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Author Topic: Sons of Dawn  (Read 7898 times)

Chris

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« on: September 11, 2006, 04:07:35 PM »
Curious.. What's the condition of the bolt ladder on Sons of Dawn?



-C
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F4?

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« Reply #1 on: September 11, 2006, 04:26:49 PM »
It's in good condition. Clint replaced most of the bolts. He didn't replace the 1/2 way belay, so keep going to the belay after the overhang. You'll have some top-stepping. Don't clip every bolt on the 1st 80ft.



Ubber did it a few months back.



Oddly enough there was a fixed line on it as of 2 weeks ago. Go figure.



I've always wanted to keep going past P1.
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Chris

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« Reply #2 on: September 11, 2006, 04:31:52 PM »
Wierd.. August seems like a TOASTY time to be playing there..



I've itched to free it since seeing it, but at the moment I'm lookin for a quick fix to practice some solo aid tek.. Seems like the perfect spot for it..  8)



Pinns season approaches..



Thanks for the beta, Factor.



-C
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The Big

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« Reply #3 on: September 12, 2006, 01:07:48 PM »
If you get an early start you will have a couple of hours of shade.  Bring some water and a hat.  I think the bolt ladder will go free if someone is willing to work it.  I think it will clock in at hard 12 to mid 13.  The upper part of the route is good and most of those bolts are new.  Bring a big cam or to for the chimney.  The block belay has a retro bolt that some questionable person put in (uh, I know nuthin about it) so there is an actual belay until that is pulled.  When that bolt goes I would highly recommend not soloing it.  The block is a bit tenuous.  I started digging out behind it in order to sling it and tunnel behind it and started to get a bad feeling.  The first pitch can be aided with a stick click.  You can then tr the first pitch plus Robots of Dawn to the left.



Sons of the West is probably soloable also although when I did it the last pitch had not been completed.
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Chris

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« Reply #4 on: September 12, 2006, 06:02:36 PM »
awesome; good info, Mr Mud.  I hadn't really considered going to the top, but if I manage to start fast enough, I might just go for it.  How big if a cam are we talkin for the chimney?  Might have to see if I can talk munge into letting me try that silent partner.  :twisted:   You here munge?



-C
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Brad Young

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« Reply #5 on: September 12, 2006, 07:20:09 PM »
Chris, if you go PLEASE get hold of me first. I've done the route and don't wish to spend a whole day on it again, but I need to "field tweak" my working topo. I could get you a copy and you could (?) help me field check it? Thanks.
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Chris

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« Reply #6 on: September 13, 2006, 08:38:23 AM »
For sure Brad.  The next few weeks are looking crazy, but I hope to get on it early in pinn's season.



-C
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The Big

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« Reply #7 on: September 13, 2006, 10:08:04 AM »
I cannot remember exactly.  But an old 4.5 of 5 camalot some wires and a couple of mids.  I seem to remember one section where you just have to climb but it was not to bad.  If you cannot get the silent partner the soloist or a grigri work.  They both have some issues but they work.  The soloist is the best for top roping.
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Chris

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« Reply #8 on: September 13, 2006, 12:50:01 PM »
Yeah.. not planning on toproping.   Was hoping I could use the unmodified grigri for the aid soloing.  Figure it'll be cool with a backup.  If that doesnt work, there's always the clove hitch.  Might have to spend the bux on a solo-aid.  I've been told it's an order of magnitude better than the grigri.



-C
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The Big

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« Reply #9 on: September 13, 2006, 06:09:33 PM »
I have used both.  The solo aid is cool in that the rope does not slip through it as you get higher up on the pitch.  The down side is that you have to manually feed the rope through it.  I have used the gri-gri a fair amount without to many problems.  For A1, A2 stuff it is fine.  You just have to tape the gri-gri to the carabiner so that it does not get twisted up.  I really like the soloist.  If I can find the soloaid you can borrow to see what you think.  You borrow the gri-gri and the soloist also but I hate to part with the soloist for to long.
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Chris

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« Reply #10 on: September 13, 2006, 07:34:55 PM »
The soloist is that good?  I seem to hear a lotta hoohaw about how it doesnt lock up in certain falls, etc.  Didnt seem quite worth it to me.  Do you use it aiding at all?



-C
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The Big

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« Reply #11 on: September 14, 2006, 09:15:06 AM »
I use it aiding.  It is true the Soloist will not hold if you go upside down, so it is best to use backup knots to prevent a long one if that happens.  The Soloaid is bomber but a bit slower since you have to feed the rope through.  I have used both and use both.  If I want to go fast I use the Soloist.  If I am doing harder stuff the Soloaid.  The Silent Partner is best if you want to go fast, I do not think the Wife will let me buy one.  Something about her being my new partner.  The Silent Partner will also provide a dynamic belay which would be cool on sketchy stuff.
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The Big

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« Reply #12 on: September 14, 2006, 09:28:12 AM »
I really like the Soloist when I am going to free/aid up something then do a buch of laps on tr and swing around climb other routes near by the only bad thing is it is a pain in the ass to lower yourself out with it.  but for full lenght rope up top roping lot's o fun.  Lead the first pitch of Sons then tr it 12 times and swing over and do robots a few times.  Fast easy and a ripper pump.  Your food and water are only feet away.
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Chris

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« Reply #13 on: September 14, 2006, 09:59:08 AM »
Huh, rad.  Good call.  I've got a minitraxion that I've used for the same purpose.  The teeth take some getting used to, and I wouldnt use it on a good rope, but it works well, otherwise.
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mungeclimber

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« Reply #14 on: September 17, 2006, 11:13:36 PM »
bump



status update
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Chris

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« Reply #15 on: September 18, 2006, 01:03:23 PM »
bahaha, never got down there.. sounds like it was a bit of a circus!  :twisted:
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