Author Topic: Bleepity Bleeping Bleepy Bleep!!  (Read 18495 times)

CruxLuv

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Bleepity Bleeping Bleepy Bleep!!
« on: March 08, 2014, 07:18:18 PM »
Does Munge curse that much every time he climbs??   :o

Mucci was called every name in the book.  And he wasn't even there.

That was just for openers.
The "best" climber is the one having the most fun.

squiddo

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Re: Bleepity Bleeping Bleepy Bleep!!
« Reply #1 on: March 08, 2014, 07:25:24 PM »
Only if the BLL runs out. Ladies, cover your ears
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
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mungeclimber

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Re: Bleepity Bleeping Bleepy Bleep!!
« Reply #2 on: March 08, 2014, 08:08:30 PM »
FYJM!
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: Bleepity Bleeping Bleepy Bleep!!
« Reply #3 on: March 08, 2014, 08:19:44 PM »
FYJM!

Alas, under different circumstances that coulda' been me. An occasional blooper does emit when I climb. But I would never, ever take Mucci's name in vain, so that much is different.

What'd he do to offend, sandbag a route?

F4?

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Re: Bleepity Bleeping Bleepy Bleep!!
« Reply #4 on: March 08, 2014, 08:21:52 PM »
Likely too much slack belaying.

Mungie likes a tight belay....
I'm not worthy.

mungeclimber

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Re: Bleepity Bleeping Bleepy Bleep!!
« Reply #5 on: March 08, 2014, 08:30:50 PM »
The Wolf needs an enema.


ugh, terrifying!




oh, and Toogs Terror is not 5.fuking.2
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: Bleepity Bleeping Bleepy Bleep!!
« Reply #6 on: March 08, 2014, 08:44:24 PM »
The Wolf needs an enema.


ugh, terrifying!




oh, and Toogs Terror is not 5.fuking.2

Maybe someone is getting a little too spoiled by granite?

mynameismud

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Re: Bleepity Bleeping Bleepy Bleep!!
« Reply #7 on: March 08, 2014, 09:06:47 PM »
yep
Here's to sweat in your eye

mungeclimber

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Re: Bleepity Bleeping Bleepy Bleep!!
« Reply #8 on: March 08, 2014, 09:11:11 PM »
sequencing issue.

Should have done Pinns Friday, Tollhouse Saturday.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: Bleepity Bleeping Bleepy Bleep!!
« Reply #9 on: March 08, 2014, 09:52:36 PM »
sequencing issue.

Should have done Pinns Friday, Tollhouse Saturday.

Sounds like you'll recover quickly. Don't make that mistake again though  ;)

(If I recall correctly, Josh called The Wolf 5.7; I'm the one who added the "R" to the rating after I led it. Of course - rounding to the nearest 100 - I'm 100 years old now, and my memory may not be what I recall it once being).

mungeclimber

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Re: Bleepity Bleeping Bleepy Bleep!!
« Reply #10 on: March 08, 2014, 10:05:16 PM »
definitely R

The Escape route was tempting.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mungeclimber

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Re: Bleepity Bleeping Bleepy Bleep!!
« Reply #11 on: March 08, 2014, 10:09:33 PM »
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

JC w KC redux

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Re: Bleepity Bleeping Bleepy Bleep!!
« Reply #12 on: March 09, 2014, 02:32:32 PM »
definitely R
The Escape route was tempting.

You musta been havin' a bad day. I thought that route was well protected and fun - especially the upper "tooth".

I onsighted it, dropped the rope and Aaron led it. I don't recall either of us having any trouble.

If you want some real runout on crap rock lead Sheepish. Buckwheat's Bender is a fright fest too.
I thought by comparison with those, The Wolf should get a star.
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mungeclimber

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Re: Bleepity Bleeping Bleepy Bleep!!
« Reply #13 on: March 09, 2014, 02:50:04 PM »
I really don't recall Buckwheats being bad. it was one of the first leads I did on the West Side over 20 years ago.

