Author Topic: Aaron has had his hands on the Big Stone.  (Read 7697 times)

clink

  • Meanderthal
  • ****
  • Posts: 4003
Aaron has had his hands on the Big Stone.
« on: April 08, 2014, 05:44:58 AM »
 Aaron and his partner Levi called me after a day of them practicing wall techniques. They were chilling on Sickle, thinking "up".
 I was wondering how it went.

 I had a beer yesterday with Tom Cochrane, who was attempting a solo ascent of the Nose the year I was one. Boy, has gear changed. It was taboo to add bolts to belays in those days. Yikes!
 
Causing trouble when not climbing.

Aaron McDonald

  • Administrator
  • **
  • Posts: 326
Re: Aaron has had his hands on the Big Stone.
« Reply #1 on: April 08, 2014, 11:59:55 AM »
Wow!  What a ton of fun!  Was really windy on Saturday and could see ominous storm clouds gathering all day.  We hauled from Pine Line up to Sickle and hung the ledge off the edge spent the night. We got up late made some coffee and bailed late in the morning. We have  a preview and know what we need to work on to send the route.  I need to get speedy on aid and really dial in the french freeing.  Hopefully we will be able to complete before the middle of May.

F4?

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 6172
Re: Aaron has had his hands on the Big Stone.
« Reply #2 on: April 08, 2014, 07:02:35 PM »
Quote
Hopefully we will be able to complete before the middle of May.

Doesn't it take 4-5 days?

I'm not worthy.

Aaron McDonald

  • Administrator
  • **
  • Posts: 326
Re: Aaron has had his hands on the Big Stone.
« Reply #3 on: April 09, 2014, 09:03:08 AM »
Doesn't it take 4-5 days?

We would like to do it in 3 days.

mynameismud

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 5972
    • Mudncrud
Re: Aaron has had his hands on the Big Stone.
« Reply #4 on: April 09, 2014, 12:51:29 PM »
Aaron get your hands off those big stones...
Here's to sweat in your eye

Atomizer

  • Atomized
  • *
  • Posts: 836
Re: Aaron has had his hands on the Big Stone.
« Reply #5 on: June 21, 2014, 09:04:41 AM »
Aaron, are you using the Floating Fifi hook method yet? It's the ultimate aid climbing tool and will save you so much time and energy with both leading and following. It's what Dave Allfrey uses on his crazy fast speed ascents. It has been indispensable on every one of my ascents of El Cap. Let me know if you need to know more.

F4?

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 6172
Re: Aaron has had his hands on the Big Stone.
« Reply #6 on: June 21, 2014, 12:25:19 PM »
Pictures of this floating Fifi?

Is this one of pass the pitons peete's tricks?
I'm not worthy.

Atomizer

  • Atomized
  • *
  • Posts: 836
Re: Aaron has had his hands on the Big Stone.
« Reply #7 on: June 21, 2014, 10:38:46 PM »
The system uses a yates adjustable daisy with a fifi hook sewn or tied into the cam strap buckle. I can say a lot about its benefits for both aid, free transitions, and cleaning, but it's best uses are should be demonstrated in person. I don't think Pete came up with the idea. Pretty sure it was Dave Allfrey. If the fastest aid climber around endorses it, then that must mean something. 

F4?

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 6172
Re: Aaron has had his hands on the Big Stone.
« Reply #8 on: June 22, 2014, 06:38:28 AM »
I'd use it...as it would speed up top stepping. Using the adjustable daisy is nice, but a pain to un-hook sometimes.
I'm not worthy.

mynameismud

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 5972
    • Mudncrud
Re: Aaron has had his hands on the Big Stone.
« Reply #9 on: June 22, 2014, 08:06:09 AM »
I like the adjustable daisy, it does make some stuff much easier and faster.  I could not hook in as close, so I also had a short fifi hook tied directly into my harness.

edit:
cleaned it up a bit
Here's to sweat in your eye

clink

  • Meanderthal
  • ****
  • Posts: 4003
Re: Aaron has had his hands on the Big Stone.
« Reply #10 on: June 22, 2014, 08:15:07 AM »
Quote
also had a short fifi hook died directly to my harness

Sounds ominous.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

Atomizer

  • Atomized
  • *
  • Posts: 836
Re: Aaron has had his hands on the Big Stone.
« Reply #11 on: June 22, 2014, 06:27:15 PM »
I like the adjustable daisy, it does make some stuff much easier and faster.  I could not hook in as close, so I also had a short fifi hook tied directly into my harness.

