Wasn't sure if anyone would be interested. .....
Team Aaron squared
We left SC at 5:00AM got to the valley on Friday morning on the 9th. Hiked our gear up to the base and it promptly started to rain. We to waited for about 45 minutes for the wall to dry and started up. The weather prediction was 11% on Friday and 4% on Saturday. Guess we were in the lucky 11%!
Aaron and I made it to dinner ledge around 3PM. Aaron was stoked to lead the Kor so he charged and took some time getting over the roof. We decided at that point that it would be a good idea to go to the intermediate belay on pitch four and clean and descend to Dinner ledge for dinner around 5PM. After descending we decided to pull the ropes just in case it started storming in the middle of the so we could make a fast get away. We chose to do this because of the inadequacy of foul weather bivy gear, although we did determine that Aaron could fit in the haul bag if things got really bad. We ate some hot food, had some tea and passed out. I slept for more than 11 hours.
I re-lead the Kor in the moring and noticed that we had company. The new team seemed to be moving up fast. Aaron spoke with the joining party and determined they were "Valley Locals". They we going for a one day ascent. After some discussion down below and an offer to pass, the new team attempted to do the Southern Man variation to try and get ahead of us.
I lead the 5th and set up the belay. Aaron jugged over to meet me at the top of the 5th. At the same time, the "Valley Locals" were trying to link the 2 pitches off brunch ledge and effectively blocked us from going up on the 6th. Once the "Valley Locals" team got to the belay spot and started building an anchor, I asked "You are planning on short fixing right?" He responded, "I am going to finish building the belay and I will assess the situation." In retrospect I am not sure now that he even new what I was talking about. His partner joined him at the belay, they took 30 minutes + to re-rack then started leading the now smaller 6th pitch. I knew we where hosed when the leader took only one or two steps in his aiders before placing a piece.
Aaron started leading the pitch as soon as the 2nd started jugging. I spent close to 3 hours at the top of the 5th belay. Luckily I had my Scott Sack which made the whole ordeal much more comfortable. Aaron lead the 6th and caught up with both team members at the top of the 6th. I cleaned the 6th and caught up to watch the 2nd leave just as I arrived. We decided to bail at this point due to the fact it was 3PM and that the dark would be upon us in a couple hours. I thought it would be better to get to the ground while we could still see. We made it back to the ground safe and sound after re climbing the first pitch and freeing a stuck rope.
This was Aarons first big wall overnight and I am glad I was there to share it with him. We learned and ton and now are a little wiser about the so called "Valley Locals." We are already making plans to go back and finish the route in February. Ton of fun!