Author Topic: The Inn Crowd  (Read 603774 times)

waldo

  • Mudders
  • **
  • Posts: 711
    • Chaos Gate
Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #60 on: January 12, 2014, 05:17:43 PM »
I usually charge for bolt testing when I throw in the half gainer.

JC w KC redux

  • Moderator
  • *****
  • Posts: 6634
  • my density has brought me to you...
Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #61 on: January 12, 2014, 07:34:08 PM »
Waldo - glad you are okay.
Shout out to Brad for another great weekend.
We had a great day climbing back up and getting in the anchor for the alternate water chute finish.
We had the pleasure of watching a young couple - Peter and Mikka - lead p1 of The Inn Crowd as we were hiking out.
We couldn't stick around to watch them do either of the upper pitches - I doubt they had time to do both before sundown.
They were both at the p1 anchor when we got back to the parking lot.
I'll be headed back up there this coming weekend to put some chains on the anchor we did today and apply some finishing touches elsewhere. It should be completely done just in time for the closures.

Brad drilling the anchor for the water chute finish





Peter leads The Inn Crowd





Peter at The Inn Crowd's pitch 1 anchor


One wheel shy of "normal"

Brad Young

  • Grand Master
  • ***
  • Posts: 6859
Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #62 on: January 12, 2014, 09:03:25 PM »
The new route we completed today is an alternative second pitch to The Inn Crowd. It shares the first pitch of The Inn Crowd, and the first three bolts of that route's second pitch. It then diverges right, into the obvious water streak and continues past five more bolts (eight total for the new second pitch). It has a separate two-bolt anchor.

It's 5.7, and, like The Inn Crowd, it's pretty fun (two out of three stars). The crux is a fairly steep but featured headwall in the streak. We named it "The Brosseau Finish."

The name comes from the proprietors of "The Inn," Jan and Jon Brosseau. These are two really great people; excellent hosts who serve tasty breakfasts, provide wonderful company, and make excellent wine (wine which has "The Brosseau Finish"). They've become very good friends over the years.

Here's a revised photo topo showing also the new route:




I'll add a route description to the new routes sticky when I get a chance.



JC w KC redux

  • Moderator
  • *****
  • Posts: 6634
  • my density has brought me to you...
Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #63 on: January 13, 2014, 10:03:55 AM »
Nice job on the photo/topo Brad!

Encouraging Peter and Mikka to post their feedback on The Inn Crowd and whichever finish they chose.

signed,
the crux thief :)
One wheel shy of "normal"

Aaron McDonald

  • Administrator
  • **
  • Posts: 326
Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #64 on: January 13, 2014, 03:54:40 PM »
So I have a suggestion for your route name "The Sleeping Inn Crowd"

Clink didn't we show up at the Inn just before 8 and tried to wait for sleepy heads to get in gear?  I think that name seems really apropos.

JC w KC redux

  • Moderator
  • *****
  • Posts: 6634
  • my density has brought me to you...
Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #65 on: January 13, 2014, 04:15:17 PM »
New Rule - you can't climb The Inn Crowd or The Brosseau Finish unless you first lead either Flies on A Pile, Tiburcio's Ambush or Tiburcio's Upper.

Brad leads Flies on a Pile  :yikes:





from the dark side



One wheel shy of "normal"

Brad Young

  • Grand Master
  • ***
  • Posts: 6859
Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #66 on: January 13, 2014, 04:33:26 PM »

Clink didn't we show up at the Inn just before 8 and tried to wait for sleepy heads to get in gear?  I think that name seems really apropos.


To borrow "the" phrase from The Master himself:

DIE!

Brad Young

  • Grand Master
  • ***
  • Posts: 6859
Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #67 on: January 13, 2014, 04:36:46 PM »

New Rule - you can't climb The Inn Crowd or The Brosseau Finish unless you first lead either Flies on A Pile, Tiburcio's Ambush or Tiburcio's Upper.


Can I object to a brand new rule?

Too much pants-crapping from leading Flies on a Pile might result in a smelly The Inn Crowd (I know this from personal experience).

So they might best be climbed in reverse order, The Inn Crowd first.

JC w KC redux

  • Moderator
  • *****
  • Posts: 6634
  • my density has brought me to you...
Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #68 on: January 13, 2014, 04:50:17 PM »
Can I object to a brand new rule?

