Author Topic: Accident on The Nose  (Read 3288 times)

CruxLuv

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Accident on The Nose
« on: May 28, 2015, 08:45:18 PM »
It can never be emphasized frequently or emphatically enough - check each other and yourselves.  It's all too easy to make it an afterthought or no thought at all sometimes.  Take nothing for granted.

I hate that these accidents serve as a stark reminder - but if tragedy can serve any purpose, saving another life would be a fine one.

For those who haven't seen it - this is from the ElCap Report: 

As mentioned above, I spoke with the two men, Cletis and Ryan, about the tragedy that befell their partner, Tyler, on the Nose yesterday.  They were all at Camp 6 when Tyler decided to rappel down the Camp 5, some 200+ feet, to retrieve gear that had been dropped.  Tyler tied into the end of the rope so as not to rap off it.  He prepared to go down and soon leaned back off the ledge.  He then fell all the way to the end of the rope and impacted the highest ledge at Camp 5.  When Ryan rappelled down to him he noticed that Tyler was not connected to his grigri or any other rappel device and thus free fell the length of the rope.  The end of the rope was a couple feet above the ledge and Ryan cut Tyler free, laid him on the ledge, and called YOSAR for help.

YOSAR responded quickly and decided to raise Tyler and the other climbers to the top of the mountain and chopper them down.  All of that was accomplished that evening.  I was wrong in yesterday’s report when I said I thought they would get the men off in the morning.  Sadly, the lesson here is to check and double check your set up whenever you commit yourself to the rope.  Also, all members of the team should look to see that anyone going on a rope is properly attached to it.  It is always a good policy to check, even if just an informal look, each other’s knots and attachments at every belay.. it only takes a moment to look and it could save a life.  No matter how much fun you are having a tragedy is just a careless moment away.  Our deepest sympathy and condolences go out to Tyler’s family and loved ones.  He was 22 years old.
The "best" climber is the one having the most fun.

mynameismud

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Re: Accident on The Nose
« Reply #1 on: May 29, 2015, 12:45:27 PM »
Sad to hear.  Condolences to his friends and family.
Here's to sweat in your eye

clink

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Re: Accident on The Nose
« Reply #2 on: May 29, 2015, 04:12:48 PM »
Tragic. We used to make all the climbers in Post 200 have "A second set of eyes check belay and rappel set-ups before weighting or untying." Just knowing that someone else is going to check your set up, may prompt you to double check it yourself.



Also, TIE a KNOT in the end of the rope if it's NOT tied it to you. Always.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

Brad Young

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Re: Accident on The Nose
« Reply #3 on: May 29, 2015, 04:57:02 PM »

...just knowing that someone else is going to check your set up, may prompt you to double check it yourself.


Very true.

mynameismud

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Re: Accident on The Nose
« Reply #4 on: May 30, 2015, 09:28:30 AM »
I did exactly what he did on two different occasions.  Both times I was fortunate  to grab the rope before hitting critical velocity.  One of those times was very very close.  Now I like to tug on the rope to make sure it pulls against something.  Keep your head up out there.
Here's to sweat in your eye