California Climber Mag - Pinnacles article with pics

[mynameismud]

Well at least he was correct that it is the Hard Variation.  Has been for the last 20 years or whatever.  How does that song go, one out of 20 aint bad.


I do think Brad was a bit correct that JC was using a bit of hyperbole.  As much as it pains me to say this, JC is actually a pretty decent guy.  

[Brad Young]

I've talked with JC a few times in passing and his attitude has always been positive which makes his post so out of character.

On that point, the whole "I'm tempted to write a letter to the editor" thing made it clear to me that he was tongue in cheek. He knows it's a small one man operation and that no-one would care about such a letter (that is, he knows that a "letter" to Dean would be pointless).

Possibly another victim of the internet being pure black and white, no nuance?

Anyway I'll leave the issue to him from here on, if he reads this and if he wants to reply.

[F4?]

Lava is 5.9R...it just is. Maybe not a bad R, but there is some space and if you are not on your game (been 14yrs since it was easy) then it seems scary.. The late Brutus didn't make it and banged up his ankle... he and EM approach Mr Mud and I near the parking lot..."are you guys climbers?" as they are on their way or was it coming back?


Yes, a day in the High Peaks would make a nice article... piglet will be in it!

[mynameismud]

Hard Variation was given an R back in the day because when you pulled over the lip there was a loose flake and you had to do the first couple of moves on ball bearings.  If your belayer was inattentive you could potentially hit the ledge down below.  That clarifies the R on The Hard Variation.  Had to sleep on it.  It is very clean now so not so bad but when the books came out is was more heads up.