Climbing Objectives for 2015

[Brad Young]

Crux, good job ticking down the list on the Sister.

Beanolar, for a well protected first 5.8 lead, consider route 560.2 Abuela Cochinita (5.8 **) in the High Peaks (it is not closed for birds). There's a full description in the new routes sticky thread on this site.

[Brad Young]

Aaron,

We talked about the Joshua Tree route Cedric's Deep Sea Fish Market. That's the route I told you about where my shoelaces got caught in a carabiner on a cam (on an early attempt).

Now rated 5.10d, it's got two cruxes and a lot of hard crack. The first ascent authors called it 5.11 (as does Donny Reid, one of the best crack climbers I know). Here's the photo I told you about; of my hands right after I redpointed it (second try on it that day):




Damn, granite is sounding pretty good. Coming up soon.

[Aaron McDonald]

Aaron,

We talked about the Joshua Tree route Cedric's Deep Sea Fish Market. That's the route I told you about where my shoelaces got caught in a carabiner on a cam (on an early attempt).

Now rated 5.10d, it's got two cruxes and a lot of hard crack. The first ascent authors called it 5.11 (as does Donny Reid, one of the best crack climbers I know). Here's the photo I told you about; of my hands right after I redpointed it (second try on it that day):

Damn, granite is sounding pretty good. Coming up soon.

Brad,

Wow, your poor hands! With battle wounds like that, it must be a good route. I still cannot believe you were able to break your shoelace. Horrifying!

[Brad Young]

The word "horrifying" comes from old english. The root meaning is "it'll be a good story in ten years."     

[JC w KC redux]

I still cannot believe you were able to break your shoelace.

Brad also recently mastered untying his shoe lace mid lead - that was exciting too

[F4?]

I was told that tape was for bad technique???

Yeah, I use tons of it!

[Brad Young]

Brad also recently mastered untying his shoe lace mid lead - that was exciting too

At least the shoe stayed on my foot until I finished the climb   

And it's true that tape may be for bad technique, but some of us aren't spring chickens any more and skin gets thinner as it ages (that's my excuse and I'm sticking with it).

[JC w KC redux]

At least the shoe stayed on my foot until I finished the climb   

Amen to that brudda!

[clink]

Study this.

[Brad Young]

Oh the laces were tied properly (thanks for the refresher though).

I just need to not put one foot on the end of the other foot's shoelace.

[Brad Young]

Brian and I finished an FA here today. It's a bolt ladder in the ponderosa pine next to the deck. (Thanks to Clink for the inspiration!)

We thought it would be A1. Then Brian read that the 7/16th inch lag bolts I bought have a bearing weight of "325 pounds." So maybe it's close to A3? And then the wind started blowing and we thought "what if the whole tree falls down?" So we think it is A5.

Aren't we badasses?

We figure that if we make everyone who comes up here to climb lead the aid pitch and then jug the fixed line, we'll contribute to better conditioning overall, and that we'll also get some people trained to get up those elusive Pinns mixed aid/free routes.

Brian says "you're welcome."

[Brad Young]

(The true purpose is to get stronger/faster on aid and on jugs so we can each haul ass on walls we're each doing with Roger in the next months.)

[clink]

Then Brian read that the 7/16th inch lag bolts I bought have a bearing weight of "325 pounds."

 The ALCA at work. L is for lunatic. Great, what is the top anchor?

 The neighbors Harry,Shane and Josh, on which the "aid tree" straddles our property lies went climbing with Bob and myself yesterday. This was the first time climbing outside for them, they may be hooked. Goals for them are Portant, Swallow, Sinbad, Entrance, Stupendous Man, Ordeal, Wet Kiss and the NEF and A High Peaks circuit. Thanks Bob for being our morning rope gun. I finally was able to wear out Josh.

[Brad Young]

 The ALCA at work. L is for lunatic. Great, what is the top anchor?

Three of those 7/16 inch screws, equalized. I'm gonna look for some 3/4 inch screws tomorrow and replace a few of the smaller ones.

Feel free to bring a kid or two up here if/when you make it this summer. New kids really wear out quickly on crack climbs 

And that beautiful daughter who, from what VLY showed me on Bookface, had a great time climbing with an all woman, champion Pinnacles team yesterday. If I remember right, she really enjoyed that crack climb she tried last year.

[clink]

If I remember right, she really enjoyed that crack climb she tried last year.

Laura went with the EXCLUSIVE all ladies yesterday, Carrie was the crack climber. Rachel has bombed out lately. All three  are planning on Memorial day.

I girthed the tree for an anchor.

[Brad Young]

Laura went with the EXCLUSIVE all ladies yesterday, Carrie was the crack climber. Rachel has bombed out lately. All three  are planning on Memorial day.

I girthed the tree for an anchor.

OK, I remember that now. Memorial Day will be fun. And we'll get some climbing in too.

Girthing the tree sounds good too - although I am fairly fond of large diameter steel.

Munge just stopped by and I invited him for a lap on the new aid route. But he was pretty worked from climbing hard already today and begged off.

[CruxLuv]

Laura went with the EXCLUSIVE all ladies yesterday

She is such a sweetheart!

So...while it wasn't an objective - heck, I'm happy to be climbing anything right now - I broke into the 5.7's yesterday!!  Woohoo! 

Prolly also safe to say I led more than any other single day.  Booyah! 

Now I'm super stoked for MoM weekend and The Hills and Courtright...

BTW Brad - besides having the coolest name combo ever, Whitney is a really great person.  I'm sorry they won't be coming. 

[Brad Young]

BTW Brad - besides having the coolest name combo ever, Whitney is a really great person.  I'm sorry they won't be coming.

Yep, too bad her middle name isn't something like "Hood," or "Baker," huh?

BTW, Brian is pretty cool too. He climbed up here with us this weekend. They both hang out at our house on many summer weekends. Perhaps you should come up and stay/climb here just so you can get to know them better? 

And BTW, big congrats on recovering from the injury and getting back into it in a big way!!

[clink]

Yep, too bad her middle name isn't something like "Hood," or "Baker," huh?

 Did she ever get called St. Helens when throwing a temper tantrum? Probably not, she doesn't seem like the tantrum type.

 We on the other hand should have went with names like  Vesuvius, Krakatoa, Tambora, Mauna Loa, Eyjafjallajokull, Pelée, Thera, or Pinatubo for our girls.

Frequently Asked Questions About Eruption Precursors
Before a volcano erupts, magma must force its way upward through solid rock beneath a restless volcano. This process causes the ground above to heave and shake as rock is shoved aside or broken. At the same time, gases are released from the magma as it rises to shallower levels where the pressure is lower and the temperature of the ground increases. These phenomena--ground movements, earthquakes, and changes in heat output and volcanic gases--provide the clues that scientists use to recognize a restless volcano and anticipate what might happen next.

So much simpler and tamer than hormones and emotions. Last night there were a couple precursors, but no actual cursing.

 Thanks Crux for taking Laura, she had a great time.
Waldo, I have your sling and locker as well as the helmet you loaned the boys.

[clink]

I went on two guys only outings last week. Here is pics from the first one. Planning on many more of these in 2015. Johnny at Panther beach.