Booty on the west side

[JC w KC redux]

There are two leaver biners and a draw on p1 of Machete Direct. There is a draw on Flies on a Pile.
I got what was left on Destiny wall last weekend. Couldn't get to the other stuff.

By the way - why are there rap chains on the p1 anchor of Machete Direct? Is that for the 10b 12a bad asses?

Somewhat off topic but looking at the MD topo and the fact that I was up there today - I guess it lists the rap distance at p2 anchor (120 feet) since it exceeds any sane rope - BUT that anchor has no chains anyway so...it does however have shiny new ss bolts and hangers - listed in my ultra super spiffy rebolt compilation (still buried in the rebolt sticky page 3)

[clink]

   
Booty on the west side

Startin a rap/gangsta band?

[Atomizer]

Somewhat off topic but looking at the MD topo and the fact that I was up there today - I guess it lists the rap distance at p2 anchor (120 feet) since it exceeds any sane rope - BUT that anchor has no chains anyway so...it does however have shiny new ss bolts and hangers - listed in my ultra super spiffy rebolt compilation (still buried in the rebolt sticky page 3)

I think you are misinterpreting the guidebook. If there is an X or an -> on a topo that doesn't neccessarily mean those things are actually there...

Also most of the sane Sport and trad climbers I know have a 70M rope at their disposal. I think it is actually quite unwise to not have one these days with the number of routes ive done recently that a 70 is required.

The Machete Direct first pitch is the pitch to do on that climb and the only pitch most folks would do. The rap anchors make sense to me, for convenience. Can't you just walk off from the ledge where those new bolts are?

[JC w KC redux]

I think you are misinterpreting the guidebook. If there is an X or an -> on a topo that doesn't neccessarily mean those things are actually there...

Also most of the sane Sport and trad climbers I know have a 70M rope at their disposal. I think it is actually quite unwise to not have one these days with the number of routes ive done recently that a 70 is required.

The Machete Direct first pitch is the pitch to do on that climb and the only pitch most folks would do. The rap anchors make sense to me, for convenience. Can't you just walk off from the ledge where those new bolts are?

Oh everything was there - just not set up for a rap so I could snatch the booty
I didn't have my 70 with me. I think the #'s are on the topo so people know you can't escape without 2 ropes.
I was trying to bait Brad but he's not having it.
I set up the p2 anchor with some links and rings and started down - only to realize I would have to diagonal way across and might run out of rope - so I went back up, removed my links from the anchor and "walked" off. I didn't feel like going to all the trouble of tying off and rapping a single strand just for a couple leavers. And yes - you can "walk" off the "ledge", but climbers of your caliber might be offended just by stepping onto such a low grade, low quality route . Of course we are talking about Tiburcio's Ambush and it's some skeery* "walking".

On the way up I met this squirrel and asked if he might get the leaver up and to his right from Flies.
He just stared straight ahead and ignored me.