Author Topic: Flood Warning!  (Read 26814 times)

squiddo

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Re: Flood Warning!
« Reply #20 on: January 15, 2014, 03:26:34 PM »
Sandbag for real?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
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mungeclimber

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Re: Flood Warning!
« Reply #21 on: January 15, 2014, 03:48:01 PM »
lol, sure Brad, that will be their focus. buahahahaha
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Aaron McDonald

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Re: Flood Warning!
« Reply #22 on: January 15, 2014, 03:55:39 PM »
Has it got an anchor already? Is one pitch done?

Yes, north facing. First 2 bolt anchor is in at the top of the water streak. First pitch consensus is 5.9. The head wall looks more challenging but will be hard to judge until we get on it.

I think the name we have been kicking around is "s"

squiddo

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Re: Flood Warning!
« Reply #23 on: January 15, 2014, 03:58:18 PM »
Yes, north facing. First 2 bolt anchor is in at the top of the water streak. First pitch consensus is 5.9. The head wall looks more challenging but will be hard to judge until we get on it.

I think the name we have been kicking around is "s"

Love the name and rating
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber

Aaron McDonald

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Re: Flood Warning!
« Reply #24 on: January 15, 2014, 04:06:28 PM »
You have stood directly over it.

Brad,  think about it.

Brad Young

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Re: Flood Warning!
« Reply #25 on: January 15, 2014, 04:19:18 PM »
Brad,  think about it.

I did and I have. I know where it is. But this is your brilliant line, and I don't want to interfere and/or comment on its location until you all are done with it. (And it does look brilliant.)

Just please make it 5.10a at least  :)

mynameismud

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Re: Flood Warning!
« Reply #26 on: January 15, 2014, 04:33:32 PM »
I think I might know but not sure.  If it is what I think it is I kick myself for not starting it when I was thinking about it about 5 years ago.  Looks super good.
Here's to sweat in your eye

Aaron McDonald

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Re: Flood Warning!
« Reply #27 on: January 15, 2014, 04:53:05 PM »
I think I might know but not sure.  If it is what I think it is I kick myself for not starting it when I was thinking about it about 5 years ago.  Looks super good.

Well thanks for giving someone else a chance!

clink

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Re: Flood Warning!
« Reply #28 on: January 15, 2014, 07:51:57 PM »
I want free beer. On Sat.  Waldo gave me a free brew and made climbing an action sport. I hope the rock quality holds up for the last bit. There is a bomber stopper placement between cobbles at the high point.

Aaron, you are not allowed to hammer off holds just to make it 5.10.

We also could use the Bates rating system. 5.0 -5.9 is 3rd class, all 5.10 is 5.9, 5.12 and harder is 5.11, so every route is either an approach, 5.9 or 5.11
Causing trouble when not climbing.

F4?

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Re: Flood Warning!
« Reply #29 on: January 15, 2014, 07:54:50 PM »
Quote
We also could use the Bates rating system. 5.0 -5.9 is 3rd class, all 5.10 is 5.9, 5.12 and harder is 5.11, so every route is either an approach, 5.9 or 5.11

Where'd 5.8 go? Or is it now 5.9?
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mynameismud

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Re: Flood Warning!
« Reply #30 on: January 15, 2014, 08:40:38 PM »
I just re-read Brad's post.  Change that to 5.9 for free beer!

;)

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Brad Young

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Re: Flood Warning!
« Reply #31 on: January 15, 2014, 09:21:01 PM »

I just re-read Brad's post.


Wow, he actually reads my stuff   :crazy:

clink

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Re: Flood Warning!
« Reply #32 on: January 16, 2014, 06:09:39 AM »
F4, 5.0-(to)5.9 is an approach. what I forgot was all 5.11 is 5.10 Barry was consistent in his sandbagged ratings of the few I know.

I wasn't sure which side Mynameismud was on. Thanks for making it clear.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

mungeclimber

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Re: Flood Warning!
« Reply #33 on: January 16, 2014, 12:04:37 PM »

We also could use the Bates rating system. 5.0 -5.9 is 3rd class, all 5.10 is 5.9, 5.12 and harder is 5.11, so every route is either an approach, 5.9 or 5.11

huh, but what about 5.9+?

On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mynameismud

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Re: Flood Warning!
« Reply #34 on: January 16, 2014, 12:35:54 PM »
With Barry there was no 5.9+ since for him nothing was that hard.
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mungeclimber

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Re: Flood Warning!
« Reply #35 on: January 16, 2014, 01:31:49 PM »
ah, well good to see the rating system is internally consistent. I'd buy into it.


Viva la 3rd class!
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

F4?

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Re: Flood Warning!
« Reply #36 on: January 16, 2014, 09:10:10 PM »
5.9 works for me as I only have 10 fingers.


I still want to try Mechanic's Delight....doubt I'd get it.
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mynameismud

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Re: Flood Warning!
« Reply #37 on: January 16, 2014, 09:18:18 PM »
when I was doing that route i swear the rating changed three different times as different holds broke off.  Harder, easier, harder...

makes a good TR so do not let leading it slow you down.
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Aaron McDonald

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Re: Flood Warning!
« Reply #38 on: January 18, 2014, 09:09:59 PM »
Well?

mungeclimber

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Re: Flood Warning!
« Reply #39 on: January 18, 2014, 09:48:02 PM »
Well?
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge