Author Topic: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin  (Read 11264 times)

Aaron McDonald

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Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
« Reply #20 on: August 12, 2014, 09:09:25 AM »
Do you need a head lap to do feather canyon? Is the chimney really dark?

Aaron McDonald

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Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
« Reply #21 on: August 12, 2014, 09:40:47 AM »
Clink, I never do MFAs.  I like to be surprised.

The point is to lay claim to the route prior to Brad.

Aaron McDonald

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Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
« Reply #22 on: August 12, 2014, 09:41:34 AM »
draw a line overview on that pic please showing the approach and the chimney please!

That would be greatly appreciated!

waldo

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Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
« Reply #23 on: August 12, 2014, 03:11:25 PM »
Aaron,

The right slot starts twenty feet or so above the slope.  Some loose 4th class is required to reach the entrance.  Once you get into the slot, walk almost all the way to the N end before you start climbing.  It's more or less solid stemming with bolts (2 or 3 ancient ones) found on alternating sides of the chimney.  It's dark and pretty strange in there, but no headlamp is required.   

F4?

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Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
« Reply #24 on: August 12, 2014, 07:46:07 PM »
Quote
Aaron,

The right slot starts twenty feet or so above the slope.  Some loose 4th class is required to reach the entrance.  Once you get into the slot, walk almost all the way to the N end before you start climbing.  It's more or less solid stemming with bolts (2 or 3 ancient ones) found on alternating sides of the chimney.  It's dark and pretty strange in there, but no headlamp is required.  
Come one....don't give too much. It's all there.

Squiddo @ the 1st bolt or past it..

Gear:
long runners
draws
cams to #2 Camalot
'6 Cam
6 pack of Tecate (cans)
few carabiners





Btw, the Admin is messing with me again...so much for free speech.
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waldo

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Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
« Reply #25 on: August 12, 2014, 09:10:34 PM »
Come one....don't give too much. It's all there.

You're right.  It's the Roper in me.


6 pack of Tecate (cans) -- We agree on what constitutes a complete rack.
few carabiners





Btw, the Admin is messing with me again...so much for free speech.

NOAL

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Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
« Reply #26 on: August 13, 2014, 12:14:09 PM »
F4 where on the route did you need all those cams?  We brought none and the route is pretty mellow except for the old bolts in chimney.(I like that slung knob backing up the bolt in your pic)  Last time I was there the anchor at the top of the first pitch was re-bolted with new stainless hardware including rap rings  which makes it easy if you just want to check out the bottom of the chimney or you get spooked by the old bolts.

F4?

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Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
« Reply #27 on: August 13, 2014, 07:37:11 PM »
2nd pitch had a great spot for a #2 Camalot after the 1st bolt.

After that I think the cams were just for good looks.....

Nice someone replaced some bolts.

I think it's one of my favorite routes for sure.


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NOAL

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Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
« Reply #28 on: August 14, 2014, 12:46:28 PM »
 F4,good to know.  Next time I do the route I'll bring a #2 cause the bolts in that chimney be baaad.

F4?

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Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
« Reply #29 on: August 15, 2014, 05:51:59 PM »
and the 6 pack of tecate, there are some great ledges along the way.

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Gavin

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Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
« Reply #30 on: August 17, 2014, 10:00:55 PM »
So Gavin, the insides of those corridors are littered with bird pieces. Is this the work of the peregrine pair that nested in the area?

Bird pieces could be from prey remains left by the peregrine falcon pair. The corridors and crevices likely also make for decent roosts for owls - great-horned or barn - and the prey remains could be from those raptor species as well. If there were any castings around - big pellets with bone, fur, feathers, etc. in them - that would more likely be due to owls.

clink

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Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
« Reply #31 on: August 18, 2014, 06:21:07 AM »
Quote
Bird pieces could be from prey remains left by the peregrine falcon pair. The corridors and crevices likely also make for decent roosts for owls - great-horned or barn - and the prey remains could be from those raptor species as well. If there were any castings around - big pellets with bone, fur, feathers, etc. in them - that would more likely be due to owls.

Thanks Gavin. Next time up I will look for castings. And take more pics.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

F4?

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Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
« Reply #32 on: August 18, 2014, 06:02:41 PM »
Mud Falcons?
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clink

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Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
« Reply #33 on: August 18, 2014, 08:29:08 PM »
Sack lunch.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

F4?

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Re: H&L Slaughterhouse? Question for Gavin
« Reply #34 on: August 18, 2014, 09:26:46 PM »
And keep an eye out for Squiddo.....haven't seen that guy on this forum in ages. He might have gotten lost in that corridor (he usually does).
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