Author Topic: How to: Bolting on lead, ground up, by hand, stance and hooking.  (Read 6716 times)

kylequeener

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I'm reaching out here to see if I can glean some years of wisdom from the veteran ground up group here. In short, I know how to bolt, but I've never gone ground up on lead before. I know... I know, I'm a euro-homo-hang-dog-poser-rap-bolter (not at Pinnacles), but I am what I am. But I repent my shortcomings and aim to establish a new line, in PERFECT style, in our beloved Pinnacles.

What I don't know, and only speculate at is what to do with all that bolting junk while free climbing. What should I do with the hand drill? I fear whipping and taking a 3/8" SDS bit in the leg. Maybe that's part of the game, but I'd enjoy not using my EMT skills upon myself. Where does the hammer go? Usually I let mine dangle below my feet but that won't work at Pinnacles while free climbing. Maybe a holster? Any enlightenment on hooking? What kind of hook works best, or should I have a quiver of hooks at my disposal?

I can see some concern about posting this kind of information online. I know at the rock gym I cannot instruct anyone on climbing over the counter while I'm working because it would leave us liable if they went out a got injured or died. Usually we just show them the pictures in the instruction packets or point them towards a copy of Freedom of the Hills. However, there are no instruction packets for G-U bolting. I'm, for the most part, a pretty competent person and prudent as a climber so I could probably figure this out all by myself but if anyone could chime in and give me examples of how they go about it I would remember your gracious advice will tapping away. If this proves to be inappropriate for the Forum I could always send out my personal e-mail address.

-Kyle

Brad Young

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Re: How to: Bolting on lead, ground up, by hand, stance and hooking.
« Reply #1 on: October 20, 2014, 09:59:54 AM »

...but I am what I am. But I repent my shortcomings and aim to establish a new line, in PERFECT style, in our beloved Pinnacles.


This guy is for real. I like him.

Seriously, the best way to learn is to go out with people who have done it. And maybe learn one bit (bolting in this rock for example) and then another (hooking on this rock).

clink

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Re: How to: Bolting on lead, ground up, by hand, stance and hooking.
« Reply #2 on: October 20, 2014, 12:05:14 PM »
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I'm a euro-homo-hang-dog-poser-rap-bolter (not at Pinnacles)

Oh yea, you'll fit right in. There is nothing better than the Pinns GU style.

I stuff all the implements in a "A5 bolt bag", it is a chalk bucket size bag with a draw string top. The hammer and bit holder are clipped to slings. My strategy is to place the bolt before the most committing sections so my partner has to lead the crux.

And what Brad said.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

mungeclimber

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Re: How to: Bolting on lead, ground up, by hand, stance and hooking.
« Reply #3 on: October 20, 2014, 12:21:38 PM »
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What should I do with the hand drill?

oh man, that's an open ended question! lol  Make a keeper sling that slides so that as you spin it doesn't bind up on itself.

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I fear whipping and taking a 3/8" SDS bit in the leg. Maybe that's part of the game, but I'd enjoy not using my EMT skills upon myself.

Yep, that's a risk. Put it in the bolt bag (runoutcustoms.com) when not in use.

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Where does the hammer go? Usually I let mine dangle below my feet but that won't work at Pinnacles while free climbing. Maybe a holster?

Dangle is ok if not moving. Moving it will hang on knobs impeding upward progress. Otherwise put in the harness gear loop. If the loop is too big, clip stuff to the loop to take up space.


Quote
Any enlightenment on hooking? What kind of hook works best, or should I have a quiver of hooks at my disposal?

Multiple types. Multiple hooks because if one breaks, maybe the other shitty knob will catch you. Beaks are not unheard of (e.g. Tomahawks).


On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

JC w KC redux

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Re: How to: Bolting on lead, ground up, by hand, stance and hooking.
« Reply #4 on: October 20, 2014, 03:07:33 PM »
My strategy is to place the bolt before the most committing sections so my partner has to lead the crux.