Time to hang it up at Pinns, I guess.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

JC w KC redux

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Re: Bleepity Bleeping Bleepy Bleep!!
« Reply #14 on: March 09, 2014, 02:57:32 PM »
oh, and Toogs Terror is not 5.fuking.2

I "led" both pitches of Toog's Terror again with Bruce and Clint not long ago when we were rebolting. I say "led" because they are basically solos other than slung trees. I climbed between the tree and cliff both times I've led p2 and found it to be quite physical but not technically difficult. I used climbing shoes the first time and approach shoes the second time. I prefer rock over vegetable, although you get plenty of fiber no matter how you do this one (p1 and p2!). Maybe the 5.2 rating corresponds to climbing the tree alone. Kat said she bear-hugged the sucker and shimmied up. She couldn't quit talking about it afterwards - she evidently never climbed trees as a kid :)
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Bleepity Bleeping Bleepy Bleep!!
« Reply #15 on: March 09, 2014, 03:04:05 PM »
I really don't recall Buckwheats being bad. it was one of the first leads I did on the West Side over 20 years ago.
Time to hang it up at Pinns, I guess.

Dude - you musta been feelin' your oats that day - that route is loose/fractured knobs galore and groundfall potential most of the way with those super spacious bolts. Nothing pulled off - but I remember being able to wiggle a lot of holds. I floated that sucker. I remember Waldo telling me to watch out if I led it.
Sheepish is sketch most of the way - getting worse as you get higher and a definite groundfall if you blow it.
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mungeclimber

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Re: Bleepity Bleeping Bleepy Bleep!!
« Reply #16 on: March 09, 2014, 04:41:52 PM »
I "led" both pitches of Toog's Terror again with Bruce and Clint not long ago when we were rebolting. I say "led" because they are basically solos other than slung trees. I climbed between the tree and cliff both times I've led p2 and found it to be quite physical but not technically difficult. I used climbing shoes the first time and approach shoes the second time. I prefer rock over vegetable, although you get plenty of fiber no matter how you do this one (p1 and p2!). Maybe the 5.2 rating corresponds to climbing the tree alone. Kat said she bear-hugged the sucker and shimmied up. She couldn't quit talking about it afterwards - she evidently never climbed trees as a kid :)

Just to the point about the rating - the 5.2 on p2 is dead vertical, even with a stem start. The only 5.2 that is dead vertical that I know of would be an aluminum ladder. A bark covered tree, not so much. I'm not saying it's not do-able, or that it is all that hard. There just is no way that it is 5.2. (and to clarify "physical" is something that is incorporated into ratings).

Brad, by any chance do you recall when we did that? I'm pretty we did that the same day you lead Powerslave.

On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: Bleepity Bleeping Bleepy Bleep!!
« Reply #17 on: March 09, 2014, 05:35:07 PM »

Brad, by any chance do you recall when we did that? I'm pretty we did that the same day you lead Powerslave.


My journal says I soloed Toogs Terror on January 25, 1992.

I did lead Powerslave, with you, on February 12, 1995 (but I only enter a climb in my journal when I first do it in good style, so we may have done Toog's Terror on this day too).

Wow, looking at my journal, I see that I free soloed Toog's Alligator and Toog's Tarbaby too that year (both on November 21).

waldo

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Re: Bleepity Bleeping Bleepy Bleep!!
« Reply #18 on: March 09, 2014, 05:59:57 PM »
Toog?  I sling the tree, though I much prefer the longer, better climbing to the left with the 5.9 finish.  Not weird at all.

CruxLuv

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Re: Bleepity Bleeping Bleepy Bleep!!
« Reply #19 on: March 09, 2014, 06:27:00 PM »
We talked about slinging the tree but with the amount of sway it displayed and the lack of earth on her downside, decided it might be a liability rather than an asset.
The "best" climber is the one having the most fun.