Dumb
Well...clink basically implied that I am among his idiot partners a while ago, so I may as well fess up.
As I continue to rack up new(established) routes, I seem to be getting worse rather than better.
This is however - no reflection on my rebolting work - all of that stuff is absolutely stellar
Lately I seem to be learning the hard way on The Frog.
3 weekends ago I led Ski Jump and missed the 3rd bolt.
Sadly, I had even pulled the topo out of my pocket to look at it when I couldn't see the 3rd bolt from the 2nd bolt.
Now what did I do on that particular climb?
Well...I think part of the error occurred when I had been out to The Frog on a previous occasion and spent some time scoping out various climbs in anticipation of a return trip. I noticed from the ground that one of the bolts was further to the right than what was indicated on the topo and made a note in my book. The problem was - I was looking at the 3rd bolt - thinking it was the second. Now the "corrected" topo showed the 2nd bolt over to the right - which meant that I should be looking for the 3rd bolt more or less straight up from there. Of course I saw nothing but a variety of tasty knobs. At that point I did what came naturally. The rock seemed unusually solid and there was a good sling knob to my left - so I slung it. Now with no bolt in sight - several ways looked tempting. I thought - "what would I do if I was working on a FA?" Well...I would follow the obvious line of course - choosing the juiciest holds and working to the next stance. Looking up I saw chunky goodness leading to a big lodestone - just ripe for stancing and so obvious...so up I went. I slung the big lodestone (solid and positive) and moved up onto it - ahhh - the perfect stance. Now...where is that pesky bolt? Looking around I was dismayed...how could someone pass up such a wondrous opportunity? I eventually started looking down and lo and behold - well down and to my right was the bolt. WTF?!!! I cast off into the easy runout. Now if someone is uncomfortable with runout - I would hesitate to recommend this climb. The bottom part is definitely the money section - too bad it's over so quickly. Yes - the upper section is easy, but you could still fall before the midway anchor - and if you do - you're history. Isn't that the norm for "easy" Pinns climbing though? Just call it another no fall route, climb and enjoy
I thought the section above the midway belay was pretty good too. I did have some difficulty locating the 2nd bolt.
It was further left than I expected - on the edge, if not actually in the water chute and that chute is very mossy - reminded me of Where the Sun Don't Shine. The hanger is also one of those camo things which imo should never be used as a lead bolt hanger - anchors okay - but not lead bolts. One nice thing about the climb is the whole route has been rebolted - albeit with non stainless hardware. The metal looks good and the installations are good too.
Dumber
Yesterday I went up to work on some bolts that I identified as needing replacement while enjoying Ski Jump.
I led Lonesome Dove to get to the top and also to check out the rebolt that had been reported for the route.
I was a bit peeved when I got to the first bolt - only to see a rusty old stud with a shiny stainless hanger.
Looking up there was more of the same.
Now again - if you don't like easy runout I would be hesitant to recommend this climb.
It is nearly as far to the first bolt as it is to the midway anchor (more like 2/3 of the way) on Ski Jump.
I evidently didn't know how to read the topo on this route either. When I showed it to Kat last night and asked her what she would or wouldn't do based on the topo - she was fairly quick to say - "I wouldn't clip the 3rd bolt - it's off route."
SPOILER ALERT?
Silly me - I remembered and read what the description said - climb straight up past three bolts and then up and left past three more bolts. Reading the natural line and looking at the rock quality and the available holds from bolt 3 was illuminating. I speculate that the FA party climbed up and placed the 3rd bolt and then realized that continuing up from there might not be the best way to proceed. They downclimbed below bolt 3 and went up and left to a perfect stance below bolt 4. If you were to move horizontally left from bolt 3 to bolt 4, bolt 4 would be almost at your feet - and last time I checked - it's difficult to drill a bolt between your feet! Bolt 2 is also in a sort-of alcove - so if you don't put an extended runner on it - you're hosed on rope drag. Insert Noal's t-shirt slogan here
Now if you think I've tainted your onsight of the climb there are still plenty of surprises awaiting you. For instance - watch out for a big lodestone in the easy lower part that completely lifted off from the rock when I tested it. It was too big to jettison. If you wait a few weeks I should have the climb rebolted.
