I doubt these routes will see much traffic given the ease with which TT routes can be toproped.
People may also shy away when they read that the FA's were both free solos.
I hope I am wrong since I think they are both decent beginner gear leads.
The descriptions gave me some trouble yesterday.
Here are my unofficial revisions.
13.81 Dumpster 5.3 Dumpster starts 40 feet right of the bolted face route Supply Side Hamster and 50 feet left of the Tourist Trap route Pickpocket. A ramp/gully with twin cracks leads to twin chimneys. For Dumpster, follow these cracks to the base of and then up the right chimney. The crux of the route is reaching and then passing under the large, obvious chockstone near the top of that right chimney. Walk off (the Ignorable Cliffs climber’s access trail leads to the High Peaks Trail which can be used to get back around to the base of the climb). FA Party: Alan Nilsson (solo). FA Date: April 24, 2011. Source(s): Description of the route from Alan Nilsson while standing at its base.
REVISION:
The right chimney cannot be seen from below. It is capped by several large rounded chockstones.
When you get high enough to pick a chimney, there are actually three - the one on the left is a squeeze or an offwidth and the one in the middle looks tempting but harder than the one on the right. The one in the middle also has an obvious wedge-shaped chockstone near its top - but there appears to be no way to pass under it as described. There is no discernible crux - although where the description lists a crux - it is mostly dirt and pine needles underfoot. The route protects with gear up to 3 inches. The climb can be safely belayed using body position and a sturdy tree off to the side as a backup.
13.82 Dumpster Exit 5.0 Climb as for Dumpster, but below the large, obvious chockstone exit right on a horizontal ledge, then continue to the top of the cliff on an easy face. Walk off (the Ignorable Cliffs climber’s access trail leads to the High Peaks Trail which can be used to get back to the base of the climb). FA Party: Robert Behrens (solo). FA Date: April 10, 2011. Source(s): Description of the route from Robert Behrens while standing at its base.
REVISION:
The Exit is well below the chockstones at the point where you can see and choose a chimney. The horizontal ledge is actually a large platform. To "exit" and reach the platform, move right and up over several large blocks before the entrance to the chimney. From the platform, move right along an easy ledge that eventually leads to an easy and fun face. This route can also be protected with gear to 3 inches. If you lead the route, belay using body position from the platform and/or build an anchor in the vertical crack above the large blocks that lead to the platform - otherwise rope drag will become impossible - there are several cracks/slots that will trap your rope in the vicinity of the blocks.
The upper part of the climb can be safely belayed using body position and a sturdy tree off to the side as a backup.
photo taken from the top of the cliff
