Author Topic: Anyone climbing at the Pinnacles lately? (Read 11982 times)

F4? · « **on:** August 14, 2006, 07:40:45 PM »

I thought this was a site for people who are passionate about the Pinnalces. Where is the dedication? Has it just become too easy to go to the gym and not make the drive??

PS where are those birds finished with thier business?

mungeclimber · « **Reply #1 on:** August 14, 2006, 09:24:57 PM »

Burner is our hero for braving the heat.

The Big · « **Reply #2 on:** August 15, 2006, 07:34:09 AM »

I thought this was a dive site?

mungeclimber · « **Reply #3 on:** August 15, 2006, 12:12:03 PM »

There's diving in Monterrey, that's near pinns, right?

Burner · « **Reply #4 on:** August 16, 2006, 03:01:42 PM »

i'll go for half a day on saturday if you are that desperate. Its probably only going to be 90, be nice on monolith main face in the afternoon, or in the gully thing in on monolith in the morning.

cosmos and 40 days of rain should be nice all day. Why don't you lead that and I'll get some crack climbing practice.

F4? · « **Reply #5 on:** August 16, 2006, 08:21:28 PM »

I'm hosed for climbing. Saturday I'm removing a chimmney for my mom (lots of fun). Sunday, maybe, but I'm supposed to go abalone diving, we'll see.

I'll start hitting the Pinns in Sept.

When we used to go in the summer we'd hit the Monolith and then take a siesta. One time the ranger walked by us hiding in the shade and just shook his head.

Mr Mud? How about you?

mudworm · « **Reply #6 on:** August 16, 2006, 09:32:28 PM »

Mr Mud is moving into his house in the hills on Sunday. Worm cannot do all the packing herself.

But Burner, Mud says he wants to climb with you because he wants to meet you. I think you are his new hero now.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #7 on:** August 16, 2006, 09:42:10 PM »

sweet! congrats!!

I would help, but I'm on the injured list now.

don't make me go out there coach.

Burner · « **Reply #8 on:** August 17, 2006, 11:51:14 AM »

haha well I'm going to go to the grotto sunday which will be hotter then pinnacles, but I just want to rawhide too bad to not go.

F4? · « **Reply #9 on:** August 17, 2006, 12:25:13 PM »

Grotto vs Pinnalces..... I'd hit the Grotto, more specifically the Eastern Front (up and left or east of the grotto). Amazing routes like DC Angel Cat and my recent test piece "Hard Times at the Winking Lantern" will soon draw folks out of the pit. Word of warning, climb it in the shade.

Mr Mud has yet to appear at the Grotto. Maybe this fall?

squiddo · « **Reply #10 on:** August 17, 2006, 12:28:11 PM »

There Bratton goes again...tooting his own horn! Hey Bratton...think that bolt will REALLY hold?

mungeclimber · « **Reply #11 on:** August 17, 2006, 03:19:01 PM »

Quote

test piece

really? do tell

Burner · « **Reply #12 on:** August 18, 2006, 11:15:49 AM »

I think the eastern front is further away to walk and I'm lazy

I just want to tr rawhide, and I think there is another thin crack that is harder that I might try out.

For Hard Times at the Winkin' Lantern what is the difficulty of the thin crack section?

I'll be more interested in the eastern front once I start placing gear.

F4? · « **Reply #13 on:** August 18, 2006, 12:08:38 PM »

Haven't done Rawide. I did follow Digital Distress (nice lead Brad) which is 11c and that was burly.

Hard times is more of a hard corner boulder problem, with one alien placement. For a rating, we think 11a, maybe b? Hard to say since I had the sequences dialed.

DC Angel Cat is a great route. You stem up this route that is the complete opposite of AC Devil Dog. All bolts. It clocks in at 10C.

Burner · « **Reply #14 on:** August 18, 2006, 01:10:06 PM »

dc angel cat does look fun.

I don't really lead trad so more just worried about the section with the alien placement in it. If that part isn't too hard I might give it a try as well.

Of course it depends on what my partner wants to do too.

salad · « **Reply #15 on:** August 18, 2006, 02:31:01 PM »

that thing doesnt protect with gear??

Brad Young · « **Reply #16 on:** August 18, 2006, 04:30:58 PM »

Take my word for it Cock, it does not take gear. those are uneven, micro seams only. Near the top the FA party was thinking of using a cam. The cam fit well. I asked them to place a bolt though (and they did) because a fall on the cam well might have pried out the microwave size block it was behind. The block is soid to the touch and pull, but the leverage a cam creates with a fall is a whole different thing. Table Mountain is very strange that way - huge loosenesses need careful attention when creating new routes.

Burner · « **Reply #17 on:** August 20, 2006, 10:41:05 PM »

I did DC angel cat, it was ok, I didn't really stem that much, seemed easy to just layback sections of it. Fell a couple of times, not really sure why, like I would slip when I was in a rest positoin.

Winking lantern I just top roped cause I didn't know how hard the area around the crack was. Did it clean, seemed to have one hard move (I would guess 11b for this move) and the rest wasn't too bad. I'll lead it next time, should be able to get it first try.

Did the 3 to the right of winking lantern all on tr, 5.8 felt hard to me, but that might have been because I was trying to not put my arms and legs in the crack and lose skin. 10b felt harder then 10b maybe we missed something. 10a was easy.

Some 10a crack that shares the anchors with snakebite, then did snakebite. It was easy once I found the foothold on the thin section.

Did whatever the 10c was that shares the anchors with digital distress, it was long and tiring and i missed some hold on the crux and made it feel like 11+. Was too tired to try digital distress so I figured I'd save it for another day

To end the day I led AC Devil Dog. And I was tired as shit and had to hang 1 move before the amazing rest. Then Top roped Rawhide. First time I got it clean, and I was rock solid on it. Was pretty happy about that, I was afraid saving hte one climb I wanted to do for the last climb I might be burnt out, but I thought it was a great close of the day.

Overall I climbed way better cracks then sport lead which is a first for me (I suck at cracks this is my first summer trying them) did the most climbs I've ever done at the grotto in one day, and all of them were harder then I normally climb there, so I had a great day.

Also nice breeze at the end of the day, it was very comfortable and quiet there, great day.

I'm going to pinnacles next sunday, it will be upper 80s to low 90s and gorgeous there.

Ubergoober · « **Reply #18 on:** August 24, 2006, 08:57:45 PM »

Quote from: "F4?"

It clocks in at 10C.

Pffffffffftttt. 5.10a.

F4? · « **Reply #19 on:** August 24, 2006, 09:27:26 PM »

Hey Burner,

Sounds like you had a good session out there. I had done the 10c next to Digital Distress, but kept to the left higher up (not sure if it's the same route you did). The loose hold high up freaked me out, but is okay if you pulled down.

Thanks for the rating feedback on Winking. I'm shy to rate stuff.

DC Angel Cat is easy if you see the stems. Plus the rock needs to clean up abit more.

So Ubber, you say 10a or 5.9? I think the rating is height dependant.

We're heading to the Pinns on Saturday.

I need to get in better shape for the Grotto.

PM me for future Pinns stuff. I have to go down there next weekend or so.

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Author Topic: Anyone climbing at the Pinnacles lately? (Read 11982 times)