Trench Warfare

[JC w KC redux]

Out to the Western Front yesterday for some life without a net. YFT 5.5R

There is some interesting rock on this side of the formation that I hadn't seen on our previous trip.
Some of the layers have an ash matrix (tuff).
There are alternating, tilted layers of lava and ash down low. From a distance, there are some really interesting greenish tints (from the ash). The color differences are especially pronounced at The Mushroom Towers.
That ash matrix also makes for some unusually loose climbing in spots, so get ready for a slightly different type of warfare

The route - don't be fooled by foreshortening - this thing is about 400 feet long and essentially a free solo for the leader





On route – the rope is just for show. I had a rack but there is no meaningful pro. The first 200 feet is described as 4th class - your mileage may vary - 4th class always feels like a crap chute to me and I take gear when I see that description. 





Looking back from the token bolt - about 300 feet off the deck (technically the 2nd pitch)





Looking down to Kat from the bolt
She is sitting on the "flat spot" body belay 200 feet up the route (shown on Brad's topo). When I accidentally climbed a bit past this spot "leading" (a free solo) the first pitch, I sat down, braced myself and asked her to try not to fall. When she got to the flat spot, I had her sit down and I continued on pitch 2.





Kat follows p2 - climb wherever you like - it's a sea of rock

[Brad Young]

Looks like a pretty day out there.

We had a pretty day too. Two pretty days, actually.

And I am currently wearing thin Capaliene gloves and pants and socks. Yesterday I hung on the 5.10d offwidth. Then I lowered off. Steve climbed through my gear and I tried to follow. I got through the offwidth (the armbar instead of the deep fist jam was the key). From the ledge I assumed I'd "walk" the 5.9 squeeze chimney. No dice; although Steve, Laura and Alan could all get into the squeeze, apparently my chest is just too big and I absolutely couldn't get into it. I gave it everything I had, climbing what was an offwidth for me with my body at a 45 degree angle. Thrashed from making it halfway up, I lowered off.

Then I totally trashed myself getting partway up the 5.11b offwidth (I didn't tape very thoroughly though, a significant mistake).

After that I started up the 5.10d crack, realized that I'd left the critical piece of pro below, lowered off, tried it again from the start, but too tired, I fell/hung on gear. Spent from that, I hung on the 5.10d face above too.

Today I completely blew myself out on a 5.10c crack, falling off the "5.10a" face at the top.

My hands have serious, bloody gobis all over (one the size of a quarter on the left hand is from fist jamming). I slathered Joshua Tree Salve on them (hence the gloves). I've got the salve all over my bleeding left ankle too, and on my knees (and so the pants and socks).

It was a good weekend. I feel like I gained strength.

[JC w KC redux]

Talk about making lemonade!
Jeez - we'll see ya in a few days scabby

[mynameismud]

sounds like a fun day

[clink]

The route - don't be fooled by foreshortening - this thing is about 400 feet long and essentially a free solo for the leader

Bring a bolt kit and place a few for me next time.  

Then I totally trashed myself getting partway up the 5.11b offwidth

I cruised a 5.6 chimney on Goodrich. No tape even. Aaron pre-chalked it for us.

[clink]

apparently my chest is just too big

Higher rating for manly chests?

[JC w KC redux]

Bring a bolt kit and place a few for me next time.  

It's your route knucklehead!
Do we need to add some pink bolts?
End the suspense and divulge the meaning of YFT - your first time?

[Brad Young]

Higher rating for manly chests?

Nope, never. It's just the breaks for different body sizes.

There's a 5.9 offwidth down in the Lost World that I've tried to lead twice. It's parallel sided at perfect 4 1/2 Camalot size for the last 30 or 40 feet. My knee won't fit in. Nothing I do can get my knee in that crack. I can't do the moves all in a row on lead. Without a knee in the crack every move is way, way hard.

Last time I tried it Dawson followed it clean and pronounced it "yeah, 5.9." He could fit his knee in the crack.

I agree, it's still 5.9.

[Brad Young]

It's your route knucklehead!

I think he knew that.

[Aaron McDonald]

There's a 5.9 offwidth down in the Lost World that I've tried to lead twice. It's parallel sided at perfect 4 1/2 Camalot size for the last 30 or 40 feet. My knee won't fit in. Nothing I do can get my knee in that crack. I can't do the moves all in a row on lead. Without a knee in the crack every move is way, way hard.

Sound like you need to levitate!

[Brad Young]

Sound like you need to levitate!

Yeah, since I use all the techniques in Leavittation, levitation might be my only recourse. On the other hand, after two lead tries I've kinda written that one off as a route I can ever lead. 

[clink]

levitation might be my only recourse.

Hydrogen filled modified wetsuit. No smoking or you'll become the Hindenbrad.

[clink]

YFT - your first time?

Young Foolish Traveler. Not the original but more appropriate.

The second mushroom should be Young Foolish Jumper, that FA was pure insanity.

[Brad Young]

... you'll become the Hindenbrad.

For an old guy you sometimes display a pretty quick wit.

[Aaron McDonald]

Yeah, since I use all the techniques in Leavittation, levitation might be my only recourse. On the other hand, after two lead tries I've kinda written that one off as a route I can ever lead. 

Yeah that is the point! I was assuming you exhausted the Randy/Tony tricks. Here is a video that will help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K78t2-W2jag

[JC w KC redux]

I think he knew that.

I think I knew he knew that and you knew he knew that or at least you thought you did - but he is old and it is a big part of our friendship to give each other grief. I know you knew that

and for all this "it" talk

YFT = You F'ing Threadjackers!

[Brad Young]

YFT = You F'ing Threadjackers!

No-one is threadjacking anything.

Here is how it works:

-  J.C. and K.C. climb at Pinnacles most Saturdays;

-  On Saturday or Sunday J.C. posts a brief report on what they did;

-  We all read it with interest;

-  That report/thread then serves as the normal location for everyone's comments back and forth on almost every subject they want to discuss for that week (or two weeks if J.C. and K.C. actually skip a Saturday).

How is this thread any different? 

[clink]

-  That report/thread then serves as the normal location for everyone's comments back and forth on almost every subject they want to discuss for that week (or two weeks if J.C. and K.C. actually skip a Saturday).

Yep

[JC w KC redux]

-  We all read it with interest;

-  That report/thread then serves as the normal location for everyone's comments back and forth on almost every subject they want to discuss for that week (or two weeks if J.C. and K.C. actually skip a Saturday).

Funny but there seems to be a lack of data to support the first claim.

I got my abdominal exercise for the day from your full reply, so that's okay.

[mynameismud]

but part of the thread tradition is JC and KC giving at least one person grief for thread jacking.  So the tradition was once again upheld