I think you meant to say run out the crux :)
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mynameismud

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Re: How to: Bolting on lead, ground up, by hand, stance and hooking.
« Reply #5 on: October 20, 2014, 05:42:03 PM »
I agree with the bolt bag.  A couple of companies make these and I have seen a few homemade bags.   The Hammer I will either let it dangle below my feet or put in a gear sling on my harness like it is a holster  I typically put the drill in the bolt bag.    The bolt bag I will either clip to my harness to put on a tag line then pull up when ready to drill.  I tend to do more and more of the later.

As far as hooks I have a wide selection of hooks and a few have been modified.  I also typically have at least a half dozen aid tie offs ( the thin red aid sling material ).  One thing that I have done a few times when hooking on delicate stuff especially on harder routes is to use a short loop of aid sling, put the edge of the hook on a piece of the aid sling then put that on the spot where the hook will go.  This keeps the hook from cutting through the aid placement since the sling helps to distribute the load.   This is very effective and had allowed me to hook on stuff that there is no way a hook alone will not cut through the rock.

I hope that makes sense if you have any questions I can bring a couple of hooks and some slings to show what I am talking about.  Actually when I get home I couple probably take a pic and post it.
Here's to sweat in your eye

JC w KC redux

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Re: How to: Bolting on lead, ground up, by hand, stance and hooking.
« Reply #6 on: October 20, 2014, 06:28:43 PM »
Just take clink along to show you how it's done.
Let him get the route started by drilling a bolt or two.
Now borrow his bolt bag and just run it out to the top.
clink will finish the bolting for you when he does the second ascent and you'll get the glory :)

No seriously - everything these guys are saying is good info.
I have a little cap that goes on the end of my drill bit that one of the masters gave me.
It's better than nothing - kind of like placing gear at Pinns.
Brad's advice of getting out with somebody experienced a few times is invaluable.
Everybody has their own style of drilling and fine nuances when it comes to how they like their gear.
With your strength, you should be able to handle all the extra weight and awkwardness.



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Atomizer

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Re: How to: Bolting on lead, ground up, by hand, stance and hooking.
« Reply #7 on: October 20, 2014, 06:38:46 PM »
I had no clue that people still put up routes at Pinnacles. But if you do the idea is to put up a 5.10 so dangerous in every respect that Brad will be stymied at his goal of climbing every route rated under 5.11 in the park.

Brad Young

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Re: How to: Bolting on lead, ground up, by hand, stance and hooking.
« Reply #8 on: October 20, 2014, 06:41:07 PM »
I had no clue that people still put up routes at Pinnacles. But if you do the idea is to put up a 5.10 so dangerous in every respect that Brad will be stymied at his goal of climbing every route rated under 5.11 in the park.

Atom:

1. That's not my goal;

2. E.S.A.D. (an old favorite from university days).

mynameismud

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Re: How to: Bolting on lead, ground up, by hand, stance and hooking.
« Reply #9 on: October 20, 2014, 06:43:28 PM »
Atomizer is correct.  It has to be totally sketch 5.10 with no possibility of TR'ing.  It then becomes a 5 star route.
Here's to sweat in your eye

Atomizer

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Re: How to: Bolting on lead, ground up, by hand, stance and hooking.
« Reply #10 on: October 20, 2014, 06:57:30 PM »
Atom:

1. That's not my goal;

2. E.S.A.D. (an old favorite from university days).

I'm sorry, I confused your goals. You are attempting to get Foreplay at the Pinns... at some point.


And yes a bolt bag is the way to go, just clip the hammer in some where and don't fall. Plus to learn what hooks can do at the Pinns I aided up a loose wall on TR. It was quite enlightening what lightweight people like myself can hook on.

mynameismud

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Re: How to: Bolting on lead, ground up, by hand, stance and hooking.
« Reply #11 on: October 20, 2014, 07:00:08 PM »
And most importantly always think light thoughts.
Here's to sweat in your eye

clink

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Re: How to: Bolting on lead, ground up, by hand, stance and hooking.
« Reply #12 on: October 21, 2014, 04:47:03 AM »
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You are attempting to get Foreplay at the Pinns... at some point.

Uh huh.
Causing trouble when not climbing.