Crazy from the heat

[JC w KC redux]

There was a band of old dudes aiding on Machete today.
They were laughing, chugging along and generally having a good time until the sun came over.
They high tailed it out just in the nick of time

Aaron and Geoff on The West Face pitch 1 (good warm up to get in the aiding mood/mode





Geoff and Aaron on Rock Around the Clock





JC pooped after attempting Los Banditos
clink seemed to get a kick out of watching me make progress

[Brad Young]

The West Face start is obvious.

Then the first pitch of Rock Around the Clock and the first pitch of Los Banditos?

Practicing? Did you finish the first pitch of Los Banditos (there's good quality pucker power in that finish).

[JC w KC redux]

The West Face start is obvious.

Then the first pitch of Rock Around the Clock and the first pitch of Los Banditos?

Practicing? Did you finish the first pitch of Los Banditos (there's good quality pucker power in that finish).

Correct on all counts. I wish I could have finished but I ran out of gas on LB and bailed off bolt 6.
I was happy to get that far

[Brad Young]

Well, did you at least look at the free moves above the last aid bolt?

I'll bet you go back.

[clink]

good quality pucker power

Kissy

[F4?]

Nice, the route needs traffic and soft brushing.

That exit free move is 5.9...just like the last crux on Lava falls (which is really 5.8 now, but it was 5.9)

It's 1yr post wing repair, so I can go back this fall.

[Brad Young]

...It's 1yr post wing repair, so I can go back this fall.

Damn, that's good news. But, if you're going back to climbing let's call that season autumn instead 

[JC w KC redux]

Well, did you at least look at the free moves above the last aid bolt?

I'll bet you go back.

All I could see from my high point at bolt 6 was the bulge/roof - but I will go back eventually...

I should mention that Aaron shared some cool tips and was really supportive.
clink was infinitely patient.
Geoff is a hoot.

[cobbledik]

Such great moves from aid to free on LB.

Unrequested advice, leave your ladders behind on the last bolt when you go free. You won't need them again and it's easier for your second to collect them than for the leader to futz about retrieving them while trying to crush the freeclimbing gnar.

[mungeclimber]

[Brad Young]

Such great moves from aid to free on LB.

Unrequested advice, leave your ladders behind on the last bolt when you go free. You won't need them again and it's easier for your second to collect them than for the leader to futz about retrieving them while trying to crush the freeclimbing gnar.

Yes, free it without the aiders in tow. In fact, I stepped out of the aiders to start the free climbing. And don't be afraid to fall - I can't think of too many safer falls; that last bolt is bomber, and it's all air below.

[clink]

that last bolt is bomber

 Dude, what about the others?

 That is funny because we were talking about them yesterday and wondering how long the bolts are on the ladders.

[Brad Young]

Dude, what about the others?

 That is funny because we were talking about them yesterday and wondering how long the bolts are on the ladders.

All of ours on Los Banditos are long bolts, and they are all very good. It's just that that last one is the one that counts if you fall off freeing it 

[Aaron McDonald]

Here are a few more images from our adventure.

[JC w KC redux]

thanks Aaron - viewers scroll right for a clinker on that last pic

Rob - I was actually using one of those Yates adjustable daisies on the climb and bought one over the weekend.
Mine is yellow though - no orange available

I also saw there is a Metolius version - reasons why the Yates is preferred?

[mungeclimber]

I've heard horror stories about the metolius slippage. Ask dave daly. In the field I see way more adjustable yates/fish adj than I do metolius.

mhudon and others have a different rig that's worth looking at too.

[cobbledik]

Slippage isn't too bad on the metolius. The main problems are #1: they won't hold a factor 2 daisy fall (which isn't that bad since you prob don't want to be on the receiving end of that and the rope will be there to catch you) and #2 (the deal-breaker) You cannot release them once they're under load. Not an issue when going straight up, but if you're doing a hard traverse or aiding a roof, you'll be SOL.

[JC w KC redux]

good to know guys - thanks.
thanks for the advice on going free too Kevin

[F4?]

The adjustable with a fifi on it sounds like the ticket.

I like to get off that daisy asap. With the hook you can flip it off.

Yeah, all the bolts on los banditos are good, my bad one was pulled (perfectionists!).

The best part of the route was Jim always asking..."how about a shortty bolt?"..."I have a few"

[waldo]

I was out on Chockstone today.  It rained.  I could have used a jacket at noon.  Killer heat, where did you go?