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Author Topic: Rituals and magic.  (Read 51449 times)
mynameismud
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« Reply #20 on: December 03, 2014, 04:28:17 PM »

Hi and welcome to the forum.  With harder routes we typically give the routes 2 or 3 days of Sun to dry out.  Some of the easier routes really do not need much time.  The rock is definitely more fragile when well soaked. 
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Aaron McDonald
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« Reply #21 on: December 03, 2014, 04:57:36 PM »

Agreed.  Might not be the best time for a first visit to Pinns if you want to go climbing.
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mynameismud
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« Reply #22 on: December 03, 2014, 05:00:44 PM »

Everyday is a good day for a good first visit.
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waldo
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« Reply #23 on: December 04, 2014, 04:04:55 PM »

Bob, do you like chimneying? We were wondering you are an aficionado? Or do you only tolerate them?

Clink,  I used to be quite good with the wider ones, though I'm not the flexible kid I once was. I've got to warm up and take care of my right hamstring nowadays.
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AgentOrange
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« Reply #24 on: December 04, 2014, 06:42:10 PM »

Hello All,
I'll post here too because it seems somewhat relevant. I wanna climb Sunday. Is one day of dry weather enough to not damage the routes? (never been to the Pinns)
Totally stoked. Thanks for any info.

Kelley

Kelley - I think you might like this one now that it's good and wet. No worries on preserving the rock Smiley

[/URL
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clink
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« Reply #25 on: December 05, 2014, 08:23:15 PM »

Quote
I used to be quite good with the wider ones

Bob, there is a lot of nice wide stuff.

Quote
Kelley - I think you might like this one now that it's good and wet

Kelley, I recommend climbing with JC. He will lead all that kind of scary, poorly (or not at all) protected crap for you. Take my and KC's word on it. Grin
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Killer K
LoadStone Lovers
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« Reply #26 on: December 09, 2014, 09:57:20 AM »

Went out on Sunday. Probably was the only dry place to climb in nor cal! Anyway I was blown away by the cave trail and the sheer beauty of the area. We climbed the center route on the first sister which was awesome. Then I backed off the beginning of the wet kiss at the disco wall. Then we had a little time left so we hit the tourist trap and did thrill hammer and wee little one. Had a blast. I've always wanted to climb out here since my dad told me of getting scared shitless in the late sixties when he climbed out here as a kid living in santa cruz.... Everything I've ever heard about the pinns was that it was a total choss pile and I strongly disagree. Sure theres loose rock but the uniqueness of the rock matrix is unlike anything I've climbed before. I'll definitely be coming back!
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Brad Young
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« Reply #27 on: December 09, 2014, 10:27:45 AM »


Went out on Sunday. Probably was the only dry place to climb in nor cal! Anyway I was blown away by the cave trail and the sheer beauty of the area. We climbed the center route on the first sister which was awesome. Then I backed off the beginning of the wet kiss at the disco wall. Then we had a little time left so we hit the tourist trap and did thrill hammer and wee little one. Had a blast. I've always wanted to climb out here since my dad told me of getting scared shitless in the late sixties when he climbed out here as a kid living in santa cruz.... Everything I've ever heard about the pinns was that it was a total choss pile and I strongly disagree. Sure theres loose rock but the uniqueness of the rock matrix is unlike anything I've climbed before. I'll definitely be coming back!


Nice. There's good rock and bad at Pinns, but for sure, adventure lives there still. Hopefully it always will.

(And by the way, the only place I've ever gotten hurt climbing because of bad rock was in Yosemite Valley - go figure.)
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mynameismud
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« Reply #28 on: December 09, 2014, 07:56:32 PM »

good to hear you enjoyed it.
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clink
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« Reply #29 on: December 10, 2014, 05:21:05 AM »

Quote
I've always wanted to climb out here since my dad told me of getting scared shitless in the late sixties when he climbed out here as a kid living in santa cruz.... Everything I've ever heard about the pinns was that it was a total choss pile and I strongly disagree.

 There are really cool and extremely crappy routes. Climbing at the Pinns gets in your blood. In your case there may have been a genetic transfer from your dad.
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clink
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« Reply #30 on: January 19, 2015, 07:06:56 AM »

JC, Nelkins and I climbed via Meanderthal to the "cockpit" where we added a second belay bolt. Nelkins persevered through a stem stance, then up a wild slimey flare, to this years high point halfway up the chimney above. A perfectly clear, small pool of water formed in the middle of the cockpit.

 Thanks for a great day exploring guys. Aaron will be proud of your work. Hope this stokes your dreams for what's to follow after the closures are lifted.
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waldo
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« Reply #31 on: January 19, 2015, 06:23:12 PM »

 The left-side split I saw has a weakness, (similar looking to Waldo) that diagonals up and left and joins a chute not in that pic, above a rotten band. May be a little steeper also.

[/quote]

I'd be very careful with any weakness that looks like me!
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NOAL
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« Reply #32 on: January 19, 2015, 08:22:25 PM »

Quote
Hope this stokes your dreams for what's to follow after the closures are lifted.
Yep, all through out the day I have been thinking "hmmm...what's past those chockstones where the tree is poking out?"
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mungeclimber
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« Reply #33 on: January 19, 2015, 08:58:10 PM »

More pics!
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Brad Young
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« Reply #34 on: January 19, 2015, 09:27:11 PM »


 Yep, all through out the day I have been thinking "hmmm...what's past those chockstones where the tree is poking out?"


And, unless you can get up there and find out in the next 2 1/2 hours, you'll have to wait months.

Gavin announcing closures in 4... 3... 2... 1....

Rob, I TRed that face that you did on the west side of Bynum's Spire today. It felt remarkably like a short version of Aliens Ate My Buick, but with not-as-good rock. I'd call it 5.10b (no stars). Any thoughts on a name yet (tried to call you on my way home, but didn't reach you).
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NOAL
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« Reply #35 on: January 19, 2015, 09:43:41 PM »

Quote
And, unless you can get up there and find out in the next 2 1/2 hours, you'll have to wait months.
ARRRRGHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!
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mungeclimber
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« Reply #36 on: January 19, 2015, 10:13:27 PM »


Rob, I TRed that face that you did on the west side of Bynum's Spire today. It felt remarkably like a short version of Aliens Ate My Buick, but with not-as-good rock. I'd call it 5.10b (no stars). Any thoughts on a name yet (tried to call you on my way home, but didn't reach you).

I remember bad rock on it, kind of steep below the top, and kind of short.

How about a...

"A Play in Three Acts"

Since it's short (3 or so moves), a Toprope (play), and it's a great place to hang out and play and climb.

FA = unknown. I'm sure we weren't the first ones to TR it or the East arÍte.

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clink
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« Reply #37 on: January 19, 2015, 11:08:43 PM »

Quote
FA = unknown. I'm sure we weren't the first ones to TR it or the East arÍte.

The FA hasn't been done yet. It is like a 2 year old claiming to have run a marathon after being pushed 26.2 miles in a stroller.
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mungeclimber
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« Reply #38 on: January 19, 2015, 11:14:05 PM »

correction

"FTR = unknown"
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clink
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« Reply #39 on: January 20, 2015, 07:05:48 AM »

 I was explaining to JC how earlier this week Geoff Norris went on a tirade about how absolutely a TR is NOT a FA. A FA is ONLY ground up. It was quite entertaining, as he was SO serious.
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