Author Topic: Winter Ascent of The South Face  (Read 6562 times)

Aaron McDonald

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Winter Ascent of The South Face
« on: January 20, 2015, 11:29:11 AM »
The jokers


The plan


Waiting for the rock to dry


Pitch 1


Pitch 2




The hard-Kor




The bivy


Alpine glow




Re-leading the Kor


Start of pitch 5


Shut down by a slow party trying to pass --Click the link to see the video

https://plus.google.com/photos/118417619768789961879/albums/6103960870068969633/6103960893705289554?authkey=CLKq65eF5a-GsAE&pid=6103960893705289554&oid=118417619768789961879

Pitch 6


Top of 6


Down we go!




Can't wait to get back to the Valley!

Sunday on top of Arches Terrace....Bulging Puke?








mungeclimber

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Re: Winter Ascent of The South Face
« Reply #1 on: January 20, 2015, 11:33:59 AM »
Puketacular!
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mynameismud

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Re: Winter Ascent of The South Face
« Reply #2 on: January 20, 2015, 12:20:28 PM »
Cool, very nice views of Half Dome from there.
Here's to sweat in your eye

Brad Young

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Re: Winter Ascent of The South Face
« Reply #3 on: January 20, 2015, 12:28:58 PM »
Needs more text. Did you climb this this last weekend? Was it you who were trying to pass and got shut down? (I'd sure as hell retreat from there if I had to climb behind some noobs - there's a serious history on that wall of rockfall from the upper gully.)

Glad to see you're getting some of that wall thing done.

Aaron McDonald

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Re: Winter Ascent of The South Face
« Reply #4 on: January 20, 2015, 03:09:46 PM »
Wasn't sure if anyone would be interested. .....

Team Aaron squared

We left SC at 5:00AM  got to the valley on Friday morning on the 9th. Hiked our gear up to the base and it promptly started to rain. We to waited for about 45 minutes for the wall to dry and started up. The weather prediction was 11% on Friday and 4% on Saturday.  Guess we were in the lucky 11%!

Aaron and I made it to dinner ledge around 3PM. Aaron was stoked to lead the Kor so he charged and took some time getting over the roof.  We decided at that point that it would be a good idea to go to the intermediate belay on pitch four and clean and descend to Dinner ledge for dinner around 5PM.  After descending we decided to pull the ropes just in case it started storming in the middle of the so we could make a fast get away.  We chose to do this because of the inadequacy of foul weather bivy gear, although we did determine that Aaron could fit in the haul bag if things got really bad.  We ate some hot food, had some tea and passed out.  I slept for more than 11 hours.

I re-lead the Kor in the moring and noticed that we had company. The new team seemed to be moving up fast. Aaron spoke with the joining party and determined they were "Valley Locals".  They we going for a one day ascent.  After some discussion down below and an offer to pass, the new team attempted to do the Southern Man variation to try and get ahead of us.

I lead the 5th and set up the belay. Aaron jugged over to meet me at the top of the 5th. At the same time, the "Valley Locals" were trying to link the 2 pitches off brunch ledge and  effectively blocked us from going up on the 6th. Once the "Valley Locals" team got to the belay spot and started building an anchor, I asked "You are planning on short fixing right?" He responded, "I am going to finish building the belay and I will assess the situation." In retrospect I am not sure now that he even new what I was talking about. His partner joined him at the belay, they took 30 minutes + to re-rack then started leading the now smaller 6th pitch. I knew we where hosed when the leader took only one or two steps in his aiders before placing a piece.  

Aaron started leading the pitch as soon as the 2nd started jugging.  I spent close to 3 hours at the top of the 5th belay. Luckily I had my Scott Sack which made the whole ordeal much more comfortable. Aaron lead the 6th and caught up with both team members at the top of the 6th. I cleaned the 6th and caught up to watch the 2nd leave just as I arrived.  We decided to bail at this point due to the fact it was 3PM and that the dark would be upon us in a couple hours.  I thought it would be better to get to the ground while we could still see.  We made it back to the ground safe and sound after re climbing the first pitch and freeing a stuck rope.  

This was Aarons first big wall overnight and I am glad I was there to share it with him.  We learned and ton and now are a little wiser about the so called "Valley Locals." We are already making plans to go back and finish the route in February.  Ton of fun!



JC w KC redux

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Re: Winter Ascent of The South Face
« Reply #5 on: January 20, 2015, 03:35:06 PM »
Thanks for sharing - looks cool.
Funny about the sack but I suppose that could work in a pinch :)
Bummer you had to share the wall with someone who obviously had lead in their pants.
One wheel shy of normal

mynameismud

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Re: Winter Ascent of The South Face
« Reply #6 on: January 20, 2015, 04:18:31 PM »
Bummer, but this Valley Local thing is part of the wall and long route game that has to be learned.  Cannot count the number of times I have encountered that with various partners.  More than once they have disappeared down below.  If they were true locals they would have continued up Southern Man.  Southern Man is a fun route and goes just as fast.  Perhaps a bit thinner up above but it does go hammerless and you can get down in time to BBQ. 
Here's to sweat in your eye

mungeclimber

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Re: Winter Ascent of The South Face
« Reply #7 on: January 20, 2015, 04:33:31 PM »
Hibatchi ascents are the best.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

clink

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Re: Winter Ascent of The South Face
« Reply #8 on: January 20, 2015, 05:14:04 PM »
Winter crowds in the Valley. Your getting to be a bit of a local there.
Thanks for sharing the pics.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

waldo

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Re: Winter Ascent of The South Face
« Reply #9 on: January 20, 2015, 05:19:16 PM »
Great work Aaron!  All done while we were playing in the mud.

Brad Young

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Re: Winter Ascent of The South Face
« Reply #10 on: January 20, 2015, 06:52:51 PM »

Aaron in a haul bag - there's a concept   ;D

But mostly you lost me with the 5:00 a.m. start - what happened to being civilized, man?

Next time throw shit at them if they get uppity - I don't know how many times I've played that game, but you gotta stand your ground.

mungeclimber

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Re: Winter Ascent of The South Face
« Reply #11 on: January 20, 2015, 11:40:46 PM »
no word filters on sh!t?

omg, this place is out of control?
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Aaron McDonald

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Re: Winter Ascent of The South Face
« Reply #12 on: January 21, 2015, 10:43:41 AM »
Thanks for the encouragement. Interesting to know that this type of thing happens.

mynameismud

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Re: Winter Ascent of The South Face
« Reply #13 on: January 21, 2015, 02:47:14 PM »
no word filters on sh!t?

omg, this place is out of control?

yeah, so?
Here's to sweat in your eye