The Inn Crowd

[Brad Young]

Might as well start a thread about the route itself. We still have to finish it, and there will be more photos and then, eventually an addition to the new routes thread:

Tricia following Steve's lead:




Steve's hands (while he finishes the last moves on the first pitch):




John drilling on the second pitch:




Laura leading the first pitch:

[Brad Young]

Damn! If its only going to be 5.7 maybe I should freesolo the rest of it and let you know what to expect.

Yeah, go for it. But, given the amount of rock we've knocked off so far, do me a favor and google "California holographic will" before you set out (and name me in that will).

Actually, I don't believe you'd be so class-less as to steal a project that we've put so much work into so far, it just isn't you.

[squiddo]

Yeah, go for it. But, given the amount of rock we've knocked off so far, do me a favor and google "California holographic will" before you set out (and name me in that will).

Actually, I don't believe you'd be so class-less as to steal a project that we've put so much work into so far, it just isn't you.

Classic brad response- been too long man!

[F4?]

Yeah, go for it. But, given the amount of rock we've knocked off so far, do me a favor and google "California holographic will" before you set out (and name me in that will).

say it that one of them do-it yer self will sites??

I already get Squiddo's cams.

[JC w KC redux]

KC did a solid lead to the belay today - first onsight of 2014 for her - and a proud lead.
I followed and led back out beyond the belay, brushed some more and put loctite on all the bolts that needed it.
Everything is solid and ready for this weekend's sojourn - can't wait to push this thing higher

Brad's on deck in the bolter's box

[Brad Young]

From Wikipedia: "The In Crowd" is a 1964 song written by Billy Page and arranged by his brother Gene that was originally performed by Dobie Gray on his album Dobie Gray Sings for In Crowders That Go Go. Gray's powerful Motown-like version, complete with brass section, reached #13 in the US and #25 in the UK in 1965.

I've heard it many, many times, and yet I had no idea that Dobie Gray did this song. I had no idea that he even had any hits before "Drift Away" in the late 1970s.

Of course here it refers to the group that started the first ascent; we were staying at the Inn at the Pinnacles that weekend.

[MUCCI]

Sweet progress, taking it down this weekend?

[Brad Young]

Sweet progress, taking it down this weekend?

As my beloved Victrola says: "The Lord willing and the creek don't rise..."

Either way, we'll have some fun.

[squiddo]

As my beloved Victrola says: "The Lord willing and the creek don't rise..."

Either way, we'll have some fun.

Ahhhh you married well my friend

[JC w KC redux]

Brad, Joel and I finished The Inn Crowd today. A total of 22 bolts placed (two - 3 bolt belays) - Brad did 12 (both belays), JC 7, Mr. Mud 1, Jim Mc 1, Alan 1, Joel 1/2. I'll let Brad fill in the blanks - just wanted to give a BIG shout out to team Young - woohoo!

[Brad Young]

Now that is a great photo - right down to the smile.

Brad, Joel and I finished The Inn Crowd today. A total of 22 bolts placed(two - 3 bolt belays) - Brad did 12 (both belays), JC 7, Mr. Mud 1, Jim Mc 1, Alan 1, Joel 1/2. I'll let Brad fill in the blanks - just wanted to give a BIG shout out to team Young - woohoo!

[Brad Young]

This may be my favorite first ascent of all those I've done at Pinns. Long, well protected, great views, good exposure, a first pitch belay on a beach-ball sized lodestone that is best described as a wonderful perch. It's now been climbed a bunch (up and down over the days of working on it) and I think there is a good consensus of 5.6 and two stars. With some rain (if ever) it'll get cleaned up of drill and rock dust and dirt; then it will not only climb pretty, it'll look pretty.

Got buzzed a bunch by condors while we were climbing on it on Saturday - I swear one flew within ten feet of us on the first pitch belay.

Here's a photo from the West Side parking of the south end of the Balconies Upper Tier (taken in the morning to accentuate the shadows):





Here's the same shot made into a photo-topo showing The Inn Crowd and the several new/newly discovered routes near it:





I'll prepare and post a formal entry in the new routes sticky later today.

[squiddo]

Love the adventure gents and can't wait to climb them. Thanks for the continued love affair with the Pinns.

[mungeclimber]

sweet

[mynameismud]

Whoo Hooo

[Uncle Stinky]

Looks very fun!  I thought it might be up in that area from a couple of earlier photos.  I did not see anybody climbing up there on Friday so I guess you finished up over the weekend. 

[Brad Young]

Actually, as I think about it, I'd call Los Banditos my favorite FA at Pinns. The Inn Crowd is second though, it was just a great series of adventures.

(And yes Jeff, we finished over Saturday and Sunday.)

[JC w KC redux]

Actually, as I think about it, I'd call Los Banditos my favorite FA at Pinns.
The Inn Crowd is second though, it was just a great series of adventures.

That means TIC is your favorite free climb AND I bet it's the only multi-pitch that people can sit and watch in its entirety from their cars - it's like a drive-in movie!:)

[Brad Young]

Here's the written description of the route (I just posted this in the new routes sticky too):

711.6  The Inn Crowd  5.6 **  The Inn Crowd starts 100 yards to the south (climber's right) of If We Bolt It They Will Come. It starts to the right of the class three/four ramp which leads up to the routes Desperate Abandon and Gold Line. Look for a slight, up-and-right weakness/ramp that allows passage between upper and lower rotten headwalls. The first bolt on the route can be seen about 20 feet above the ground (the climbing to this bolt is very easy). A total of ten bolts on the first pitch lead up and right (at about a 45 degree angle) 115 feet to a three bolt belay on a beach ball size lodestone (bring and use slings on this pitch). The second pitch continues right past one bolt and then continues straight up past five more to another three bolt anchor (six bolts total on this pitch). It is 75 feet from the top of the first pitch to the top of the second. Descend by scrambling down the Desperate Abandon ramp (start with a very exposed scramble from the second pitch bolt anchor onto the ramp), or by rappel. Note, while this route can be rappelled with one rope, and while the rappel from the top of the second pitch to the top of the first is only 75 feet, the rappel from the top of the first pitch to the ground is 118 feet (the last 50 of which are completely overhanging) and this second rappel requires a 70 meter rope! The Inn Crowd is a very sunny climb; it's in the sun from early morning until the sun sets. It is a good route for cold days. Finally, two further items of explanation: First, the second pitch of this route ends at a stance on a steeper section of wall just below the ramp and about 20 feet below the one protection bolt on the route Desperate Abandon. The route ends here so that no bolts were added to or within sight of Desperate Abandon and so that the well protected nature of The Inn Crowd was not "diluted" by joining/finishing on the fairly run out upper part of that route. Second, the well protected nature of The Inn Crowd should be understood (and forgiven) since the combined ages of the first ascentionists exceed 350 years. FA Party:  Brad Young, John Cook, Kathy Cook, Tricia Young, Joel Primrose, Alan Nilsson, Dennis Erik Mud, Jim McConachie. FA Date: January 5, 2014. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.

[squiddo]

Brad-

can't wait to try it. So I'm curious as I don't believe you have installed 3 bolt anchors on your other lines. Any particular reason, rock quality, etc?