Author Topic: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting  (Read 313945 times)

Brad Young

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Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« on: May 12, 2014, 04:00:42 PM »
My first climbing trip to Pinnacles was also my first-ever climbing road trip. We went down after Christmas, 1984, and stayed for six straight days. We camped on the West Side (yeah, before the 1998 floods destroyed that campground) and climbed there and in the High Peaks. The Paul Gagner guidebook was current then, and it got us to climbs I've never since forgotten: Hummingbird Spire (first route I did at Pinnacles); Egg Shell (to this day I still remember the sense of adventure that that one gave me); Condor Crag South (dragging our lunches up behind us and being filled with wonder while eating and taking in the view from the summit - perhaps the one route that almost instantly cemented my love for this place).

That great trip extended into the first two days of 1985. In fact, it helped turn 1985 into my first "big" year in climbing. I started 1985 - on New Years Day itself - by leading my first multi-pitch route. Both pitches of Lava Falls went flawlessly (we dragged two ropes up that one though, because, back then, there was a one bolt anchor at the top of Lava Falls, and that one bolt was well back from the cliff edge; the descent required walking to the top of Hook and Drill and making a two-rope rappel down that). Later in that same year, in Yosemite Valley, I led my first 5.10 crack, did my first Grade V aid wall, my first Grade V in a day, and my first El Cap route. It was indeed a big year, and it really started at Pinnacles.

So that's 30 years of climbing at this wonderful place. I grew to love it quickly, and I love it still.

Last week I went down for my last trip of this, my 30th Pinnacles season. I had a very successful two days (purposeful the first day and fun the second day).

I've posted about The Embarrassment of Riches, the route I climbed last Tuesday. That was the purposeful day, and, honestly, I'm glad it's behind me. What I didn't post about that climb is that The Embarrassment of Riches was the last climb in the 2007 guidebook that is easier than 5.10 that I hadn't done. I was pretty damn happy to mark off that one single box, to finish filling in six pages of check-boxes. I had Gavin watch me put ink to paper (he must think I'm crazy), and when I got home I immediately showed Vicki and Tricia (wife and younger daughter). I even emailed Katie (older daughter) about what I'd done. I think I understood her response; she's in college, and I'm not quite sure we speak the same language (I know I loved what she wrote though). She saw the photos I'd taken of the check boxes at the back of my copy of my book and said:

"I'm truly impressed. Thats a shit ton of climbs. A metric shit ton."

I'm not sure how she could tell the difference between the two types of "tons," but I laughed when I got her email.

And now, after some reflection, I've decided that it's OK to post the same photos here that I sent to Katie, and that it's OK to start a thread about two goals that most of you have helped me with, two efforts that could each actually reach an end. First the photos:








And now the goals. First, I've ticked all of the "sub 5.10" routes that are in the book, but new routes have gone up since the book came out. Including those new routes in the count, I've done either all but three, or all but five routes known to exist at Pinns that are easier than 5.10 (there are three complete "sub 5.10" routes that I know of and haven't yet done, and two more that are nearly finished or "maybe finished" routes). I hope that, early next season, I can do these few routes (plus any other "sub 5.10s" that go up between now and then) and become (most likely) the first person to have done every route at Pinns that is easier than 5.10. If (IF) I am able to reach this status, it may only last for a day or a week or a month. New routes continue to go up. But I think I'll be able to keep up by doing new routes after they are put up (for a few years anyway - we'll see how I do once I'm hobbling out to routes with my walker and a bottle of Geritol). I've had a ton of fun getting to this point, and I hope I continue to have fun finishing and then "maintaining" this goal.

My second goal is related. Some years ago I did my 800th route at Pinns. It was a first ascent; 14 of us put up a new climb called "The 800 Club" as my 800th route done at Pinns. It was a "mass assault" that included some of my best friends and it was a great day. A few people have asked me since then whether I thought I'd ever get to 900 routes done in good style. Although I kinda doubted that this one would happen, and I haven't really cared much, it now seems like it might.

As of last Wednesday, over the course of 30 years, I've done 881 routes at Pinnacles in good style. I suspect now that I will eventually have done 900 routes, and I think this may happen next season.

If I get there, I'd like to do another "mass ascent" of a new route. I hope that most of the folks on here could find time to join me on that (tentative name of the route-to-be: "Nine Hundred for the Lead").

And now, one final comment. Although these goals are and have been fun, respect for Pinnacles rock has and will continue to come first. That respect takes precedence over any of my climbing goals just as it takes precedence over any other climber's goals too. Respect for Pinns rock means that I have not sought out or created routes just to inflate some (basically dumb) route count. I won't do that, period. And, on that subject, although I've been part of an unusually large wave of new first ascents this just-passed season, those ascents have been made for fun and adventure. They have not been done to artificially increase some already artificial number. I absolutely do not intend to change this pattern, at least not in my own behavior.

mungeclimber

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #1 on: May 12, 2014, 04:24:58 PM »
I'm in.

It needs some good rock. I will think on this some if you don't have one in mind already.

I'm pretty sure it is about a metric shit ton, but I round down to shit ton when in doubt.

I'm pretty sure next season you'll have your 20 without too much trying.

I remember when your guidebooks had more white space.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #2 on: May 12, 2014, 04:51:49 PM »

I'm in.


I was hoping you'd say that  ;D

mynameismud

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #3 on: May 12, 2014, 04:55:11 PM »
Congratulations and nice lead(s).
Here's to sweat in your eye

Brad Young

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #4 on: May 12, 2014, 04:57:58 PM »
Congratulations and nice lead(s).

