Author Topic: Barbarians at the gate  (Read 57943 times)

JC w KC redux

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Barbarians at the gate
« on: September 27, 2014, 06:01:32 PM »
Went up Citadel way with the intention of doing a little climbing and refurbishing the anchor on the Sentry.
I removed the rotten nylon and fitted equalized rappel chains - but they would only facilitate an awkward rappel down a rotten face to a tree/shrub enema and would not facilitate the TR setup properly. The TR could easily be accomplished with a couple biners and sliding/magic X combined with the directional bolt. I doubt anyone will ever set that up again. I decided not to waste the metal.
I put an extra screwlink on the single anchor bolt to facilitate a rappel or belayed downclimb back down the 5.5 route.
In retrospect - since the hanger already puts the screwlink and the rope in the proper orientation - I should not have added this link - no harm done - just a waste of metal/money.

Single anchor bolt on The Sentry with an added screwlink





JC leads the Sentry





This was the best part of the climb :)





We left the Sentry and scrambled around to the back of the Citadel

That didn't feel like 4th class to me - no doubt another one of those where someone climbed it without a rope ages ago so it had to be 4th class...





This was more like it - kind of reminded me of The Lamb - Citadel Class Four
I trailed the rope in case Kat wanted it





Kat thought she would want a rope but she ended up free soloing after me








We met a couple youngsters up top - Eric and Robert - they were kind enough to let us rap first (instead of going back down the "walk off".
Fun day with a little more free soloing and socializing on the way out :)




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Brad Young

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Re: Barbarians at the gate
« Reply #1 on: September 28, 2014, 07:50:34 AM »
Gotta love your thread titles.

And what else did you do? Did you pull off the TR route on the Sentry clean.

How did you like J.R.'s homemade hangers? I assume they are still on the formation? I always thought they were pretty beefy and well made.

clink

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Re: Barbarians at the gate
« Reply #2 on: September 28, 2014, 08:53:14 AM »
 I saw a barbarian at the parking lot. He is from a small fierce local tribe and has four brothers. A Michoaconahey or somthing like that. Red flags were going off as he smiled and talked, this guy could break me in two with one arm tied behind his back, so I would need a well planned strategy, if I were to ever grapple with him. A barbarian for sure.

 Having 3 brothers and many "foster" brothers, I know things. I bet there are interesting stories to be told about the 5 brothers. Hope to hear a few.
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clink

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Re: Barbarians at the gate
« Reply #3 on: September 28, 2014, 09:16:16 AM »
 Caleb and his twin boys,Layton and Colton, Aaron and I climbed Feeling Lucky Punk first. Next Caleb led Where's Waldo in one pitch, Aaron and I followed attentively. We all hiked down to the "Corridor" and showed the boys the route we are working on, they were excited to find bones. Then we went up a side ramp to a slide/clamber down a squeeze gully to a tree above a drop off. From the tree we climbed out a horizontal branch to 3rd/4th class scrambling left into a chimney/talus cave system that led us to the beginning of Feather Canyon's climbing. Could not have had more fun in a day.

 We were listening for you, JC and KC.

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JC w KC redux

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Re: Barbarians at the gate
« Reply #4 on: September 28, 2014, 08:40:35 PM »
I saw a barbarian at the parking lot. He is from a small fierce local tribe and has four brothers. A Michoaconahey or somthing like that.
I bet there are interesting stories to be told about the 5 brothers. Hope to hear a few.

There's an additional/6th brother now :)



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JC w KC redux

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Re: Barbarians at the gate
« Reply #5 on: September 28, 2014, 09:15:32 PM »
Gotta love your thread titles.
And what else did you do? Did you pull off the TR route on the Sentry clean.
How did you like J.R.'s homemade hangers? I assume they are still on the formation? I always thought they were pretty beefy and well made.

Pull off is probably a good description for that POS - no interest in getting on it - besides, clink says TR's aren't real routes :)

The hangers are still there. There were three just like those on Drizzly Drain/Drizzy Drain Direct - are you sure they're homemade? I guess it's certainly possible since I have not seen those anywhere else.
They are beefy but the one lead bolt is oriented to lever out on the bolt in a fall. Not that anyone will ever fall on the thing or even do the route :) The anchor is a carbon steel 5 pc. I suspect Richards was the FAist on Drizzly Drain Direct and may have added the second bolt on Drizzly Drain too (since the first bolt is a star dryvin on a Leeper and the three other bolts are 5 pc - not the standard in 1966).
It sounds like those hangers may be JR's signature. 
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Barbarians at the gate
« Reply #6 on: September 29, 2014, 06:01:01 AM »
We were listening for you, JC and KC.

Sorry bro - we didn't have the gusto + I knew I was going back yesterday - which I didn't know when we talked earlier in the week. Looks like you guys had a blast. We'll get up there soon. What did Caleb rate Waldo? 5.2?
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clink

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Re: Barbarians at the gate
« Reply #7 on: September 29, 2014, 07:50:51 AM »
Quote
What did Caleb rate Waldo? 5.2?

5.10a
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Barbarians at the gate
« Reply #8 on: September 29, 2014, 09:20:39 AM »
5.10a

Aw c'mon dude - you mean he didn't go back down and do it again in his approach shoes just to convince himself how easy it was :)
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clink

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Re: Barbarians at the gate
« Reply #9 on: September 29, 2014, 10:24:26 AM »
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Aw c'mon dude - you mean he didn't go back down and do it again in his approach shoes just to convince himself how easy it was Smiley

That's funny because he led Feeling Lucky Punk with his new approach shoes and wants to try an 8 or 9 in them.
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Barbarians at the gate
« Reply #10 on: September 29, 2014, 11:22:10 AM »
Check this out clink - me practicing the art of screwing the second.
Luckily Jim found the bolt that I overlooked and clipped it for Bill.


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clink

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Re: Barbarians at the gate
« Reply #11 on: September 29, 2014, 12:16:58 PM »
JC screwing around is an art.
Interested in a romp FA for Sat?
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F4?

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Re: Barbarians at the gate
« Reply #12 on: September 29, 2014, 04:54:42 PM »
that's cheating having those 2 brothers.....
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MUCCI

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Re: Barbarians at the gate
« Reply #13 on: September 29, 2014, 09:06:03 PM »
Wow that is screwing the second, proper screwed.

cool report on the citadel, awesome back there.

Brad Young

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Re: Barbarians at the gate
« Reply #14 on: September 30, 2014, 05:45:07 PM »

Interested in a romp FA for Sat?


Total bullshit to do FAs at Pinns out of season and without me.

Get your lily white asses up here and we'll finish the SPH season with some FAs at the new crag (J.C. has been there Clink - you haven't yet. And your name isn't yet in lights up here for having done famous, wonderful, first ascents on granite).

clink

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Re: Barbarians at the gate
« Reply #15 on: September 30, 2014, 06:03:15 PM »
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Get your lily white asses up here and we'll finish the SPH season with some FAs at the new crag

Like a statue of a Greek god's ass.

Your routes are too damn hard.


Tempted though. Any weekdays free?
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Brad Young

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Re: Barbarians at the gate
« Reply #16 on: September 30, 2014, 06:50:01 PM »

Your routes are too damn hard.


Bull. That's just the granite talking. Granite ain't Pinns. We need to make you good at both...

Quote

Tempted though. Any weekdays free?


We got some old time country sayings up here. One of 'em that you've probably heard is: "Is the Pope Catholic?"

One that you probably haven't heard is: "Is a frog's ass water-tight?"

Of course I have some weekdays free.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Barbarians at the gate
« Reply #17 on: September 30, 2014, 07:33:57 PM »
Like a statue of a Greek god's ass.

Sure...if Greek gods subsisted on lard 3 times a day :)
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mungeclimber

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Re: Barbarians at the gate
« Reply #18 on: September 30, 2014, 08:34:02 PM »
Total bullshit to do FAs at Pinns out of season and without me.

Get your lily white asses up here and we'll finish the SPH season with some FAs at the new crag (J.C. has been there Clink - you haven't yet. And your name isn't yet in lights up here for having done famous, wonderful, first ascents on granite).


NOW you see what I'm saying. :)
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

clink

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Re: Barbarians at the gate
« Reply #19 on: October 01, 2014, 05:29:34 AM »
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NOW you see what I'm saying. Smiley

Moses and his Promised Land.

Quote
Sure...if Greek gods subsisted on lard 3 times a day Smiley

Feeling is believing.
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