Aid climbs that haven't been free climbed.

[clink]

Has Son of Dawn gone free? Is Rock Around the Clock possible free? Los Banditos or Bills Bad Bolts? Might be that there is a route no one has tried.
Now that Barry has moved out of the area, is anyone attempting freeing aid lines?

[squiddo]

Whatever happened to The Great Spectacular?

[kylequeener]

I've been poking around....


The problem with some of this climbs is the rock quality. On SOD the crux its a little broken and is probably going to break again. As it was last time I took a look at it I was two finger micro-crimping where a hold once was and then dynoing to a pretty good pinch cobble that is loose and will probably break anyways. I also would like to update the 1/4" bolt protecting that move.

Similar problems on all the other bolt ladders. Having just done Rock Around the Clock I think that's a big maybe given how much choss there is. There is basically a lot of junk thats going to break or has broken on all these bolt ladders and who knows what will become of them. Hopefully a new hold will appear where others have fallen out.

I've yet to get to the Great Spectacular. I've really wanted to be able to give that a good onsight attempt and I've bailed out of going up there solo to take a look at it. So maybe there will be a cold snap when the advisories are over and that can be done with. I've heard it looks good.

Also the short sections of aid followed by very moderate climbing makes those routes kinda lack luster. They climb kind of weird. In example the second crux pitch on Machete Direct you do one 5.12b move that's pretty bouldery and then you basically climb 5.6 bushwhacky choss to the anchors. Talk about contrast. If they were more sustained I think they would get more attention.

[F4?]

they could go free were a hold or 2 a-fixed to the crumbly section...

[clink]

 I have to work on finishing my sentences.

 It was a bid deal to get on the Regular Route, Mechanic's Delight and Machete Direct for us back in the day. The FFA of an established aid line at Pinns is pretty much a top shelf accomplishment. I get that more than a few holds may break , adversely affecting the difficulty is a deterrent to making an effort on some those routes.

 Zippity Do Da lost a couple nice holds I heard. This really was a disappointment to those that did the FA. It completely shut me down and was likely the hardest free route I ever pretended trying to climb.

 Adam had brought up for discussion a key hold on Ranger Bolts is not Long for this world.
 
 I'm sharing the computer with Carrie who has just started Cabrillo, so that's it for forums tonight. Good luck on your efforts kyqueener, keep us posted.

[F4?]

We should glue the broken holds back.....preserve the routes as they were on the FFA.

[kylequeener]

I was talking to Gavin about Zippity Do Da just the other day and he mentioned there may have been some damage. It seems to me that some of the harder routes are now much harder. I've yet to climb Zippity but I'll take Gavin's and your word that its seen some changes. Hopefully there is just enough to still make it climbable. I've also noticed that The Vigilante has changed during my years at Pinnacles. Is definitely seems like the bottom sequence keeps getting harder and in my opinion is pretty techy low end 5.12 and the route as a whole seems like a step up from Trial. Gorillas in the Moss is one route that has me befuddled. I spent a good chunk of an afternoon on it and couldn't seem to find a sequence through the first 10-15 feet and up higher near the end of the hard climbing it looked like some holds had broken. I wonder if the bottom section has had any changes since its establishment. It's typically uncommon for me to leave a route without at least finding a sequence that I think is climbable, especially one of that grade.

I'm on the move to finish up all the 5.12 routes as part of my goal to climb all the routes graded 5.12 or harder, so I'll have to chew through those three questionable routes to get there. After that stuff is completed to attention will turn to either new routes or free those hideous old bolt ladders.

Aslo F4, Would you do that for me? I can send you a list but it might be difficult to find the OG holds from the FFA! You should also reinforce the suspect hold on Ranger Bolts. That would be a disaster to lose. That is probably the best route we have.

[mungeclimber]

either new routes or free those hideous old bolt ladders

Stoke is high

[mynameismud]

The golf ball broke off Zippity Do Da, my understanding or at least what someone told me is, Sharma has done it since that hold broke off.

