Recomendations, New routes??? This weekend.

[Uncle Stinky]

My wife for a B-day present booked a couple of nights at the Inn at the Pinnacles, quite a bit differnt than places we are used to staying or camping at!  However putting in a few bolts over spring break aggravated an old wrist injury/condition.   They have been messed up for six weeks now.  So my climbing will be limited, I have done most of the easy classics on West Side and in High Peaks where we will be hiking and climbing.   Any recommendations on lesser known climbs or the newer ones?  Or if anyone wants to share any of new routes that are not on list I can keep my mouth shut.  I am looking for climbs .8 or below.

@ Brad- when we booked my wife mentioned you and the woman got a kick out it.



Thanks  Jeff
   

[Brad Young]

Nice birthday present! I think you'll enjoy The Inn.

BTW, we first tried it about 10 or 11 years ago because Robert had tried it and thought it was nice.

As for West Side climbs that work with wrist injuries? If you want to keep it easy, Thundering Herd (5.4) is always fun. Easy and mossy (although recently re-bolted if I recall), but worth it and it won't harm the wrist. Also, reversing the Machete Descent leads to Barber's Backside (5.6) and a great view (plus you learn the Machete descent if you're not used to it).

And all routes on the "keep it private" part of the list are at a place called The Northeast Frontier," which is about as East Side as one can get. Like anyone posting here, you're welcome to the full information; they're just not yet available to the whole world. At least not until we finalize a few more of the projects out there 

Oh, and BTW, I'm assuming that those nights will be soon? That is, before the raptor closures end? It might be fun to print out the photo/topo from the new routes list and at least check out The Inn Crowd. That can't be climbed yet (and will be too hot for a while anyway).

[JC w KC redux]

High Peaks
560.2 Abuela Cochinita 5.8 ** - still haven't gotten around to this one but it looks good and is shady most of the day.
I also enjoyed Disintegration Pinnacle nearby.
578.9 Feeling Lucky Punk  5.6 - Jon still thinks this one deserves a star and if you are careful to avoid the choss it is quite good.
579.1 High Peaks Drifter  5.8 - not as good as The Lump's standard route but still a nice addition.
579.5  What I’ve Been Missing Out On  5.7  - this is a gear climb with some definite spice - stoppers and cams to #3 - sunny.
Have you done Papa Bear Reg Rte? - it's right across the way.

WEST SIDE

640.1 The Wolf 5.7 R  - I really enjoyed this climb and thought it was star worthy.
824.1 Are You Inexperienced  5.7 - challenging moves and some of the worst rock I've been on (at the end) keep this one lively for the grade - should be partial shade since it's partially behind trees and cool in the morning.
The Crumbling Castle, Tombstone, Monument circuit is fun and only partway up the hill - but you may have already done those.
Have you done Osiris Easy Route? Lichen to Lead? Toog's Terror? All fun.
We did rebolt Thundering Herd - dance your way around sprigs of PO - easiest to approach by going up, around and down(back left and down). You can also get to it by carefully going over the wall and down a bit - down the trail from Toog's rap landing.

[JC w KC redux]

Also, reversing the Machete Descent leads to Barber's Backside (5.6) and a great view (plus you learn the Machete descent if you're not used to it).

Brad is right - reversing the descent is entertaining and educational. The PO may be fierce in the lower gully but we've always been able to carefully avoid it - haven't been up it this season.
I've done all the machete pitches and all the reverse pitches and for me - Barber's had a zero fun factor.
According to Larry Arthur it is a utilitarian route devised for rescues.
It will however get you up to the top using the shortest technical pitch.
If you're feeling spunky I would highly recommend Fish Breath Arete to get up there.
One long harder pitch followed by two easy pitches with fabulous position and wild exposure

[mungeclimber]

aid climb the Gameshow.

 

[clink]

Tilting Terrace, both pitches 5.8(old5.6) and 5.4 to top and scramble down.

[mungeclimber]

"Taking the Wind Out of Your Mudsails" 5.7+ is a gem. I highly recommend it, but make sure you have a heckling committee to yell up at the appropriate moment. buahhaha

[Uncle Stinky]

Thanks for the input!    Looks like the weather will cool for us.   Cheers jeff