New Route Discussion: What is good/valid etc.

[mynameismud]

The Main Flumes wall had a bit or loose rock originally but has cleaned up a lot.


@Gavin
Here Comes the Judge was pretty loose when it first went up.  First time I did it there was constant rain of crud.  I have not done it nearly as many times as you have but have done it maybe a half dozen perhaps more if you includes escapes onto Broken Arrow.  Each time it seemed better.  Has probably been a decade since I have been on it.

P.S. You really need to lead Feeding Frenzy. You will like it. Keep in mind a couple hundred pounds of rock have come off it since the FA.

[Brad Young]

Keep in mind a couple hundred pounds of rock have come off it since the FA.

Yeah, and almost all of that came off on the day you and I each redpointed the second pitch. I doubt anyone's been on it since then 

[mynameismud]

Yep we did Redpoint together.  I am pretty sure I had been on it before but do not remember if I got it clean or hung or TR'd the thing.  That was a fun day.

On another note.  Here is a breakdown of number of routes put up by year.  EDIT:  Updated I missed a couple routes.  There were 11's years with no routes associated with them. The most recent was 1971 (unless I missed something).

Ranking   Year   Count
1   Unknown   262
2   1986   38
3   1989   37
4   1988   34
5   1990   29
6   1965   27
7   1991   26
8   2000   23
9   1999   19
10   1962   18
11   1973   18
12   1987   18
13   2003   18
14   2011   18
15   1984   17
16   2014   16
17   2001   15
18   1995   14
19   1961   13
20   1976   13
21   2004   13
22   1982   12
23   1992   12
24   2005   12
25   1983   11
26   1993   11
27   1996   11
28   1972   10
29   1978   10
30   2010   10
31   1963   9
32   1974   9
33   1998   9
34   2002   9
35   1980   8
36   1985   8
37   1960   7
38   1967   7
39   1977   7
40   1994   7
41   2006   7
42   2009   7
43   2012   7
44   2013   7
45   1951   6
46   1964   6
47   1970   6
48   1981   6
49   1997   6
50   1947   5
51   1975   5
52   1940   4
53   1956   4
54   1957   4
55   1968   4
56   2007   4
57   2008   4
58   1946   3
59   1949   3
60   1969   3
61   1934   2
62   1953   2
63   1959   2
64   1966   2
65   2015   2
66   1933   1
67   1935   1
68   1939   1
69   1950   1
70   1952   1
71   1955   1
72   1958   1
73   1979   1

[mynameismud]

Note: Not 100% correct.  Some routes had 90's so I put 90 some had early 90 etc.   But it gives a decent idea of activity by year.

[beanolar]

Kristin & I did the new flumes routes today, and they were SPECTACULAR. NOONE CRIED ABOUT RUNout. (We both cried about loose rocks). If they were any more sparsely bolted, I wouldve peed my pants and went home. Noobs like us need more routes like this! I pushed into a new grade! 5.7 Thanks guys for the new routes. Keep drilling (but please dont ask kristin to, it sounds horrible he he)

[mungeclimber]

Congrats on the new grade! Take that stoke and push onto the next level!

Do have a 5.8 in mind?

[clink]

Thanks for the breakdown Mud, 1965 and the second half of the eighties were big years.

50th anniversary for the 1965 routes. Coolest year ever.

 Is that the famous beanolar and the WORD renowned Kristin. It is said that rulers, even nations and gpa's rise and fall by her pen.

 Lisa and Aaron were the rock jocks for our little group. My daughter Laura had a great time in their company! Nice to meet Paul(the master of disguise)and Kyle.

 Climbed Sound Chaser yesterday, been 15 years or so. I climb it like a ballet dancer, unlike Aaron's style, a Viking with an axe, uttering fierce words in battle. My Pinns guide is MIA, so I don't know who put it up but have to say what a great route and thanks to the FA artists who followed the balance line of holds, making use of the whole stage.

[beanolar]

5.8 yikes! Maybe, if I can get to the third bolt without freaking out. (hint hint!)

Kristin is sick with power. She works across THREE universities this term. Someone's got to whip these kids into shape!


That knuckle route looked interesting. How far is the hike...

[CruxLuv]

Noobs like us need more routes like this! I pushed into a new grade! 5.7 Thanks guys for the new routes.

Amen and congrats!!   

[JC w KC redux]

5.8 yikes! Maybe, if I can get to the third bolt without freaking out. (hint hint!)

That knuckle route looked interesting. How far is the hike...

Not any farther than the High Peaks and not as strenuous.
I'll/we'll go out there with you if you like.
Several more routes to do yet and more rebolting work.
Cool location.

[beanolar]

Juan -- the pix looked nice! How many ticks? Kansas is afraid of ticks. She got colonized by nests of them while writing The Trails of Kansas guidebook. Note: They like to crawl into horrible, horrible places on your body.

So like, if it's not too much bushwhacking i'm down.

Y'all got any tips for "comfortable" 5.7-8s? Like, where I don't think i'm going to die or get disfigured? Slab, runout, and cantaloupes scare me

[mungeclimber]

The fruit stand on 152 is loaded with cantaloupes. Stay clear of there.

On West Side or East?