A hold has broken on the start of Gorillas but it has since gone free.  I can stick the move but cannot move out of it since I am too stretched out.  Takes more core than what I have.

Have you lead, Yo Mama?  I can get the upper part but not the bottom.  Small holds and long reaches.

[kylequeener]

The golf ball broke off Zippity Do Da, my understanding or at least what someone told me is, Sharma has done it since that hold broke off.

A hold has broken on the start of Gorillas but it has since gone free.  I can stick the move but cannot move out of it since I am too stretched out.  Takes more core than what I have.

Have you lead, Yo Mama?  I can get the upper part but not the bottom.  Small holds and long reaches.

The answer for anything with a questionable ascent in California is that Sharma has probably done it. HA!

Now that you describe that move of Gorillas it jogs my memory a bit and I remember something similar when I tried it last.

I've never really figured out Yo Mama... I'm not exactly sure what the intended start is, I obviously haven't looked at it very hard. I typically forget its existence but it does look pretty good. I also have a bit of fear of that route and Hot Lava Lucy. I was doing HLC a lot as a warm up or cool down route and randomly I came off in a weird way while moving off a sidepull with a deep back step and struck the starting block for Cantaloupe Death just barely missing hitting my head. The correct beta there is to sorta stem and not backstep. I did lower off and re-climb it right then but since then those haven't really be on my radar.

Out of everything left on my list I'm most excited about Yo Mama. (Pun!)

[mynameismud]

Yo Mama is weird.     

It can be done as a TR top half only or as a lead starting low off the boulder.  I think if you do it as a lead a spotter is a good idea.  As you know it is always good to have someone watching when you are doing Yo Mama, just on case you fall off.

[JC w KC redux]

Yo Mama is weird.     
As you know it is always good to have someone watching when you are doing Yo Mama, just in case you fall off.

Watch what you say about my Mama!
Just so you know - I ain't plannin' on doin' yo mama or anyone else's!

[F4?]

Aslo F4, Would you do that for me? I can send you a list but it might be difficult to find the OG holds from the FFA! You should also reinforce the suspect hold on Ranger Bolts. That would be a disaster to lose. That is probably the best route we have.

No problem. We can chip a doner rock to the original hold configuration. That or have a synthetic one made.

Verdict has gotten harder to. I used to cruz that thing. Now, nope shut down. Mike A has the flake in his yard that broke.

[waldo]

Wedge, regular route? Holmgren and I wasted quite a bit of time on that choss pile.

[mynameismud]

I think the Wedge might go by the right person.  I futzed around on it a bit but those bolts are scary. 

I think Triangle Skirt could go free.

[mungeclimber]

Triangle Skirt for sure.

[clink]

I think the Wedge might go by the right person.  I futzed around on it a bit but those bolts are scary. 

The not in their right mind, right kind of person? What are you saying?


 Futz

 Word Origin
verb (used without object)
1.
to pass time in idleness (usually followed by around).
noun
2.
a fool; simpleton.
Verb phrases
3.
futz (around) with, to handle or deal with, especially idly, reluctantly, or as a time-consuming task:
I spent all day futzing with those file folders.
Origin Expand
1930-19351930-35, Americanism; apparently a euphemism for fuck; perhaps blend of this word and putz   

I admit to googling futzed and then triangle skirt. More details and stories requested of a certain Mr. Mud.

Are these two climbs worthy rebolt projects?

[clink]

The answer for anything with a questionable ascent in California is that Sharma has probably done it. HA!

New topic; Free climbs that might have become aid climbs. Unless you are Sharma.

[mungeclimber]

New topic; Free climbs that might have become aid climbs. Unless you are Sharma.

Son of Dawn wall first pitch.

[kylequeener]

Son of Dawn wall first pitch.

First pitch is still 5.11, yay!