Darwin Awards

[mungeclimber]

Umbrella jumping! sweet!  You have to really believe to make that happen!


You ripped out of the wall, those rivets?  Josh, bomber, eh?



Brad, to your point about drill and fill with good stuff, having seen how fast a shorty can go in, I'm leaning toward shorty bolts for big wall FAs, interspersed with good belays. Josh has me convinced. Still don't like the quarter inchers for crag routes.

[mungeclimber]

You know that by this coming September, you and I will have been climbing together for 22 years.

and it's still a good story.

[MUCCI]

Eric Brand (ten days FAist) was known to use zmacs to protect, and in bolt ladders as the only type he would use.  Those can handle low angle falls like ammons 500 feet of slab falls on WOS on 30+ year old zmacs.

The story changes, I believe in a "pull out fall" where it is very steep and the zmacs are rated very low for pullout strength.

We use 5/16ths x 3/4 Stainless Steel carriage bolts for rivets, buzzed down in various ways to deal with the change in hole diameter from dull bits.  You pick the one best suited for how many holes you have on your bit. New bit, less threads, old bit, more threads.

Interspersed with 1/4 x 1.25" button heads with Stainless Steel shop made hangers, stamped with all kinds of trademarks.

Brad- You would feel good above one of our rivets, guaranteed 

[Brad Young]

Brad- You would feel good above one of our rivets, guaranteed 

Oddly enough Mucci, I think you're right, I would trust your sh#t.

Besides, anything's better than a 1/4' diameter piece of aluminum dowel!

[F4?]

I have 2x moments at least. Both were @ the Pinnacles.

20-30ft maybe?

The 1st one I remember Rob yelling, "AIM for the BUSHES, AIM for the BUSHES"...yup landed in the bushed to soften my fall.

The only casualty was shredding my sacred Sport Hill pants. Which was okay since the 90's were almost over.

[Atomizer]

When we did South Seas I remember there being a long dowel ladder off The Black Tower that was constructed with tent stakes. David Allfrey led way out on this thing. Maybe 10-15 tent stakes up he came to a sheered off stake with a 1/4" bolt next to it. Pretty scary... Fricking time bombs up there. I have a feeling like the pitch you speak of is below this ladder. But I don;t remember a dowel or bolt ladder right around where SS and PO meet. Maybe once you enter the Aluetian Chain?

[Brad Young]

I have 2x moments at least. Both were @ the Pinnacles.

20-30ft maybe?

The 1st one I remember Rob yelling, "AIM for the BUSHES, AIM for the BUSHES"...yup landed in the bushed to soften my fall.

The only casualty was shredding my sacred Sport Hill pants. Which was okay since the 90's were almost over.

That was one of yours.

I witnessed the second one, which was one hell of a fall. I saw you from the ground, tumbling and cartwheeling for 2/3 the length of Tato Pani's second pitch. And then Jeff seemingly tackled you right out of the air, onto the ledge at the top of the first pitch. Good ending - you coulda' gone a lot farther.

[mungeclimber]

Desecration Palpitation!

[JC w KC redux]

And we wonder why poor innocent bad rock isn't a regular around here.

Sorry sir (or ma'm) for having hijacked what started as a nice thread.

So bad rock gets an apology and my thread gets jacked and I get left behind like I don't even exist. My hate now has a new outlet. I request the administrator retitle this thread and remove my starting post from it. DIE! or choke on a carrot!

[squiddo]

JC- glad you started this thread. I enjoy where it ended up!

[JC w KC redux]

JC- glad you started this thread. I enjoy where it ended up!

It itched - so I scratched it...albeit publicly

[squiddo]

Ha, indeed. Careful though as we all started somewhere. Mine (on real rock) involved a homemade harness, hiking boots and a construction hat. Everything I learned started in basic and advanced rockcraft.

[mynameismud]

and a construction hat.

great visual

[Brad Young]

John, own it. Claim that you started the thread knowing and intending it would go here. That way we'll all think you're a genius.

[F4?]

My virgin eyes. What have I read?

[squiddo]

And it did happen because I have pictures and no way am I posting

[mynameismud]

Oh, come on.  We will be nice!

[squiddo]

You first

[Brad Young]

...I have a feeling like the pitch you speak of is below this ladder. But I don;t remember a dowel or bolt ladder right around where SS and PO meet. Maybe once you enter the Aluetian Chain?

Per Don Reid's big walls book, it was pitch 17; thin to one (or more, it's been a while) quarter inch bolts, to copperheads to dowels. He didn't strip the whole pitch, just enough to fall from very close to the end of the pitch to 20 feet below me. An old quarter inch bolt held the fall.

[Brad Young]

Funny, in my accounting I must have been thinking only about falls which were stopped by the rope. I completely, totally forgot my 1999 grounder and the resultant week in the hospital (I guess forgetting about it is a good sign?).