K.C. and J.C. Doing FAs On - Wait - GRANITE

[Brad Young]

So K.C., how was that 140 foot first pitch? Wasn't it your first gear first ascent? Wild isn't it, striking out on unknown terrain, hoping and expecting that it'll go? Helluva nice job. Pretty rock too. On a gorgeous day.

And who led the second pitch? Working on the crack climbing skills on lead (yeah, that's what we DO in the SUMMER)?

Psychopomp Corner 5.7 * (two pitches, 255 feet total, rap off left, 100 feet).

It's a little way below/on the way to Deadman Buttress (so when you google "psychopomp" you'll understand the context of the name).

And, technically, we found an old, two-quarter-inch bolt anchor at 175 feet, so we only did the FA of the whole 255 foot route (which included the second crux - the unknown first FA party didn't do that part of what we did).

[clink]

Psychopomp Corner 5.7 *

No circumstance?

Working on the crack climbing skills on lead (yeah, that's what we DO in the SUMMER)?

Ouch.

[Brad Young]

Either J.C. or K.C. ought to post a photo of one of them doing "the beached whale." It was a great move.

And K.C., how long did it take you to place that bolt on lead? The first bolt you've placed on lead in granite? Impeccable granite too, great bolt.

Psychopomp Slab 5.6 ** and 115 feet long (needs one more bolt, but we'd run out, so we ran it out).

Working on perfect rock slab climbing skills (yeah, that's also what we DO in the SUMMER!).

[Tuff Chik]

So K.C., how was that 140 foot first pitch? Wasn't it your first gear first ascent? Wild isn't it, striking out on unknown terrain, hoping and expecting that it'll go? Helluva nice job.

Thanks Brad.  Yes, my first gear FA and only my second gear lead on granite.  It was exciting and a little nerve wracking - I am pretty sure you guys could hear my big sigh of relief when I got to the belay ledge.  Thanks again for the encouragement and patience.

[JC w KC redux]

No circumstance?

clink - the circumstance was me pulling over a first bulge - then looking at a short section of steep crack and wanting to back off. I had a good cam in and was able to reach up to my limit to slot a nut. At that point it was either try it or lower off. Brad took over on belay while I proceeded to turn a 5.7 into a 5.9 - seems to be my special talent. My first beached whale maneuver over the top and I was set to do the rest.

In an attempt to redeem myself - I exhibited better form while running it out on our new slab route to finish the day. In addition to making me very proud by leading an unknown pitch on gear - KC placed her first bolt on lead with a Bosch.


KC leading into the unknown




JC’s beached whale maneuver





KC’s beached whale maneuver





JC runs it out for the coveted 2nd ascent of Psychopomp Slab

[Tuff Chik]

And K.C., how long did it take you to place that bolt on lead? The first bolt you've placed on lead in granite? Impeccable granite too, great bolt.

I think it took me longer to get the drill on my harness and move up to the second stance than to place the bolt.  A girl could get spoiled drilling with a Bosch. 

[Brad Young]

Those photos turned out nicely.

Psychopomp Corner got its coveted second ascent today (at least as to the whole length, including the second crux bulge). Aaron and I ran up it, enjoying it thoroughly. We confirmed it at 5.7, one star. I also got the first lead of Love Lies Bleeding, just up the hill.  This route is 5.11a *** (we'd previously thought two stars, but that thing is sweet, clean, fairly continuous and 90 feet long - three stars for sure).

Aaron got a bunch of routes in, including Toccata, a very good, sustained, long 5.10b. It was a damn good lead.

And, most importantly (at least from some perspectives) Charlotte and Halifax got to start and end the day in ice cold stream water.

[mungeclimber]

KC placed her first bolt on lead with a Bosch

With great battery life comes great responsibility.

[clink]

Parliamentary Debates FROM THE YEAR 1803 TO THE PRESENT TIME, T.C. Hansard.
The Quote is:" that the possession of great power necessarily implies great responsibility" page, 614
1227] HOUSE OF COMMONS, . Habeas Corput Suspension Bill. (1803-1817)

 I did think of Munge today when a BLL commercial came on. It was a pool party where you bring your own kiddie pool to soak in while drinking BLL. The commercial was promoting the new bottle design and the catchy slogan is Summer On.



 This is what hand drillers think of batteries,

[clink]

 Truth be told I worked both days this weekend and am jealous of all your climbing exploits, living vicariously through your posts. Great pics. Congrats guys and KC!

[JC w KC redux]

Truth be told I worked both days this weekend and am jealous of all your climbing exploits, living vicariously through your posts. Great pics. Congrats guys and KC!

thanks dude

Those photos turned out nicely.
Psychopomp Corner got its coveted second ascent today (at least as to the whole length, including the second crux bulge). Aaron and I ran up it, enjoying it thoroughly. We confirmed it at 5.7, one star. I also got the first lead of Love Lies Bleeding, just up the hill.  This route is 5.11a *** (we'd previously thought two stars, but that thing is sweet, clean, fairly continuous and 90 feet long - three stars for sure).
Aaron got a bunch of routes in, including Toccata, a very good, sustained, long 5.10b. It was a damn good lead.
And, most importantly (at least from some perspectives) Charlotte and Halifax got to start and end the day in ice cold stream water.

I figured you two would have a blast and it sounds like you did

[Brad Young]

Hey, I worked all THREE days this weekend. I worked on Friday, when I climbed Psychopomp with 30 pounds of bolting gear and chain. I especially worked on Saturday, when we did all burly routes on Bienvenidos Wall. And I worked today too, humping uphill for 20 minutes to reach perfect rock.

[clink]

humping uphill

 Suddenly the title to your biography came to me.

[mynameismud]

Nice job.


For Santa Cruzians that move is the banana slug move.

[Brad Young]

 Suddenly the title to your biography came to me.

Careful, this is a family web-site 

[JC w KC redux]

For Santa Cruzians that move is the banana slug move.

Sounds kinda bland - try adding salt

[Brad Young]

Well, let's be blunt: there ain't no banana slugs in the world that could be anywhere near that boney. Nope, it's not a banana slug move.

[Brad Young]

A psychopomp (from the Greek word ψυχοπομπός - psuchopompos, literally meaning the "guide of souls") is a creature, spirit, angel, or deity in many religions whose responsibility is to escort newly deceased souls from Earth to the afterlife. Their role is not to judge the deceased, but simply to provide safe passage.

[mungeclimber]

I always forget psyche is a greek root for soul/mind.



The greek myth that comes to my mind is Charon, ferryman of the dead, but apparently Hermes and Apollo are also psychopomps?  Trismegistos? 

[clink]

A psychopomp (from the Greek word ψυχοπομπός - psuchopompos, literally meaning the "guide of souls") is a creature, spirit, angel, or deity in many religions whose responsibility is to escort newly deceased souls from Earth to the afterlife. Their role is not to judge the deceased, but simply to provide safe passage.

Cool. But for you dear agnostic friends, If you are already dead, what is there to fear? Should have named it Recycle Bin.