[JC w KC redux]

Y'all got any tips for "comfortable" 5.7-8s? Like, where I don't think i'm going to die or get disfigured? Slab, runout, and cantaloupes scare me

7's are a tough grade at Pinns - waldo and clink will enjoy it if you do Hunting Spiders
soft 8's - Tilting Terrace, Overboard
Cool Daze if your head is in it - sustained and steep but it's all there and good rests.
Warm up on Corona - do Beyond Destiny(need .5 or .75 and #3 camalot) - then Dos Equis (KC has).

F4 will suggest Piglet - that was my first 5.8 right after doing Burgundy Dome (my first 5.7)

[clink]

waldo and clink will enjoy it if you do Hunting Spiders Smiley

Not true. Bob and I were doing a recon, scoping out the buttress left of Lichen to Lead. HS was a variable, a connector, but hardly a route.


Hood of the Cobra 5.7, a committing move into a waterchute, stemming in a half pipe as the chute steepens and curls around you, then face to the top of the pinnacle.

Swallow Crack 5.7, will need to place gear. First time up place lots of protection, nuts and cams with a few long slings, the second will appreciate this as the crack diagonals. Bring a nut tool.

Sinbad, without the direct start is a fantastic climb overlooking the canyon, not sure of the rating.

Mug shot 5.7 feels airy, mostly well protected, just watch the swing back into the corner getting to the second bolt, after that your golden.

Portant which I believe was rated 5.5 when I first did it. Pinns climbing at it's best, my favorite route. A bit runout but if you can make the bouldery 5.7/8 entry move you will be fine. I recommend going up 40' to an intermediate belay on the left, it is good practice for multi-pitch route and cuts down on the rope drag. Gear may be placed in the lower gully.

That's what comes to mind outside of the closers. Good luck!

[beanolar]

West side, east side, I dont discriminate.

Thanks for the lists, Juan , Clink, I will check those out!

[CruxLuv]

Swallow Crack - I had the distinct pleasure of belaying Aaron on his first trad lead and it will likely be mine sooner than later.

Sinbad - don't start off the dirt - it's a 5.8.  Start at the third bolt for a fun, well-protected 5.6.

[Brad Young]

I moved my original post from here to the "2015 Objectives" thread. It belongs better there.

[JC w KC redux]

Not true. Bob and I were doing a recon, scoping out the buttress left of Lichen to Lead. HS was a variable, a connector, but hardly a route.

Swallow Crack 5.7, will need to place gear. First time up place lots of protection, nuts and cams with a few long slings, the second will appreciate this as the crack diagonals. Bring a nut tool.

Sinbad, without the direct start is a fantastic climb overlooking the canyon, not sure of the rating.

Mug shot 5.7 feels airy, mostly well protected, just watch the swing back into the corner getting to the second bolt, after that your golden.

Portant which I believe was rated 5.5 when I first did it. Pinns climbing at it's best, my favorite route. A bit runout but if you can make the bouldery 5.7/8 entry move you will be fine. I recommend going up 40' to an intermediate belay on the left, it is good practice for multi-pitch route and cuts down on the rope drag. Gear may be placed in the lower gully.

That's what comes to mind outside of the closers. Good luck!

I agree with Brad that this is a thread drift but still somewhat related.

Laura - don't listen to clink - he can't find his guide book and often forgets things of major importance!
The climbing on Hunting Spiders is similar to but a little spicier than Tilting Terrace.

The problem is - it is hard to find what I would consider "comfortable" 5.7's
I've climbed with you enough to know your comfort level and the fact that you did some of the new routes tells me that you may have gained some confidence - nicely done. You should get back out there and lead the rest of them.

Swallow Crack is 5.6 - for a mixed bolt/gear climb is good - you'll be grateful to clip the pins/bolt in between gear placements. Ordeal is better imo and would get you an 8.

Portent is also 5.6 but the start can be quite challenging. You're tall - so that will help. The nice thing is you can boulder around on it before committing. clink is right that you should stop at the first belay and bring your follower up. People that do it in one long pitch put their second at risk during the start - rope stretch will put a second back on the ground if they blow the opening moves - people have broken ankles on this one. All the holds are there but this climb is a head game and a Pinns classic. You may have already followed some or all of these Disco climbs. Entrance is a cool 7. I used a 4 and a 6 camalot. Think about it - all those climbs on the wall and only one 7. Welcome to the Machine is 7 but it is choked with PO.

Sinbad is also "only" 6 and you've probably already done it - it is steep for the grade and well protected. Good for your head.

I think you'd enjoy Mug Shot - but not sure it's "comfortable" even after we added a bolt in my runout. It is an interesting climb. I haven't led it with the added bolt. Nelkins said some of his friends led it recently and liked it. You could warm up on Where's Dave (I know you've led that one).

Redline is a cool 7 but you have to get up Alias Bandit Bench (a good eight) to get up there - although I have an easier way up there too if you're interested in checking it out. I could also show you a way to do it with one rope.  

[clink]

The prof. has spoken.


Aaron, thanks for coaching Laura up FS . She was telling Martha how nice that was to have you there.

BTW.I am so glad my parents moved us out of the Boston area when I was 7.

[JC w KC redux]

The prof. has spoken.

helmet, harness, shoes, rope...

or maybe that should be shoes, helmet, harness rope - acronym is shhr