Button Head Rebolting Focus?

[mungeclimber]

Some 5/16 button heads can snap.

I've replaced one 3/8" buttonhead at Pinns. Hard to do.

Are there any 5/16ths still out there?

There's a thread on ST about the Gorge accident where cause of death was linked to a snapped button head.

[clink]

Scary.

I think the first bolt on the West Face/Machete Direct 5th pitch bolt ladder is an old one. The consequence of that bolt failing would be serious.

[Aaron McDonald]

Some 5/16 button heads can snap.
I've replaced on 3/8" buttonhead at Pinns. Hard to do.
Are there any 5/16ths still out there?
There's a thread on ST about the Gorge accident where cause of death was linked to a snapped button head.

Very scary.  I read the thread at SuperTaco.  It looks like this guy was aiding between bolts, one bolt at a time. Meaning he was only ever clipped into one bolt. Not good. 

Ranger Bolts has collection of every type of bolt and hanger ever placed at Pinns.

[mynameismud]

Ranger Bolts has collection of every type of bolt and hanger ever placed at Pinns.

Not sure if that is true since it has been rebolted.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Munge,

you replaced the 3/8" buttonhead at the start of the Bob and Phyllis Headwall?

I have seen some 3/8" buttonheads at the Pinnacles (one on top of the Hatchet which is not part of Rohrer's rappel anchor comes to mind) but can't think of any 5/16" buttonheads out there (which doesn't mean there aren't any!)

[Brad Young]

Bruce,

From personal experience, and as a rough guess, one fourth of the bolts Jack placed are 5/16th inch buttonheads. I don't know of anyone else who placed them at Pinns (and let's face it - he most commonly placed them from desperate stances). Look in the FA appendix for his routes and you're likely to find some.

[JC w KC redux]

Bruce,

From personal experience, and as a rough guess, one fourth of the bolts Jack placed are 5/16th inch buttonheads. I don't know of anyone else who placed them at Pinns (and let's face it - he most commonly placed them from desperate stances). Look in the FA appendix for his routes and you're likely to find some.

Beavis and Buttonhead comes to mind.

[clink]

Muttonhead.

[waldo]

Are there any 5/16ths still out there?

Jack and I placed a number of 5/16ths on lead when things got desperate - Condor Condiment, Piedras, some other places.  Our intention was to go back and replace them with good stars. We didn't get around to all of them.  There might still be a 5/16th on Condor.

[JC w KC redux]

Jack and I placed a number of 5/16ths on lead when things got desperate - Condor Condiment, Piedras, some other places. There might still be a 5/16th on Condor.

I intend to climb Condor Condiment again this summer and get some work done on it. Maybe we can work on it together.

[waldo]

I intend to climb Condor Condiment again this summer and get some work done on it. Maybe we can work on it together.

That's a good idea!  We should make a party out of it.  I think that 5/16th bolt is on the first pitch and a bit off line - probably that's why we neglected it. I seem to remember that there's one on Vin Ordinaire.  We replaced one 5/16th, but there might be another.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Beavis and Buttonhead comes to mind.

John,

actually that's the name Clint and I gave the route we found over by Teapot Dome.  If I remember correctly the bolts we replaced were 1/4" Rawl split shaft buttonheads(well, that's what my notes say from 2003).

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Bruce,

From personal experience, and as a rough guess, one fourth of the bolts Jack placed are 5/16th inch buttonheads. I don't know of anyone else who placed them at Pinns (and let's face it - he most commonly placed them from desperate stances). Look in the FA appendix for his routes and you're likely to find some.

Brad,

interesting!  I haven't done that many of Holmgren's routes and we tend to shy away from rebolting his routes because he used to epoxy in his Star Dryvins and those are very difficult to replace(we usually had to just chop them out).  We might have to start working on some of his routes.

[JC w KC redux]

John,
actually that's the name Clint and I gave the route we found over by Teapot Dome.  If I remember correctly the bolts we replaced were 1/4" Rawl split shaft buttonheads(well, that's what my notes say from 2003).

Fun trivia Bruce.
I wanted to go check that climb out the day I did Arch Pinnacle but couldn't get my partner on board.
I forgot to check the book before mentioning that name - it is listed as RB in 2003.

[Aaron McDonald]

That's a good idea!  We should make a party out of it.  I think that 5/16th bolt is on the first pitch and a bit off line - probably that's why we neglected it. I seem to remember that there's one on Vin Ordinaire.  We replaced one 5/16th, but there might be another.

Bob,

I have wanted to go back there with you and replace the bolts after my first adventure with you on that route. I would also like to lead the 10 variation.

[clink]

"Don't lean back" Waldo's reply to Aaron asking him about the quality of the anchor bolts on CC.

[Aaron McDonald]

"Don't lean back" Waldo's reply to Aaron asking him about the quality of the anchor bolts on CC.

HA! You remembered the story!