The Inn Crowd

[Brad Young]

Brad-

can't wait to try it. So I'm curious as I don't believe you have installed 3 bolt anchors on your other lines. Any particular reason, rock quality, etc?

Two reasons for two different three-bolt anchors:

At the top of the first pitch I put in an absolutely bomber (nearly granite hard rock), perfectly equalized two-bolt anchor. But, knowing that we'd have up to four people up there at once, and seeing that there was a lot of room there to stand on big lodestones, I put in a third bolt 30 inches to the left to accommodate multiple people (yes, a convenience bolt).

Yesterday, at the top of the second pitch I started a first bolt from a stance in what I thought was OK to good rock. The hole then went to hell, and while I was able to place a long, stainless Rawl-type bolt that tightened up nicely, it's not a great bolt. So I used that first bolt to hold me while I placed two more bolts (one good and one great) a little higher. These two upper bolts have the rappel chains; we didn't even bother putting chain on the not as good bolt.

Whatever happens, the belay bolts have got to be good. I think I had four failed holes after the first, not so good bolt at the top (maybe five extra inches of drilling for failed holes - I was pretty damn spent by the time that anchor was done). As indicated above though, I did eventually get in two belay quality bolts.

[squiddo]

Two reasons for two different three-bolt anchors:

At the top of the first pitch I put in an absolutely bomber (nearly granite hard rock), perfectly equalized two-bolt anchor. But, knowing that we'd have up to four people up there at once, and seeing that there was a lot of room there to stand on big lodestones, I put in a third bolt 30 inches to the left to accommodate multiple people (yes, a convenience bolt).

Yesterday, at the top of the second pitch I started a first bolt from a stance in what I thought was OK to good rock. The hole then went to hell, and while I was able to place a long, stainless Rawl-type bolt that tightened up nicely, it's not a great bolt. So I used that first bolt to hold me while I placed two more bolts (one good and one great) a little higher. The these two upper bolts have the rappel chains; we didn't even bother putting chain on the not as good bolt.

Whatever happens, the belay bolts have got to be good. I think I had four failed holes after the first, not so good bolt at the top (maybe five extra inches of drilling for failed holes - I was pretty damn spent by the time that anchor was done). As indicated above though, I did eventually get in two belay quality bolts.

Thanks Brad and I was wondering if that was the culprit. Appreciate the bomber gear

[mungeclimber]

Can one safely connect the p2 anchor on IC to DA?

[Brad Young]

Can one safely connect the p2 anchor on IC to DA?

Yes, absolutely. When Joel came up to the top of the second pitch of The Inn Crowd he scrambled easily up on to the Desperate Abandon class three/four ramp. All of the class five on Desperate Abandon is above that point, so continuing up Desperate Abandon might be seen as a "third" pitch so to speak.

Since Joel was up on that ramp, I had him check to see if a Desperate Abandon climber could see the bolt anchor on The Inn Crowd. He couldn't see our bolts from that route (although from our top anchor one can easily see the one protection bolt on Desperate Abandon).

[Brian Keefe]

Glad to run into you guys after the FA. Looking forward to getting on the climb!

[Brad Young]

Brian, you made it! Welcome to the site.

It was nice to meet some young folks who seem to have a great sense of adventure. We'll hope to see more of you and of Carrie and Mason. Meanwhile, have fun on your road (air?) trip.

[JC w KC redux]

Glad to run into you guys after the FA. Looking forward to getting on the climb!

Dude! I remember my first post

[squiddo]

Dude! I remember my first post

Lol so do we

[JC w KC redux]

It looks like the post counter isn't advancing again!

[squiddo]

It looks like the post counter isn't advancing again!

You crack me up, maybe mr mud will cheat it

[mynameismud]

set them all to zero

[squiddo]

Lol but that's like the meanest thing!

[clink]

Congrats all!, on putting up a well protected for its rating route.
I had a bolt crap out on me this weekend too, bummer.
We might need a negative "star" rating for Pinns. Like 5.8 -2.5 stars.

[Brad Young]

Congrats all!, on putting up a well protected for its rating route.
I had a bolt crap out on me this weekend too, bummer.
We might need a negative "star" rating for Pinns. Like 5.8 -2.5 stars.

Actually Jon, I've used two informal "negative star" ratings for years.

If a route isn't very good (i.e. one negative star) I've called it "N.W.T.M." (Not Worth the Metal).

More commonly I skip right to "negative two stars" using "A.T.D.S." (Absolute Total Dog S… - well you get the idea). There is actually  a toprope route in the Sew What Needles called A.T.D.S. You oughta go climb it for a true "taste."  

[squiddo]

[quote author=Brad Young link=topic=1977.msg24867#msg24867 date=1389115218

More commonly I skip right to "negative two stars" using "A.T.D.S." (Absolute Total Dog S… - well you get the idea). There is actually  a toprope route in the Sew What Needles called A.T.D.S. You oughta go climb it for a true "taste."  
[/quote]

Gotta disagree, I've never tasted dog crap and I'm fairly certain I would not like the flavor.....

[salad]

suh-weet!  cant wait to get on it.

[mynameismud]

moving north?

[MUCCI]

Cool line,

I remember Brad trying to be all sneaky on the trip up to do the "800 club", scoping and poking around over there...

Way to pull it all together, that route looks sweet.

[Brad Young]

Cool line,

I remember Brad trying to be all sneaky on the trip up to do the "800 club", scoping and poking around over there...

Way to pull it all together, that route looks sweet.

Brad isn't "sneaky."

And BTW, changing the subject for a moment. Vicki showed me your blurb on Bookface with the engagement photo. If I recall, you said something under the photo along the lines of "[you were] really looking forward to the rest of the photos."

Dude, I'm a lot, lot older than you are, so let me give you some thoughts about what I saw and what I've seen: First, I think you've made some damn good decisions. Second, I think you're very lucky. Third, I think that was in fact a good photo.  But, fourth, I think you should have phrased your comment differently; it should have been about how you were "really looking forward to the rest of your life."

You're headed to a great place man.

[mungeclimber]

Brad,

That was Laura's comment shared on Josh's page.

omg, old guys shouldn't tech vicariously.