The Ubermensch

[kylequeener]

Had a fun time revisiting Ubermensch yesterday in the rain.

Not sure how to embed it here directly, so clink the link, man!


https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10153159601974654&l=4447555994953144164

[mynameismud]

you made that look like a casual 11

[clink]

Super cool.

I could do that with my eyes closed, and only with them closed, asleep and dreaming. Casual as Usain Bolt running 100m. Thanks for sharing.

[Brad Young]

Um, actually, it looks like the video is rotated 90 degrees.

[kylequeener]

Um, actually, it looks like the video is rotated 90 degrees.

There is no fooling Brad. He's right. I tilted the entire monolith 90 degrees.

[Brad Young]

I tilted the entire monolith 90 degrees.

That actually happens every April 1st.

[Brad Young]

Seriously though - Dennis got it right. So smooth and strong that it looks 5.10.

I suspect that you've done clean ascents of every 5.14 and every 5.13 in the Park (not too many of those, so it's easy to think you've done them). How are you on the 5.12 and the 5.11 routes?

[JC w KC redux]

I stayed home yesterday, relaxed and onsighted an ubermunch - fork-tender medallions of pork tenderloin, gravy, mashed taters, steamed broccoli and bunny cake - yum!

[kylequeener]

Seriously though - Dennis got it right. So smooth and strong that it looks 5.10.

I suspect that you've done clean ascents of every 5.14 and every 5.13 in the Park (not too many of those, so it's easy to think you've done them). How are you on the 5.12 and the 5.11 routes?

Almost, I should be done by 2016. I'm ticking off 1-2 new 5.12's each day out on average. I have to re-climb Ranger Bolts and go to the tippy top. I originally did it and stopped at what would be the second set of anchors. Jim Thornburg dubbed that the "Yabo rolling in his grave variation". Go to the top or no redpoint. Then I have five 5.12's left and also West of the Sun, which I just haven't gotten very excited for. California's eternal sunshine has really made dry cold days a real rarity and you really need those for the hardest routes so it's made it hard to get on the route and get excited about it. Who knows, maybe someone will put up some more 5.12 or harder routes and I'll have more things to climb.   

Also, one new goal of mine is to climb Ranger Bolts, Lard Butt and Ubermensch in a day. 

[mynameismud]

Shouldn't you do Hot Lava Lucy as well?  Quadfecta.

[kylequeener]

Shouldn't you do Hot Lava Lucy as well?  Quadfecta.

I've never been a big fan of that route. It lacks luster. To me at least. If I was to make it four I think I may add Vigilante. It climbs amazingly, the holds are just cool, plus its kinda chossy. I think the real test will be if my skin holds together.

[Brad Young]

... Jim Thornburg dubbed that the "Yabo rolling in his grave variation". Go to the top or no redpoint....

One more thing that Jim and agree on (and yes, I did go to the top when I did the aid variation of Ranger Bolts - it's ugggllly    ).