Second Class Citizen

[JC w KC redux]

Had a fun day on the east side yesterday.
Walked with Gavin for a few minutes on the way in.
Met a few folks and shared some gab on the way out.
One group of polite "kids" from the south Bay.
Saw Gwen (from the gym) and a friend atop Mono's Reg Rte.
Richard and Veronica from Salinas.
A cute couple from San Diego that just moved to Monterey to work at the Naval Station.

Had my eye on some Frog Routes when I accidentally brushed against some juicy, ripe PO while trying to find a way through to the far left/SE end. If you know me - you know how wary I am of the stuff. Not wanting to take a chance on getting the oil on Kat, I opted not to deploy any of the gear that rubbed up against it and thus our roped climbing for the day was shut down. The base of the 4th Class Chimney was blocked on every side by PO and we could not find a way through. We also could not find a way past to get to SS Shuffle without a major bushwhack. Not to be deterred from at least one summit, we worked our way all the way around the other side.

This will never be climbed again unless someone clears it out or people are immune. Too bad because it looks like fun.

MaGootchy Bird Chimney





Kat under the Frog's summit block





JC at the top of Sticky Tongue Slab 4th Class





If the top of this slab is the "gathering spot" mentioned below - I never saw the two old bolts and getting there is 4th class.

If I am interpreting the correction below accurately - then the top of Sticky Tongue Slab is actually the end of South Side Shuffle - making that route 4th class. The steepness and committing nature of the initial slab moves did not feel like 3rd class to me. Then again, I have been on 3rd class that felt like 4th and vice versa at the Pinns.

13. Correction, Page 137 (route 337, “South Side Shuffle”): This route ends on a high point just north of The Frog’s highest point. The formation high point isn’t accessible by class two (the highest point is the part of the formation that looks like a frog from the north, that is, from on the approach). The farther-north high point where South Side Shuffle ends is a “gathering spot” where walk offs from almost all Frog routes join before moving down this route to the ground. For some forgotten reason, there are two old bolts here.

[Brad Young]

That third photo is the top of South Side Shuffle.

And far be it for me to have changed so old a route from class two to class four (plus, on what you're calling class four, there's no exposure, so by definition it can't be class four).

There's always been lots of juicy P.O. on that formation's north and east side.

[JC w KC redux]

That third photo is the top of South Side Shuffle.

And far be it for me to have changed so old a route from class two to class four (plus, on what you're calling class four, there's no exposure, so by definition it can't be class four).

There's always been lots of juicy P.O. on that formation's north and east side.

Nice!
Thanks for the confirmation.
Are the two old bolts on that summit?
So one of the criteria from class 3 to class 4 is exposure?
I'll have to respectfully disagree since there is some serious exposure off to the right.
I was also judging by the difficulty of the moves compared to other stuff I've been on.
What else goes into it?
Steepness? Size of holds?

[Brad Young]

Nice!
Thanks for the confirmation.
Are the two old bolts on that summit?
So one of the criteria from class 3 to class 4 is exposure?
I was just judging by the difficulty of the moves compared to other stuff I've been on.
What else goes into it?
Steepness? Size of holds?

Most definitions of "class four" use exposure as one of many factors. In my experience, difficulty of the moves is the other major factor.

[JC w KC redux]

So it appears I am a third class citizen. Time to resume working on those 3rd and 4th class boxes in the book.

[Brad Young]

And BTW, the actual Frog summit is right above Kathy in your second photo. The route to that summit is to her left (in other words right of her in the photo).

[clink]

I knew that all PO wants you bad JC. Turn your stick clip into a pruner extension.

[Atomizer]

HAHAHAHAHAHAHHHH, You said stick clip!!!

[JC w KC redux]

I knew that all PO wants you bad JC. Turn your stick clip into a pruner extension.

It's already on my pruning pole

[clink]

HAHAHAHAHAHAHHHH, You said stick clip!!!

 I will send you my special pink point panties to help you link and crush. But only to borrow.

[mynameismud]

Ohh, Pink Point Panties.  Those are so sweeeet.

[JC w KC redux]

Ohh, Pink Point Panties.  Those are so sweeeet.

I pink pointed some over the last few days without the panties and a "girl" even pre-placed the draws  - is that like pink point squared?

[Brad Young]

I pink pointed some over the last few days without the panties and a "girl" even pre-placed the draws  - is that like pink point squared?

What routes and what girl? Might be pink point cubed 

Hey, get your ass up here for the fourth and we'll get on some cool granite (bring K.C.'s ass too).

[mynameismud]

depends on whether she was wearing pink panties

[F4?]

depends on whether she was wearing pink panties

What's with you and pink panties?

[clink]

The English term "redpoint" is derived from the German Rotpunkt (point of red) coined by Kurt Albert in the mid-1970s at Frankenjura. He would paint a red X on ...

 Why did we need to alter the original German?

 Rotpunkters??? I like it.

 Hasn't one of us rotpunkted 5.13?

[F4?]

So Mr Mud must wear pink panties for his redpoints.....

[mynameismud]

OW