Author Topic: Formal Feedback on route 741 - "Easy Route 5.4R*"  (Read 35593 times)

mungeclimber

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Formal Feedback on route 741 - "Easy Route 5.4R*"
« on: January 25, 2015, 12:23:16 PM »
I've never know 5.4 to be dead vertical. Having just climbed this yesterday, and even using the tree, it feels harder than 5.4. Given that bark is slippery, for chimneying, an increase in the rating seems justified, perhaps bumped up to "Roper 4th class" difficulty.

Doing the route without the tree, is probably 5.8 or so. Downclimbing without the tree seems harder.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mynameismud

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Re: Formal Feedback on route 741 - "Easy Route 5.4R*"
« Reply #1 on: January 25, 2015, 01:19:50 PM »
Must be 3rd class.
Here's to sweat in your eye

Brad Young

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Re: Formal Feedback on route 741 - "Easy Route 5.4R*"
« Reply #2 on: January 25, 2015, 01:57:55 PM »
How's this for "formal:"

The Right Honorable Mister Mungeclimber Esquire:

Your heartfelt and intelligent views have been duly noted. Additionally, we appreciate the demeanor of your post. Thank you most sincerely for your concern.

Yours Very Truly,

The Forum

JC w KC redux

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Re: Formal Feedback on route 741 - "Easy Route 5.4R*"
« Reply #3 on: January 25, 2015, 02:09:33 PM »
That was my 41st onsight and I did a belayed downclimb at the insistence of my partner by leaving a screwlink on the best looking of the 3 old anchor bolts. I did not make much mention of the climbing in my log other than to say the chimneying between the tree and rock was tricky.
One wheel shy of normal

F4?

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Re: Formal Feedback on route 741 - "Easy Route 5.4R*"
« Reply #4 on: January 25, 2015, 05:33:16 PM »
Mungie ,it was 5.4+

Yer getting soft.

In the next guide, the rating should include the Tree/ no tree.

The bark needs to be re-enforced with a heavy grit sandpaper....Clink do you have any?
Or we could use Squiddo's old wall texture paint if he still has any.
I'm not worthy.

clink

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Re: Formal Feedback on route 741 - "Easy Route 5.4R*"
« Reply #5 on: January 25, 2015, 07:17:44 PM »
Fun moves but no pro, 5.8 without tree. Old softies used tree, which is in the way of my route idea.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

waldo

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Re: Formal Feedback on route 741 - "Easy Route 5.4R*"
« Reply #6 on: January 25, 2015, 07:39:18 PM »
A week of rain creates full conditions on the upper sectionof this route - lots of fun if you're a botanist.

mungeclimber

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Re: Formal Feedback on route 741 - "Easy Route 5.4R*"
« Reply #7 on: January 26, 2015, 09:21:41 AM »
yeah, near the top of the first part anyways. The upper easy section is clean, and really good rock. Nice location. Shame there aren't more routes on this formation.

Cook is right. The bolts on top could use some work.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

JC w KC redux

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Re: Formal Feedback on route 741 - "Easy Route 5.4R*"
« Reply #8 on: January 26, 2015, 09:29:39 AM »
yeah, near the top of the first part anyways. The upper easy section is clean, and really good rock. Nice location. Shame there aren't more routes on this formation.

Cook is right. The bolts on top could use some work.

I'll get out there and fix that sucker - that way I can climb it again too - cuz I ain't climbin' escape from Soledad :) - be fun to try on TR though...what?...did I actually say that?!
One wheel shy of normal

Brad Young

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Re: Formal Feedback on route 741 - "Easy Route 5.4R*"
« Reply #9 on: January 26, 2015, 09:35:34 AM »

...be fun to try on TR though...what?...did I actually say that?!


Holy sh#t, the world is ending. Or someone is impersonating J.C.

And now my "Ron Skelton moment:" I led that back in the mid '80s. It was still rated 5.9 then  ;D

mungeclimber

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Re: Formal Feedback on route 741 - "Easy Route 5.4R*"
« Reply #10 on: January 26, 2015, 11:09:35 AM »
I think TR'd it after Mud lead it. I seem to recall it being a little eye opening in difficulty for Mud, I think because some of the holds have come off.  No idea for sure. But it does give a good pump work out.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

clink

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Re: Formal Feedback on route 741 - "Easy Route 5.4R*"
« Reply #11 on: January 26, 2015, 01:16:17 PM »
Geoff led it right after it went up, with Sam "Muscle" Davidson spotting him, while I belayed.

Proud lead.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

mynameismud

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Re: Formal Feedback on route 741 - "Easy Route 5.4R*"
« Reply #12 on: January 26, 2015, 01:38:48 PM »
it being a little eye opening in difficulty for Mud

What?!  Heresy!
Here's to sweat in your eye

Brad Young

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Re: Formal Feedback on route 741 - "Easy Route 5.4R*"
« Reply #13 on: January 26, 2015, 01:44:57 PM »

What?!  Heresy!


Heresy hell, he slandered you. Defamation, plain and simple.

mynameismud

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Re: Formal Feedback on route 741 - "Easy Route 5.4R*"
« Reply #14 on: January 26, 2015, 01:50:12 PM »
I am going to Sue and sling mud from 90 paces!
oh, and in all the excitement.

DIE!
Here's to sweat in your eye

mungeclimber

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Re: Formal Feedback on route 741 - "Easy Route 5.4R*"
« Reply #15 on: January 26, 2015, 02:45:29 PM »
Not saying you didn't climb it, but you said something at the time indicating it was full value.

Do you disagree to the truth that it is a full value climb, and the moves getting to the first bolt aren't 'eye opening'?


Disagreement also being a clear indication of a 5150, in this case.

 
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mynameismud

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Re: Formal Feedback on route 741 - "Easy Route 5.4R*"
« Reply #16 on: January 26, 2015, 03:49:27 PM »
I stand on a fifth or my shoes or whatever else I can find since I have sensitive feet.

what is 5150?  Is that like MadDog?
Here's to sweat in your eye

mungeclimber

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Re: Formal Feedback on route 741 - "Easy Route 5.4R*"
« Reply #17 on: January 26, 2015, 04:28:46 PM »
lol

5150 Wine, brought to you by Schlitz!
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mynameismud

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Re: Formal Feedback on route 741 - "Easy Route 5.4R*"
« Reply #18 on: January 26, 2015, 07:38:37 PM »
Ack!
Here's to sweat in your eye