. 

We climbed both pitches, but were running out of daylight so we didn't get a chance for the alternate finish  It looks like a lot of fun, I'll have to return to get it.  It was weird climbing on such a well-protected route at Pinns.  I don't think I have anything original to say about the climb.  Good exposure and it was fun cruising up the Balconies.  First time I've ever climbed up there.  Great addition of a moderate multi-pitch climb in the park. 

I kinda hate myself for saying it, but I can only give the route 2 stars.  Rock quality on P2 especially was sub-par.  I'm curious how well it'll hold up to traffic.  Not that it was the worst rock (you know, like the upper band on Machete), but there were a lot of hollow bits.  And a lot of stuff coming down on rappel.  I'm glad the route traverses, I'm glad there's no reason for anyone to be at the base of the cliff, and I certainly wouldn't want to be climbing over another party.

One big caveat.. the belay station at the end of P1 is worth 3 stars and then some.  Amazing standing on that giant load stone and watching the park.  I'd climb the pitch just to have lunch there.  Coming down, we sat on the load stone and watched the sunset before heading down.  Awesome ending to the day.

A huge thanks to EVERYONE here who helped build this route.  It's a serious addition to the Pinnacles cannon, and deserves a lot respect.

Hope to see you all out there sometime again!

JC w KC redux

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Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #106 on: November 19, 2014, 09:14:42 PM »
Thanks for the feedback Matt.
I have to say I prefer the alternate finish - both the climbing and the rock quality are superior imo.
Sounds like you had fun. We spotted you from the High Peaks and still managed to watch from the parking lot with binocs. You were sitting on top and she was rapping.
As with any new Pinns route it will take some time to clean up.
It is also pretty easy to deviate from the exact line we followed stance to stance - enough to get into some untrafficked territory. We joked about being able to set up a picnic table at the belay. You'll have to check out The Hand p1 belay.





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Brad Young

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Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #107 on: November 19, 2014, 09:24:47 PM »
With Matt's input it sounds like two out of three stars is a good consensus? I agree with everything you said Matt, especially about that belay.

I have yet to get on it since we finished it. I'd like to see it now, after it's been rained on a bit (I only climbed it when it still had drill dust and dirt everywhere).

J.C., maybe we should do it again during this year's Inn weekend. I know, we can sleep in with our wives, have a great breakfast, get a leisurely start and, in the process, make Aaron and Clink jealous all over again...

squiddo

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Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #108 on: November 19, 2014, 09:27:19 PM »
Good route put up by great people in an amazing location
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber

mynameismud

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Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #109 on: November 19, 2014, 09:43:56 PM »
Hi, Matt
Welcome to the Forum
Here's to sweat in your eye

clink

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Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #110 on: November 20, 2014, 05:11:59 AM »
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I know, we can sleep in with our wives, have a great breakfast, get a leisurely start and

And that is why we dubbed it the "Sleeping Inn Crowd"

Not once did we see you guys in the parking lot. Planning on checking it out on Sunday.

Causing trouble when not climbing.

F4?

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Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #111 on: November 21, 2014, 01:22:05 PM »
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And that is why we dubbed it the "Sleeping Inn Crowd"

All hail the king of comebacks!
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F4?

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Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #112 on: November 22, 2014, 12:50:21 PM »
maybe the sleeping in the rain crowd.

the inn does have a nice hot tub and fireplace.....
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Aaron McDonald

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Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #113 on: November 24, 2014, 09:33:54 AM »
Beautiful weather yesterday!

Cochran following on The Sleeping Inn Crowd.


Zoom in... Mike, Todd and John in his full regalia on top.


The base of the Inn Crowd....Look at the bones!


NOAL

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Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #114 on: November 24, 2014, 01:06:18 PM »
^^oh, you discovered where I like to grab some shade to eat my KFC lunch.

JC w KC redux

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Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #115 on: November 24, 2014, 05:11:34 PM »
^^oh, you discovered where I like to grab some shade to eat my KFC lunch.

Good one Noal :)

Here's a few more pics from yesterday with a slight thread drift

Aaron took lead honors or was he clink’s rope bitch?





clink at the first bolt I placed…I believe





I was feeling Desperate for an onsight, so I Abandoned the Inn Crowd and climbed the ramp above them…
Desperate Abandon 5.6R





Kat followed the spongy damp goodness





The description says: After three hundred feet, pass a very deep water streak on the left.  Belay at a single bolt on the main wall, above/to the right of and outside of the streak.

I’d seen this POS (star dryvin with an SMC death hanger) on previous occasions - while working on The Inn Crowd - but didn’t realize how small it is – a ¼” Star Dryvin (not sure I have ever seen another one of these at Pinns)





Needless to say, I thought it wise for Kat to stay at the base/entrance to Gold Line and belay there while I continued up and used the belay bolt as lead pro…

I’m at the second bolt here wondering how much additional therapy I’ll eventually need…





2nd bolt on Desperate Abandon 5.6R - for the crux move (you're gonna die!)





I had my tools to replace the bolts on this route but after climbing it, I decided it isn't worth the bother - may those that follow in my footsteps enjoy it as much as I did. Brad, Jim, Kat and I are probably the only people to ever climb this "found" route.


Later we enjoyed some relaxing fun at Smiling Simian with the whole gang and Caleb’s boys

Colton follows Smiling Simian 5.0





Layton follows Smiling Simian 5.0


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clink

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Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #116 on: November 24, 2014, 05:51:14 PM »
Quote
Beautiful weather yesterday!

Cochran following on The Sleeping Inn Crowd.

Nice Aaron, Brad said he was going to have to get back at you for the name slaughtering. >:D
Causing trouble when not climbing.

clink

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Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #117 on: November 24, 2014, 05:56:50 PM »
Quote
but didn’t realize how small it is – maybe a ¼” Star Dryvin?

Iffy looking, JC.

Quote
Aaron took lead honors or was he clink’s rope bitch?

You are my only current official rope bitch.  ;D
Causing trouble when not climbing.

JC w KC redux

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Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #118 on: November 24, 2014, 07:22:48 PM »
Iffy looking, JC.

You are my only current official rope bitch.  ;D


Actually clink - that first one is the "good" bolt ;)

and just to clarify a couple definitions:

Rope gun - a bad ass climber who leads stuff you can't - so you can follow...

Rope bitch - a climber crazy enough to lead the stuff you could but don't want to :)
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mungeclimber

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Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #119 on: November 24, 2014, 07:35:02 PM »
nice pics JC
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge