Author Topic: The routes that are standards for ratings.  (Read 3466 times)

clink

  • Meanderthal
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The routes that are standards for ratings.
« on: May 22, 2014, 06:42:22 PM »
 I was reading the guide and noticed some of the ratings have changed. Some have remained the same since I remember first climbing them. Have holds broken off? Were others originally sandbagged? H&L was 5.4, Tilting Terrace 5.6, Fly Bye 5.9...

 The one route that epitomized a standard to me was Ordeal 5.8 and it remains so.

 5.0-5.14 any opinions as to a particular route that reps it's rating well?
Causing trouble when not climbing.

mynameismud

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    • Mudncrud
Re: The routes that are standards for ratings.
« Reply #1 on: May 22, 2014, 06:48:04 PM »
Fly Bye and Plaque seem like fairly standard 5.9's.

Daddy Long Legs as a good standard for 11d.

Heat Seeking Moisture Missile is a good standard for  10d
Here's to sweat in your eye

clink

  • Meanderthal
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Re: The routes that are standards for ratings.
« Reply #2 on: May 22, 2014, 07:36:23 PM »
 The "d" is perhaps the most defining of the letter grades. A "d" rating implies any climb more difficult than this belongs in a higher number grade, "d" is the break point.
 5.10 a is important because there is not a 5.9d .

 Mud, I haven't climbed either of your "d" suggestions but will try this season.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

JC w KC redux

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Re: The routes that are standards for ratings.
« Reply #3 on: May 22, 2014, 08:59:19 PM »
I was reading the guide and noticed some of the ratings have changed. Some have remained the same since I remember first climbing them. Have holds broken off? Were others originally sandbagged? H&L was 5.4, Tilting Terrace 5.6, Fly Bye 5.9...

 The one route that epitomized a standard to me was Ordeal 5.8 and it remains so.

 5.0-5.14 any opinions as to a particular route that reps it's rating well?

Two people at the AAC were saying they thought Ordeal was harder.
I can give you a list of sandbags and softies.
Ratings are so subjective, height and ego dependent - the more I climb, the less I trust their accuracy.
Of course all our new routes are perfectly rated - except one...or maybe two...no three...crap!
One wheel shy of normal

clink

  • Meanderthal
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Re: The routes that are standards for ratings.
« Reply #4 on: May 23, 2014, 05:11:35 AM »
Quote
Ratings are so subjective, height and ego dependent - the more I climb, the less I trust their accuracy.

 Just add -ish
Causing trouble when not climbing.

mynameismud

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    • Mudncrud
Re: The routes that are standards for ratings.
« Reply #5 on: May 23, 2014, 07:17:16 AM »
I think Ordeal is 5.8, it definitely is not 5.9.  It basically has one slightly tricky move. It is a route that has not gotten any harder over time.  I think the foot transfer edge is perhaps a slightly larger than in the past.
Here's to sweat in your eye

JC w KC redux

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Re: The routes that are standards for ratings.
« Reply #6 on: May 23, 2014, 07:54:47 AM »
I think Ordeal is 5.8, it definitely is not 5.9.  It basically has one slightly tricky move. It is a route that has not gotten any harder over time.  I think the foot transfer edge is perhaps a slightly larger than in the past.

I told the folks at the AAC climb-in that if it felt harder than 5.8 - they must have been off route. One of them said they'd done it 4 or 5 times and it always seemed harder. When I saw that person climbing it they were on TR and way left of where I went on the crux. I think part of it is knowing your climbing medium and being adept at following the LOLR.
One wheel shy of normal