Too much pants-crapping from leading Flies on a Pile might result in a smelly The Inn Crowd (I know this from personal experience).

So they might best be climbed in reverse order, The Inn Crowd first.

Well I guess it Depends. Did either photo give you a shiver? :)
One wheel shy of "normal"

mungeclimber

  • PermaBan
  • ***
  • Posts: 6722
    • http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com
Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #69 on: January 13, 2014, 06:59:42 PM »
masters of "mud"?
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

clink

  • Meanderthal
  • ****
  • Posts: 4119
Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #70 on: January 13, 2014, 07:46:51 PM »
Been popping the cork a bit?
Suggestions for your new finish "The Sleeping Inn Hangover Finish" or "Jan and Jon Have the Good Stuff" or "I know a guy and gal..."
Cheers!

BTW. Maybe "Flies on a Pile" was to subliminal for John and Brad. Congrats on surviving the (second?) ascent. 
Causing trouble when not climbing.

Brad Young

  • Grand Master
  • ***
  • Posts: 6859
Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #71 on: January 13, 2014, 08:14:27 PM »

BTW. Maybe "Flies on a Pile" was to subliminal for John and Brad. Congrats on surviving the (second?) ascent.


Yeah, I'm quite sure it was the second. Likely the last ascent too? Clint told me they named it that for a reason. But, now I've done every 5.9 in the Park in good style (except your new one?).

I was thinking about whether it would make a list of my scariest 10 Pinns leads, and I concluded not. I think maybe the top 25 or 35. Maybe. Pretty scary, but now done and over with.

Peter303

  • LoadStone Lovers
  • *****
  • Posts: 2
Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #72 on: January 15, 2014, 05:12:18 PM »
So I'm Peter (a first time poster) and the climber from the previous pictures, we did the "standard" pitches of The Inn Crowd last Sunday. The first pitch was a solid length to the logical belay (5.6**). Most bolts probably could take an extended alpine draw, I used mine up early and made some drag through the later bolts. The belay off the lodestone is cool and pretty comfortable. Mikka lead the second pitch and thought that was the standout even though its somewhat easier.


Mikka starting up the second pitch, nice 5.5**


The dramatic first pitch rappel as dusk falls. 

I thought the bolting was pretty reasonable and nothing to apologize for. I'll be back for the The Brosseau Finish at some point.

mynameismud

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 5991
    • Mudncrud
Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #73 on: January 15, 2014, 05:14:11 PM »
Nice pics, and welcome to the forum!
Here's to sweat in your eye

Brad Young

  • Grand Master
  • ***
  • Posts: 6859
Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #74 on: January 15, 2014, 05:21:52 PM »

I thought the bolting was pretty reasonable and nothing to apologize for. I'll be back for the The Brosseau Finish at some point.


Hello Peter. It was a really nice surprise to meet both of you out there.

The route description's "apology" for the close bolting was made with tongue firmly in cheek   ;D

mungeclimber

  • PermaBan
  • ***
  • Posts: 6722
    • http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com
Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #75 on: January 15, 2014, 07:49:05 PM »
Welcome to the sph forum, even though it is somewhat out of season.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

squiddo

  • Pin Heads
  • *
  • Posts: 2384
  • If it itches, scratch it.
Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #76 on: January 15, 2014, 08:02:59 PM »
Welcome to the sph forum, even though it is somewhat out of season.
;D
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber

mynameismud

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 5991
    • Mudncrud
Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #77 on: January 15, 2014, 08:37:46 PM »
Welcome to the sph forum, even though it is somewhat out of season.

Nice
Here's to sweat in your eye

F4?

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 6176
Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #78 on: January 15, 2014, 09:04:13 PM »
Quote
Welcome to the sph forum, even though it is somewhat out of season.
Does that mean I can't get banned from Sph? Mr. Mud would never ban me.

Right??
I'm not worthy.

mungeclimber

  • PermaBan
  • ***
  • Posts: 6722
    • http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com
Re: The Inn Crowd
« Reply #79 on: January 16, 2014, 12:06:28 PM »
I thought you were already banned?  ;D


btw, are you climbing ready yet?


On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge