Author Topic: Fall tick list. What do you have in your sights?  (Read 38281 times)

clink

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Re: Fall tick list. What do you have in your sights?
« Reply #20 on: September 25, 2014, 10:09:23 PM »
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Won't you agree all of the rock around it is crap...

Define "all"
Causing trouble when not climbing.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Fall tick list. What do you have in your sights?
« Reply #21 on: September 26, 2014, 07:13:03 AM »
No, no, no. One of the beauties of this forum is the mix of abilities and interest levels. Of men and women. Of duffers and young kids with yet-unscarred knees. Leave it be...

Atom is moving to Jeantucky so it's most likely moot anyway :(
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Brad Young

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Re: Fall tick list. What do you have in your sights?
« Reply #22 on: September 26, 2014, 07:14:48 AM »
Atom is moving to Jeantucky so it's most likely moot anyway :(

OK, I'll bite. I know where "Prunetucky" is. Jeantucky?

I'll take my answer offline or online Genius Boy.

mungeclimber

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Re: Fall tick list. What do you have in your sights?
« Reply #23 on: September 26, 2014, 03:32:07 PM »
Balconies Project.
Balconies Regular Route
Get on some sport at Mono.
Feather Canyon is highly intriguing.
Something on Flumes has my eye.
Rebolt some more. I didn't get to very many last season.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

JC w KC redux

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Re: Fall tick list. What do you have in your sights?
« Reply #24 on: September 26, 2014, 03:41:19 PM »
Something on Flumes has my eye.
Rebolt some more. I didn't get to very many last season.

Just as an FYI - someone has a project started on Flumes to the right of Romper Room.
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Brad Young

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Re: Fall tick list. What do you have in your sights?
« Reply #25 on: September 26, 2014, 04:06:52 PM »
Just as an FYI - someone has a project started on Flumes to the right of Romper Room.


I think that this project you mention that is to the right of Romper Room is abandoned. I suspect you're referring to the one that Tyler broke his leg on. After he and Josh abandoned it, Josh was pretty sure that someone else added another bolt or two. But those additions were at least four years ago and nothing seems to have changed since.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Fall tick list. What do you have in your sights?
« Reply #26 on: September 26, 2014, 07:24:39 PM »
I think that this project you mention that is to the right of Romper Room is abandoned. I suspect you're referring to the one that Tyler broke his leg on. After he and Josh abandoned it, Josh was pretty sure that someone else added another bolt or two. But those additions were at least four years ago and nothing seems to have changed since.

Some folks told us they started up it one day and then realized it didn't keep going so they bailed off.
I am planning to do some rebolting on that wall eventually. Should I strip it if and when I do?
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Brad Young

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Re: Fall tick list. What do you have in your sights?
« Reply #27 on: September 26, 2014, 08:29:14 PM »

Some folks told us they started up it one day and then realized it didn't keep going so they bailed off.
I am planning to do some rebolting on that wall eventually. Should I strip it if and when I do?


You know, it's over the trail enough that it might be a problem as a new route. Plus, if I recall, they found the climbing pretty darn mossy and dirty.

Josh checks in here enough that he probably has an opinion about what, if anything, should be done.

mynameismud

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Re: Fall tick list. What do you have in your sights?
« Reply #28 on: September 26, 2014, 09:24:37 PM »
Plus, if I recall, they found the climbing pretty darn mossy and dirty.


This cannot be a reason...   That would be to many good routes!
Here's to sweat in your eye

Atomizer

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Re: Fall tick list. What do you have in your sights?
« Reply #29 on: September 28, 2014, 08:09:30 AM »
Atom is moving to Jeantucky so it's most likely moot anyway :(

Rumor is true. I'm moving to Bishop to pursue the art projects that distance from the sierra has prevented. Pscyhed to ski, climb and make art all winter... and eat really well. Also met a really nice girl, Jean from Kentucky (Jean Tucky), who has fallen into favor with me. I do plan on attending the Work days with Jean. At this point I've moved out of my place in SC and am temporarily around until the trimming season ends.

As for my goals at the Pinns. I would hope that John Bolte and I can finish our Condor Crags route. it would be cool to climb Foreplay, Best 5.11 in the monument... Brad you listening??? and generally just show Jean where I came from.

Brad Young

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Re: Fall tick list. What do you have in your sights?
« Reply #30 on: September 28, 2014, 09:30:57 AM »
I am listening (in between other computer work).

Has she really "fallen into favor with you?"

More like you got lucky and you've "fallen into favor with her."   :D   :D

F4?

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Re: Fall tick list. What do you have in your sights?
« Reply #31 on: September 28, 2014, 06:43:33 PM »
What Condor Crag route?? Interesting....
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MUCCI

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Re: Fall tick list. What do you have in your sights?
« Reply #32 on: September 28, 2014, 08:04:00 PM »
Munge turned me on to a few comments above about the project to the right of romper room.

I think we started it in 05-06,  decent climbing up to the little headwall.  2 bolts were placed then Tyler tried to hook to get a bolt about 10 inches higher than he could drill from on stance, and that bolt would have been a good protector from the slab.

The hook popped and he plummeted, exploding his ankle.  It took us 3.5 hours to get to the car from the flumes...

I don't know when, but 2 more bolts were added to the line.  Probably a few years after our attempt.  5 peice, with fixe hangers I think.

The line would stop before the large headwall toward the top, probably 80-100 feet, then with an anchor you could TR the slab on the right of what would have been our bolted line.

All of this was done without our knowledge of the "no new routes over trails".  It was later I knew we had made a mistake, but did not venture back because we were going to try and finish it when Tylers ankle healed, which it never did.

I think it would be a decent climb, but as most it is a bit chossy, the upper slab above our bolts looks pretty heads up.

In terms of it's current status, I am not going to be able to do anything to the route for a while.  Finishing it would be nice, if only to not have drilled for nothing.  However, I believe the scope of the route is not in favor with the pinnacles ethic of abstaining from trailside new routeing.

I would ask that it not be touched, as I would prefer to discuss some options, and if a decision to pull and patch the bolts, I take care of it.  That route reminds me of how quickly a life can change forever, to the tune of drilling a bolt.  Since then, on many FA's I still think of Tyler and that fall.

I Think the best option for the interim would be to camo the hangers.

Thanks for the thoughts, and hope the season goes great for everybody, I miss the adventure...


JC w KC redux

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Re: Fall tick list. What do you have in your sights?
« Reply #33 on: September 28, 2014, 08:24:40 PM »
thanks Josh,
I wouldn't have touched it without say so.
It sounds like it might be okay and I don't think it's that close to the trail.
Sorry about your friend and sorry someone poached it.
You make it sound like you are out for the season.
Come join us in a couple weeks for some work with the Mrs.?
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mungeclimber

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Re: Fall tick list. What do you have in your sights?
« Reply #34 on: September 29, 2014, 02:52:11 PM »
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I don't think it's that close to the trail.

That was my thought too, but much depends on how much loose rock there is on it right now. Could the loose rock be cleaned up enough to warrant it staying, just to be sure?  Maybe someone could send Mucci some pics offline to evaluate?

Anyways, just talking out of my butt. I defer to Mucci.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

MUCCI

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Re: Fall tick list. What do you have in your sights?
« Reply #35 on: September 29, 2014, 09:03:07 PM »
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I wouldn't have touched it without say so

Didn't mean to infer that JC, we are all fortunate that mudsters don't jump lines ;D

I think it would be a cool climb, but honestly can't make a good call after so many years, and the memory of the big crushing fall.  However, the matrix was good but mossy down low, and looked the same higher up.

Maybe somebody can take some pix of the line if they get a chance for me?

It would be cool if a consensus on the trail can be made.




I am pretty sure there was a bolt in the moss chute immediately left of our project line, right of romper room.  I checked my notes on the area but didn't seem to mention it.  Old leeper IIRC

clink

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Re: Fall tick list. What do you have in your sights?
« Reply #36 on: September 30, 2014, 06:13:49 AM »
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but did not venture back because we were going to try and finish it when Tylers ankle healed, which it never did.

 Mucci, that is sobering. Sorry for your partner getting hurt.
We eyed that line, if it is where I am thinking.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

clink

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Re: Fall tick list. What do you have in your sights?
« Reply #37 on: September 30, 2014, 06:15:24 PM »
Has anyone climbed all the McConachie routes? Have any of the McConachie's climbed all of them?
Causing trouble when not climbing.

F4?

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Re: Fall tick list. What do you have in your sights?
« Reply #38 on: September 30, 2014, 07:06:48 PM »
Good question.. I'm sure Jim has...Brad and Mr Mud not far behind.

If you do embark on that endeavor...good luck.
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mynameismud

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Re: Fall tick list. What do you have in your sights?
« Reply #39 on: October 01, 2014, 10:04:43 AM »
I have not done the project on the Snail.
Here's to sweat in your eye