The fifi version is far superior. I cut the existing webbing off the daisy and tie the fifi in really close with 1/2" tie off webbing.Ive never had it feel like it wasn't close enough. Its meant to be used in combination with two normal daisies.

Aaron McDonald

  • Administrator
  • **
  • Posts: 326
Re: Aaron has had his hands on the Big Stone.
« Reply #12 on: July 01, 2014, 01:21:45 PM »
Aaron, are you using the Floating Fifi hook method yet? It's the ultimate aid climbing tool and will save you so much time and energy with both leading and following. It's what Dave Allfrey uses on his crazy fast speed ascents. It has been indispensable on every one of my ascents of El Cap. Let me know if you need to know more.

Thanks for the tip Adam! I got this from Scott Lappin in the very beginning. I use it all the time when aiding or when I am (bad form) French Freeing.  I really like the way it works however I have had a hard time convincing others of its utility.

MUCCI

  • Mudders
  • **
  • Posts: 462
Re: Aaron has had his hands on the Big Stone.
« Reply #13 on: July 01, 2014, 07:08:49 PM »
I have used the yates/fifi for years.

On hard aid, I use 2 regular daisys and then "float" as Adam mentions the Yates/fifi.

Awesome for transitions, and when you have something really steep you can float it up to the piece and do a waist bounce test.

Also very smooth for when you are in desperate need to get into something, you don't have to use your ladder and regular daisy, you can just fifi in and pull tight.

For easy walls, I just use 2 Yates and try and never pull them tight on lead, it helps to have a regular fifi on the upper tie in loop for reducing the overall length.

Learning how to stand up against your fifi when in your ladders is the #1 skill most people never learn.  It is full body tension and can eliminate many placements over the course of a route.

Practice getting as high as possible in your ladders, and then as you go higher, release some tension from the yates/fifi until you are upright and well above what would normally be possible.

this is where the Yates/fifi combo really shines.

mungeclimber

  • PermaBan
  • ***
  • Posts: 6665
    • http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com
Re: Aaron has had his hands on the Big Stone.
« Reply #14 on: July 01, 2014, 07:39:59 PM »
pics or invalid
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

F4?

  • unworthy
  • Posts: 6172
Re: Aaron has had his hands on the Big Stone.
« Reply #15 on: July 01, 2014, 08:16:18 PM »
Quote
Learning how to stand up against your fifi when in your ladders is the #1 skill most people never learn.  It is full body tension and can eliminate many placements over the course of a route.

Practice getting as high as possible in your ladders, and then as you go higher, release some tension from the yates/fifi until you are upright and well above what would normally be possible.

this is where the Yates/fifi combo really shines.
 

I honed this on our Los Banditos route...." some guys with long arms" were able to top-step and place the bolts on the 1st pitch.

I 100% agree it's a great skill. I found the adjustable daisy to be easier to lever onto when top-stepping
I'm not worthy.

clink

  • Meanderthal
  • ****
  • Posts: 4003
Re: Aaron has had his hands on the Big Stone.
« Reply #16 on: July 01, 2014, 08:25:17 PM »
Nice description Mucci. Will try it.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

MUCCI

  • Mudders
  • **
  • Posts: 462
Re: Aaron has had his hands on the Big Stone.
« Reply #17 on: July 02, 2014, 09:10:19 AM »


I have cut off the factory webbing, and done what Adam/Super Dave do and tie the fifi right into the buckle.  However, It did not work so well for me, felt too tight in certain placements, and with my personal style of locking off I really did not need the extra 2 inches.

Now I use what is shown in the photo, just a regular BD fifi with sling wrapped through the hole about 4 times, then push the metal part through the last loop you have to lock it in.  Removable and you can still attach a locker etc for sleeping or whatever.

Bottom line, is to decide what works best for you, as you see there are many tricks of the trade.

Try everything, including not even using daisy's at all like the old guard.



Atomizer

  • Atomized
  • *
  • Posts: 836
Re: Aaron has had his hands on the Big Stone.
« Reply #18 on: July 10, 2014, 03:59:07 PM »
I have had problems with sewn versions. The knotted is much shorter and keeps the hook in a less floppy position. But I'm going to sew one this week and see how strong it is with just two rows of stitching.

Aaron McDonald

  • Administrator
  • **
  • Posts: 326
Re: Aaron has had his hands on the Big Stone.
« Reply #19 on: July 16, 2014, 09:36:23 AM »
I tie my with 1/2 webbing directly to the buckle then tape it in position. I will post a picture when I get home.