Author Topic: **Abuela Cochinita**  (Read 36197 times)

mynameismud

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Re: **Abuela Cochinita**
« Reply #20 on: May 26, 2015, 06:12:55 PM »
I would never trust me but here it goes.
Little Javalina - this is a nice route with a good location.  Others have a better memory and can probably give a decent sanity check.
Rebecca's Sailing - I think this is a good choice and a pretty decent route.
Bits 'N' Pieces - Kind of like Rebecca's

I really think you can lead any of the 9's on the Flumes.  They are all there, just relax, breath and take full advantage of the rests.  Absolutely do not care how long the lead takes.  Keep your weight on your feet.  You can get no hands rests on those if you do the high step rest that we talked about.  Just pick one TR it three times then go.

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Here's to sweat in your eye

JC w KC redux

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Re: **Abuela Cochinita**
« Reply #21 on: May 26, 2015, 06:37:58 PM »
I really think you can lead any of the 9's on the Flumes.  They are all there, just relax, breath and take full advantage of the rests.  

I think this is excellent advice. I have only led about a dozen 9's in Pinns and 5 of them were on the Flumes (since B&P extension counts as a route). I also really like Twisted Sister for a slab route and it is well protected right where you need it.
Adam's Apple was my first 9 and the day we met Brad :) Short crux.
Do Cool Daze first and the 9's will probably feel easier - that sucker is pumpy and exhilarating but also has a couple of good rests.
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Brad Young

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Re: **Abuela Cochinita**
« Reply #22 on: May 26, 2015, 07:46:30 PM »
That's actually two bits of fantastic advice from two Pinnacles veterans. I'd add that I recall Little Javelina being a bit on the sustained side. Maybe don't make it your first 5.9 (instead make it your proudest).

CruxLuv

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Re: **Abuela Cochinita**
« Reply #23 on: May 26, 2015, 07:56:46 PM »
Do Cool Daze first and the 9's will probably feel easier -

Exactly what I was thinking.  Probably be my next 5.8. 
The "best" climber is the one having the most fun.

mungeclimber

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Re: **Abuela Cochinita**
« Reply #24 on: May 26, 2015, 10:05:29 PM »
About Face

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On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

CruxLuv

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Re: **Abuela Cochinita**
« Reply #25 on: May 27, 2015, 06:50:47 AM »
Really solid advice and interesting list of stuff I've never heard of -

Thanks for the high-step rest reminder, mud - gonna work on that in the gym.
The "best" climber is the one having the most fun.

JC w KC redux

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Re: **Abuela Cochinita**
« Reply #26 on: May 27, 2015, 07:18:24 AM »
interesting list of stuff I've never heard of -

Munge forgot to mention his recs are not in Pinns.
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CruxLuv

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Re: **Abuela Cochinita**
« Reply #27 on: May 27, 2015, 08:09:13 AM »
Munge forgot to mention his recs are not in Pinns.

Ya know...I had an inkling after writing that...  ;)
The "best" climber is the one having the most fun.

mj

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Re: **Abuela Cochinita**
« Reply #28 on: May 27, 2015, 04:38:56 PM »
I'll throw my votes in for the stuff on the Flumes, all very fun routes on good rock (and plenty of shade to boot!)

You all are giving me good ideas for a tick list next time I get out there!

CruxLuv

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Re: **Abuela Cochinita**
« Reply #29 on: May 27, 2015, 07:18:55 PM »
next time I get out there!

Hopefully sooner than later!   8)
The "best" climber is the one having the most fun.

Gavin

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Re: **Abuela Cochinita**
« Reply #30 on: June 14, 2015, 03:11:02 PM »
That's actually two bits of fantastic advice from two Pinnacles veterans. I'd add that I recall Little Javelina being a bit on the sustained side. Maybe don't make it your first 5.9 (instead make it your proudest).

I agree with Brad here: Little Javelina is  a great line (one of my favorite 5.9s at Pinnacles) but the first half or two-thirds of the route is pretty sustained. It is a long pitch, too. Regardless, it is a must-do 5.9 for you at some point!

F4?

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Re: **Abuela Cochinita**
« Reply #31 on: June 14, 2015, 05:36:31 PM »
Yup, I agree, Little Javelina is a damn great climb. And I agree, not a good 1st 5.9 (it's bolted safely, but you don't want to hand). Wet Kiss is a better one.

It needs some soft brushing, but the rock is solid.
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Aaron McDonald

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Re: **Abuela Cochinita**
« Reply #32 on: June 15, 2015, 07:33:50 AM »
Great job Lisa!  Your doing it now!