This time you're in no matter what - you missed "The 800 Club," and will be an essential ingredient in "Nine Hundred for the Lead."

Uncle Stinky

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #5 on: May 12, 2014, 05:15:29 PM »
Good on Ya,   don't stop at 900 who knows the future holds....

mynameismud

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #6 on: May 12, 2014, 05:19:16 PM »
sounds like a plan.  Perhaps I will be close to 700 by then.
Here's to sweat in your eye

squiddo

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #7 on: May 12, 2014, 06:18:27 PM »
No doubt that's a lotta climbs- admiration in the adventure and spirit you completed them in. Also respect for actually checking the cute little boxes off.

Love to shAre a rope and route and a beer, in that order OR not.

Cheers, marc
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Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
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Brad Young

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #8 on: May 12, 2014, 06:27:04 PM »
No doubt that's a lotta climbs- admiration in the adventure and spirit you completed them in. Also respect for actually checking the cute little boxes off.

Love to shAre a rope and route and a beer, in that order OR not.

Cheers, marc

They are pretty cute, aren't they?

We will be climbing up here at least the next three weekends in a row, so come on up!

JC w KC redux

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #9 on: May 12, 2014, 08:03:48 PM »
i'm not worthy!
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waldo

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #10 on: May 12, 2014, 08:56:04 PM »
I've got a hammer.

mynameismud

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #11 on: May 12, 2014, 09:20:52 PM »
looking forward to the post where he hits the century mark.
Here's to sweat in your eye

cobbledik

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #12 on: May 12, 2014, 10:57:05 PM »
Count me in for route 900! (and see if you can manage to find a virgin line with an aid section!)

clink

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #13 on: May 13, 2014, 05:56:19 AM »
Quote
And now, one final comment. Although these goals are and have been fun, respect for Pinnacles rock has and will continue to come first.

 Hey Brad,

 Congrats on conquering the tick list. As to respecting the rock my last time seeing you at Pinns was you on a difficult stance hammering for a bit then down-climbing to a rest.

 The "new" area has 8 routes with a total of 15 lead bolts, that's less than two per route with anchors at 60 to 75 feet up on 6 of them. Of course a few cracks helped with that, but very proud. Glad to be part of the adventure with the Mud People.
  
Jon Cochran
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MUCCI

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #14 on: May 13, 2014, 01:33:07 PM »
I will be there for the 900 Brad.


JC w KC redux

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #15 on: May 13, 2014, 02:59:10 PM »
You're my hero Brad! A quick look at my book shows 175 boxes out of everything 5.9 and under onsight. I still haven't managed to fill in one of the sections completely but I'm close on a couple. I know I'll never be able to do what you've done but that's OK - this thread isn't about ME! The reasons I may never do some of the routes are many and varied - but if nothing else because of PO overgrowth and some that are just plain nuts :)
You've inspired me to start inking them in - they are currently in pencil - what?.
I think I'll do black for the onsights and red for redpoints :)
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Brad Young

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #16 on: May 13, 2014, 03:52:44 PM »
You're my hero Brad! A quick look at my book shows 175 boxes out of everything 5.9 and under onsight. I still haven't managed to fill in one of the sections completely but I'm close on a couple. I know I'll never be able to do what you've done but that's OK - this thread isn't about ME! The reasons I may never do some of the routes are many and varied - but if nothing else because of PO overgrowth and some that are just plain nuts :)
You've inspired me to start inking them in - they are currently in pencil - what?.
I think I'll do black for the onsights and red for redpoints :)

Well I'm nobody's hero (actually, I take that back - hopefully I can still be Tricia's hero for a while yet). It's just a matter of having been at it for a long time. Thirty years compared to the two you've been climbing at Pinns? Plus a fair amount of luck (no long term injuries or other significant interference from "life").

I really enjoy playing the types of numbers games we're talking about here (Lord knows I'll never play the 5.12 or 5.13 type numbers games - I can't do that). For me tracking these numbers is a lot of fun.

And the people? I can look back at so many of these routes that I've done with so many of you, and remember each as a great time with a friend. Memories like that are the true treasures.

We'll have fun on 900 (although it's not likely to include aid Kevin, at least not voluntarily; but we want you in -  maybe you can do the "backside" to whatever it is and meet us on top  ;D  )


JC w KC redux

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #17 on: May 13, 2014, 04:07:30 PM »
I can look back at so many of these routes that I've done with so many of you, and remember each as a great time with a friend. Memories like that are the true treasures.

Agreed - Priceless!

and I say you are to Pinns what Ken Jennings is to Jeopardy :)
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Brad Young

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #18 on: May 13, 2014, 04:58:01 PM »
I'm pretty sure I've never seen Jeopardy. I watch about 15 hours of TV per year.

So, that could be a really, really clever insult; you'd be laughing your head off, and I wouldn't even get it.

The "numbers or not" game is funny in other ways too. Naturally I climb with some people who don't go overboard to keep track of what they've done. Steve Dawson for example. Steve keeps track of some of the climbs he's done, but not others. So, on occasion he'll start up a climb and then realize that he's done it before. Who knows, maybe he gets more "onsights" that way.

clink

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #19 on: May 13, 2014, 07:24:47 PM »
Quote
I watch about 15 hours of TV per year.

Did you keep track of those in pencil or ink?

Do you know who Lady Gaga is? Lord? Edward and Bella? Ever eat Coco Puffs?
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