Aiding and Abetting

[JC w KC redux]

clink and I topped Machete yesterday using his old favorite customized version of linkups.
We started up Twinkle Toes, continued up Gary and Phyllis Headwall and finished on The West Face.

Looking down part of the West Face Traverse.
When I got close to the end of my rope, I set up a belay on a "sturdy" holly cluster about 30 feet from the anchor (which I couldn't see and had no idea where it was) - tucked my butt into the slot and just started laughing.





clink following the traverse (classic old school Pinnacles nonsense)





clink follows the final pitch





me and Magnum PO at the top
a great day swapping leads, learning new stuff and always a treat to rope up with the clinker

[Brad Young]

J.C. How'd the aid go? Did you lead or follow the aid? Jugs or french free?

And to think, the Dawsons and I had to squeeze between snow and rock just to get started on yesterday's climbs.

[mungeclimber]

And to think, the Dawson's and I had to squeeze between snow and rock just to get started on yesterday's climbs.

That's called a hint.

Who all is going up?

[squiddo]

That's called a hint.

Who all is going up?

LOL HA HA- I bet its melting fast!

[JC w KC redux]

J.C. How'd the aid go? Did you lead or follow the aid? Jugs or french free?

Good and bad. I need more practice on easier stuff/bolt ladders.
I aided the first two bolts on P&G smoothly and then went free.
clink led the West Face aid since the sun was coming over fast.
I had a terrible time following/trying to climb the aiders past the first two bolts on that 6 bolt section.
Getting the second and fourth bolts with those long reaches felt impossible.
 

[Brad Young]

Good and bad. I need more practice on easier stuff/bolt ladders.
I aided the first two bolts on P&G smoothly and then went free.
clink led the West Face aid since the sun was coming over fast.
I had a terrible time following/trying to climb the aiders past the first two bolts on that 6 bolt section.
Getting the second and fourth bolts with those long reaches felt impossible.

Wow, that surprises me that you struggled. It might be a mixed issue technique but also one of strength too - if one hasn't done or trained for that type of work, it doesn't come easy.

BTW, one of the best ways to train for that type of thing is to carry heavy, faded purple packs to the base of climbing crags. You should try that as often as you can.

[clink]

Brad I stole one of your day packs the wknd we climbed. Want it mailed back?

[Aaron McDonald]

Multipitch? Aid climbing? French Freeing? Jugging? JC what is happening to you? I am really starting to get worried. Keep this up and you might end up on granite somewhere in the Sierra and forsake Pinnacles for a weekend or two.

[Brad Young]

Multipitch? Aid climbing? French Freeing? Jugging? JC what is happening to you? I am really starting to get worried. Keep this up and you might end up on granite somewhere in the Sierra and forsake Pinnacles for a weekend or two.

Wow dude, slooow down. Yes, we're widening J.C.'s climbing horizons. He's steadily trying new stuff and getting better at all of it. And granite is a part of that process.

But it's got to be done slowly (he's pretty old you know). Give it time.

Oh, and by the way Aaron:

1. How's progress on your Valley goal if I might ask?

2. Why don't we see you up here now and then?

[Brad Young]

Brad I stole one of your day packs the wknd we climbed. Want it mailed back?

Huh? Do you really have one of my packs? If so, no mail. Bring it up yourself, that is, you personally get your ass up here.

[JC w KC redux]

JC what is happening to you?

I suspect it may all be related to sleeping inn or being a high peaks grifter

[Aaron McDonald]

Wow dude, slooow down. Yes, we're widening J.C.'s climbing horizons. He's steadily trying new stuff and getting better at all of it. And granite is a part of that process.

But it's got to be done slowly (he's pretty old you know). Give it time.

Oh, and by the way Aaron:

1. How's progress on your Valley goal if I might ask?

2. Why don't we see you up here now and then?

HA!

I have been hitting the Valley almost every weekend. I would really like to get my French Free technique dialed and a little more work on the belay systems with my partner. Finding people to practice aid climbing with has been challenging. Do not want to be part of the 50% that bail at or before Dolt Tower.

I need to get to Sonora soon. I have a brand new shinny guide book that I have still never been able use. I blame this on my choice in climbing partners and their need to only climb first ascents.

[squiddo]

BTW, one of the best way to train for that type of thing is to carry heavy, faded purple packs to the base of climbing crags. You should try that as often as you can.

OK I admit it, this made me laugh out loud. I swear one time I'm gonna see you and that thing will disintegrate.

Hope the family made it home safe and you are enjoying the company.

[mynameismud]

HA!

I have been hitting the Valley almost every weekend. I would really like to get my French Free technique dialed and a little more work on the belay systems dialed with my partner. Finding people to practice aid climbing with has been challenging. Do not want to be part of the 50% that bail at or before Dolt Tower.

I need to get to Sonora soon. I have a brand new shinny guide book that I have still never been able use. I blame this on my choice in climbing partners and their need to only climb first ascents.

My first bit of advice is do not French Free, it is slow and bad form.  Remember to Batman using high tech gear when ever possible,  yarding on gear, or performing old school techniques such as A0 are also good form and can get you through difficult times quickly.

Here's to sweat in your eye

P.S. deploying decaying old purple packs is dubious at best.

[Aaron McDonald]

My first bit of advice is do not French Free, it is slow and bad form.

Not sure I understand.  I was practicing aid on La Escuela at the El Cap base a few weeks ago. Not sure if you are familiar with the climb but it is an 11.b left facing over hung corner.  It took me about 45 minutes to aid the first pitch. I then tried French Free and did it in under 20 minutes. Seemed like it was much faster to French Free. Maybe I was in just in a time warp?

[mynameismud]

Aaron, read closely:  French free is bad form.  The one exception is if you are climbing with a French hottie.

yarding on gear, works very well.  French Free might be faster than aiding a pitch, but A0 or yarding on gear are faster.  

Jeepers, next thing we know you will be stopping mid pitch to bolt that crack.  Did you perm your hair while you were out French Freeing those pitches, buy some foie gras, wear pink lycra?  No wonder you cannot find climbing partners.  Get a grip dude.

Think Hardman, Captian Granite, Batman, and Sweat in your eyes.  

[mungeclimber]

Mud, French free is A0/pulling on gear/half free climbing.

What are you talking about?

[clink]

 Yahooo!  Mud was reading from the book. Aaron, you are privileged, accepted despite interpretation. I don't know how you triggered it, but that was awesome.

 Do it again!

[clink]

JC did you check out Rock Around the Clock or Balconies Regular Route? They look next. I found more 10's calling to you.

[Brad Young]

Mud, French free is A0/pulling on gear/half free climbing.

What are you talking about?

Read it and imagine Mud with that damn grin, saying: "...read closely:  French free is bad form."

And what else did he describe? All of it is also bad form. Notice that he didn't have a problem with pulling on gear, just with French Free.

Aaron, you've just been honored with a humorous dig from Mud himself.